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2003 ml500, 2004 ml350
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When I first got my ML, the seats were stuck forward.. The kick panel fuse/relay box was trash.. The leak in the sun roof drain.. did it in.. Any signs of water damage?
Thanks bobby I pointed out that the contacts for the seat fuse/relay bracket could have corrosion but forgot to mention why.
 

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2003 ml500, 2004 ml350
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. I did connect a tester probe to fuse with key on pos 2, It did not beep for either one. The readings were 1.5v
Kohi

Am I missing something? You read the voltage at the fuse and got 1.5 volts? If so your issue is with the fuse box you should read 12.4 ish.
Have you pulled out the red bracket and looked over the contacts. Could be behind the box as well. (Best to disconnect battery when messing with the box)

To get the seat to a drivable position Just unplug the motor cable and apply voltage directly to the motor harness. As Witek said you can not do it incorrectly it works on reverse polarity one way it will go forward the other reverse. You just do not want the wires to touch that is why I suggested a fused source do not go directly to a battery especially the ML battery.
 

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2000 ml320
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11 Posts
Discussion Starter #23
Kohi

Am I missing something? You read the voltage at the fuse and got 1.5 volts? If so your issue is with the fuse box you should read 12.4 ish.
Have you pulled out the red bracket and looked over the contacts. Could be behind the box as well. (Best to disconnect battery when messing with the box)

To get the seat to a drivable position Just unplug the motor cable and apply voltage directly to the motor harness. As Witek said you can not do it incorrectly it works on reverse polarity one way it will go forward the other reverse. You just do not want the wires to touch that is why I suggested a fused source do not go directly to a battery especially the ML battery.
Hi Wallyo

yes it said 1.5v. I was using a power probe with key in pos 2, when i tested it. I have not tried pulling out red bracket. Did not see a lot of sign of corrosion but the fuses i pulled had some white color on terminal so I switched it out. now that you mentioned it, i did notice some rust on the screws near fuse panel and my sunroof was not working properly when I got it. I wonder if that is the cause.

I will have some time maybe this weekend but for sure on monday since it is presidents day. I will also try powering the seat to move. Can I leave all the other connectors attached ? I am worried, I am gonna fry something if I don't disconnect. I also read online that unplugging the fuses can sometimes make the warning light, check engine etc stay on and will have to take to dealer to fix. Is that true?
 

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2000 ml320
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11 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
When I first got my ML, the seats were stuck forward.. The kick panel fuse/relay box was trash.. The leak in the sun roof drain.. did it in.. Any signs of water damage?
now that you guys mention it , there might be some water damage. My sunroof was broken when I got the car. I will look again when I have an opportunity. What did you do to get it to work? Also the panel beside the kick panel, right under glove box is sagging like someone was possible working under it. I also found a metal tool I think it is used to loosen screws by the dome light , maybe the former owner tried to repair sunroof.
 

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2003 ml500, 2004 ml350
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Kohi reference the owners manual if you do not have one you can find PDF's on line but I believe the tool you are referring to is an emergency crank to open or close the sunroof manually. For the sunroof there is a drain tube that runs from the front corner, down the A pillar to the foot well and out this gets clog or cracks, water travels down and leaks in the car foot well area. I never have had to deal with a leak, it sounds like Bobby has..
There are many threads about drain leak.

I would for now just to get the seat in a better position, pull the fore aft motor plug from the controller and apply power directly to the motor via it's cable only.
 

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2003 C320 coupe, 2000 ML320
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665 Posts
The bus bar (12v hot always) feeds F10 (L seat) F11 (R seat) through K1 relay.. You can jump the bus directly to F10 and F11 by removing the relay.. Make the jump from the back side of the fuse box.. The blade connectors on the plug-in relays will fail if corroded.. Even if cleaned, the blade connectors will over heat and will continue to fail.. The whole box needs to be replaced OR.. the individual "take -offs" can be replaced.. From the back side, the take-offs are a snap-in mount.. I'm thinking there are a couple of torx holding the box to the frame.. It comes off pretty easy and you can flip it over to work on it without disconnecting anything..

PS.. You need to use a heavy gauge wire to make the jump.. I wouldn't use anything less than 12 gauge
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