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Does anyone know how to replace the read brake pad for ML320? Looks like the front and rear are different. I can't get the caliper off and remove the pads. I think there is some trick for the rear one. Anyone please help? Thank you
 

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http://www.benzworld.org/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=1185883&posts=6&hl=brake+pad+replacement


Hope this helps, and Good Luck,
 

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CURRENT: 2011 SL550 FORMER: C300, ML350, CLK550 Cabriolet, C240, ML320, 300TD
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The only thing substantially different between the front and rear brakes on the ML320 will be evident when (if) you remove the rotor. The rear rotor actually has an inner drum with brake shoes used for the parking brake. Sometimes that system’s adjustment wheel has to be turned to relieve pressure between the shoes and drum before the rotor can be pulled free from the hub – exactly like working on an old drum brake system. Of course that can’t happen until you remove the disc brake pads and caliper, which is the problem, right?

The rear caliper is mounted very similarly, if not exactly the same, as the fronts with a bolt. Or is it two bolts? Pardon my memory lapse, but I’ve worked on so many disc brake systems, I forget, but if you got the fronts off, the rears should be no problem. Here are some pointers.

After removing the road wheel, and before removing the caliper bolt(s), use something such as a large flat-blade screwdriver positioned strategically to pry the pads away from the rotor. Be careful not to damage anything (rotor, caliper or hoses). Of course if you are replacing the rotors, then they make an excellent place to pry. Otherwise, you should be able to find a good place between the pad and the caliper or the caliper and the hub or slides. You will be pushing the brake cylinder back into the caliper against the hydraulic fluid, so use a firm, steady pressure. I would recommend pushing the cylinder all the way in as far as you can go since you are going to need plenty of clearance for the new, thicker pads. If you don’t do it now, you will need a C-clamp to do it once you remove the caliper.

Once you have pushed the cylinder into the caliper, remove the bolt(s) holding the caliper to the hub. The pads are clipped to the caliper, so both pads and the caliper will come off the rotor in one assembly. The pads have notches that ride along the slides, and either the top or bottom will have to come out first. You may have to lift up on the caliper and pull the bottom out, letting the top pad notches pivot on the top slide (or vice-versa). Once you do this, you should be in good to replace the pads. If this does not do the trick, let me know and I’ll see what I can help you with.

- RODNEY
 

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'01 ML-320 Blk/Gry
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Dennis,
It wasn't easy to past the URL and unfortunately when I tried to fix it no luck either. So, can you paste in smaller font or something so that it will be easier to copy and paste.
thanks,
I am not searching for rotor pull out. Are there any other bolts than the hex (single bolt) on the surface. I understand it should come out with a mallet (rubber hammer) strike or two to the surface of the rotor from the rear. thanks, Vahid
 

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Not sure of where to release the Ssytem Adjustment Wheel

The only thing substantially different between the front and rear brakes on the ML320 will be evident when (if) you remove the rotor. The rear rotor actually has an inner drum with brake shoes used for the parking brake. Sometimes that system’s adjustment wheel has to be turned to relieve pressure between the shoes and drum before the rotor can be pulled free from the hub – exactly like working on an old drum brake system. Of course that can’t happen until you remove the disc brake pads and caliper, which is the problem, right?

The rear caliper is mounted very similarly, if not exactly the same, as the fronts with a bolt. Or is it two bolts? Pardon my memory lapse, but I’ve worked on so many disc brake systems, I forget, but if you got the fronts off, the rears should be no problem. Here are some pointers.

After removing the road wheel, and before removing the caliper bolt(s), use something such as a large flat-blade screwdriver positioned strategically to pry the pads away from the rotor. Be careful not to damage anything (rotor, caliper or hoses). Of course if you are replacing the rotors, then they make an excellent place to pry. Otherwise, you should be able to find a good place between the pad and the caliper or the caliper and the hub or slides. You will be pushing the brake cylinder back into the caliper against the hydraulic fluid, so use a firm, steady pressure. I would recommend pushing the cylinder all the way in as far as you can go since you are going to need plenty of clearance for the new, thicker pads. If you don’t do it now, you will need a C-clamp to do it once you remove the caliper.

Once you have pushed the cylinder into the caliper, remove the bolt(s) holding the caliper to the hub. The pads are clipped to the caliper, so both pads and the caliper will come off the rotor in one assembly. The pads have notches that ride along the slides, and either the top or bottom will have to come out first. You may have to lift up on the caliper and pull the bottom out, letting the top pad notches pivot on the top slide (or vice-versa). Once you do this, you should be in good to replace the pads. If this does not do the trick, let me know and I’ll see what I can help you with.

- RODNEY

Rodney, I am in the same situation that you describe here, but being very new to car repair on a Benz, I am not sure where to adjust the parking brake in order to releave the pressure on the rear rotors. I have a 1999 ML320 and have already replaced the front rotors and pads and just need to complete the job on the rears. I am aware of the adjustment mechanism under the truck near the drive shaft, but am not clear on how to use that to release the pressure. Any help or advice you can provide would be greatly appreciated.
 

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2000 ML320, 2003 Mini Cooper
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to garyc007

Check the link I posted above. There are some pictures of the inside of t he rear rotor. and you can understand the mechanism.
basically, release the parking brake first, and then try to turn the star shape rotate wheel through the hole as far as you can. Now rotate that wheel in reverse a little bit so that the brake is not engaged.
 

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ML 500 '02
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You should not need to loosen the bleed nipple to press the piston back in. After installation is complete, you should bleed the entire system. I usually use different fluid colors to indicate whether the system is entirely flushed and bled.
 

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2011 E350 , 1998 ml320
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If you loosen the bleed screw when you push the caliper in, you lessen the chances of pushing contaminants that have settled in the calipers back up into the rest of the system (proportioning valves, etc..)

That is actually best practice, even if you plan to flush afterward.
 
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