[boardboy330]

So I bought another truck, in the other thread. Reason being, I blew the head gasket in my 2000 ML320. I was advised by the mechanic (not MB) that the last two MBs he did head gaskets on, a R&I of the head didn't work because the block was warped. Need to know if anyone else has the same issue. The motor has 215K miles on it. Should I replace the head or drop a used motor? If a used motor, which carries over without major overhaul. Thanks.

 

[Noodles]

I have not seen an M112 overheat to the point of warping the block. I have seen warped heads from overheating on M112 and M113 engines.
Either way rerworked heads or warped block it is a huge job even as a DIY.
A reasonable mileage used engine would probably more practical. If the other one has a block that is warped the whole engine is basically toast.

The only M112 and M113s I have seen that blew or seized were due to a lack of proper oil and in both cases it was owner error.

 

[43sqd]

Drop a used engine in.

 

[boardboy330]

Thanks fellas. I have a few used motors locally at a German Junk Yard...right around $700. Is a motor swap DIY on these? Last one I did was a Ford and the hardest part was lining up the transmission. I don't mind paying a shop, but I am trying to keep the cost down since I will be selling and it's only worth so much money.

Additionally, would it be a good idea to overhaul the used motor before install? IE, new head gaskets, new seals, etc? Or is that just not really needed. Seems like a good idea for peace of mind.

 

[Smokiesman]

Thanks fellas. I have a few used motors locally at a German Junk Yard...right around $700. Is a motor swap DIY on these? Last one I did was a Ford and the hardest part was lining up the transmission. I don't mind paying a shop, but I am trying to keep the cost down since I will be selling and it's only worth so much money.

Additionally, would it be a good idea to overhaul the used motor before install? IE, new head gaskets, new seals, etc? Or is that just not really needed. Seems like a good idea for peace of mind.

If your just going to turn around and sell it I would not bother to stuff a bunch of money into it !! If the motor runs and drives well your golden!


Smokie

 

[boardboy330]

If your just going to turn around and sell it I would not bother to stuff a bunch of money into it !! If the motor runs and drives well your golden!


Smokie

Have a buyer lined up. Good friend. His wife needs an SUV and she has been bugging him for a few months. Being a good friend, I want to make sure it's solid, even if I don't turn a profit. The truck has always been good to me, if I didn't blow the gasket, I would drive it til I did and replace the motor.

 

[mattml430]

Engine change is reasonably easy everything unplugs.
Once the radiator support panel ,radiator and condenser is out of the way you have good access to everything. I don't remember having any issues lining it up.

 

[Simon_E]

Additionally, would it be a good idea to overhaul the used motor before install? IE, new head gaskets, new seals, etc? Or is that just not really needed. Seems like a good idea for peace of mind.

One could reseal the lower and perhaps the upper oil pans with MB sealant. One could also replace the valve cover gaskets and reseal the breather covers. In addition, one could replace the rear main seal (unless it has already been done). All these are potential sources of oil leaks or seepage that can be remedied so much easier with the engine outside of the car.

In addition, one could (should) renew all four crankcase ventilation hoses with connectors. Coolant hoses are also a possibility. And then there is the belt tensioner, which one should replace it if was of the old style with metal pulley, and the idler pulley, which one should replace in any case.

I'm wondering, though, what caused the head gasket to fail on the previous engine.

 

[boardboy330]

The water pump shaft started leaking. Instead of towing it, I filled the truck with water and ran it 20 miles to the shop. At mile 19 the shaft gave way and immediately overheated the truck, which shut off at a stop light. I called a tow truck and had it towed the rest of the way. The water pump was replaced and I drove it home without issue. I shut it off and when I restarted it to leave, it had a misfire. Not sure when it blew, but my guess was then. I parked it and haven't touched it since.

I would replace all those parts, it makes sense. Plus an extra $200 in parts I doubt the guy would care since mine had 215K and wasn't leaking, he can at least expect 200K without worry of leaks.

 

[vvrjrlaw]

You know I have never had a problem buying from my friends but I always came to expect a little bit more (maybe it's honesty) because the person is my friend. Moral: if you aren't going to do it right and make sure it's all good don't sell it to your friend unless you don't care if you lose them.

 

[boardboy330]

You know I have never had a problem buying from my friends but I always came to expect a little bit more (maybe it's honesty) because the person is my friend. Moral: if you aren't going to do it right and make sure it's all good don't sell it to your friend unless you don't care if you lose them.

I agree, which is why I have made the choices I have so far. I'm not sure I am going to, but I am considering painting it as well just to be 100% sure there are 0 problems for him to fix. Going to wait and see how the motor swap goes.

 

[Simon_E]

The water pump shaft started leaking. Instead of towing it, I filled the truck with water and ran it 20 miles to the shop. At mile 19 the shaft gave way and immediately overheated the truck, which shut off at a stop light. I called a tow truck and had it towed the rest of the way. The water pump was replaced and I drove it home without issue. I shut it off and when I restarted it to leave, it had a misfire. Not sure when it blew, but my guess was then. I parked it and haven't touched it since.

Thank you for the description--that's unfortunate. But if you say that you "haven't touched it since" --i.e. since the misfire, I presume?--does that mean that somebody else has done so, e.g. your mechanic? Because I understood that you have unambiguously diagnosed a head gasket failure, right?

 

[boardboy330]

The oil looks like chocolate milk and white smoke at idle. It's a blown head gasket. No one else has touched it, diagnosed, or attempted to fix it, no.

 

[Simon_E]

OK, that sounds pretty clear. Good luck with the engine swap!

 

[art_arev]

Don't forget to clean the EGR tube on the "new" engine before installing it.

 

[43sqd]

boardboy, I'm a little confused here.

The way I am reading this thread and the thread you started on the P/S issue, is that your old ML (this thread) has a blown engine.

Then you purchased another ML with a damaged P/S mounting (bastardized plate welding) and you are looking for help in that regards.

What ML, old or new, are you trying to salvage?

Why are you buying a used timing case cover from a junk yard when you could swap the timing case cover from the blown eng. to the damaged one?

Why are you paying to have the blown eng. heads resurfaced, etc. and saving them when there will never be a time that you will ever use them, since the R&I of them is a monumental task.

Maybe I'm not following everything correctly, so please explain.

 

[boardboy330]

Yes, Art - forgot about that but I will do it.

43sqd...

Yes, you read that right. The engine cover and lack of specifically looking for that plate got me to buy the truck without knowing the problems. I could use the plate, but it's not right and it will chew up belts.

The 2000 has a blown head gasket - it will have a new motor dropped in within the week (I hope). The 1999 has a messed up mount and will have parts pulled from the 2000 to use. I wasn't sure if it would swap, but figured I would pull it off and see. Worst case, I had to buy a used part.

I understand about R&I on the engine for the heads, but I read that about a few things and it doesn't seem to always be the case. I may be missing something for the heads, so that would be why. But at some point this may happen again and I will need parts. I was thinking if I kept certain parts I could fix anything that happened.

This is a screwed up situation I am trying to not walk away from. I hate quitting.

 

[43sqd]

Concerning the Timing Case cover, you should be aware that there are different versions according to engine number (not the same as vin #).

So I would be very sure that the used part you are buying or if you use the one from the 2000 ML, will fit.

 

[boardboy330]

Appreciate the info. I figured something like this was the case. Do you know specifically what to look for with the parts to tell them apart?

 

[43sqd]

Appreciate the info. I figured something like this was the case. Do you know specifically what to look for with the parts to tell them apart?

That would be hard to say but if the replacement cover came from a 1998-2000 ML, I don't think you should have a problem.