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94 S420 RIP 2/8/13 02 ML55AMG, 06 CLS55AMG, 89 Mas. 228, 84 Por. 911 Carrera, 93 Toyota t.t. Supra
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It either wasn’t inserted correctly or it broke because when mine broke the selector indicated the vehicle in gear and the shifter moved as normal but the vehicle would not move.
 

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ML 320. 2000. 2002
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14 Posts
okay guys the thing is I am not stuck on stupid. With that said lets move on. It isn't as simple as you guys think. And either am I. I have been into the pan so much that I am starting to strip threads and bolt heads. The only thing I dont understand is what a person of years doing this could tell in five minutes; I take longer because I dont have alot of these to know what the gauges are telling me whats going on.
I have three complete Valve body assemblies out of the same class of ML. I have 2 extra sets of valves that I have cleaned and ohmed and pressure checked. Upon assembly I ohm check thru pins to valves for continuity and proper resistance. Take assy. and install to trans. Making sure that manual slide valve is in slot and functions. new fliter and O rings. install conector and pan. REplace fluid that i drained out minus half litter to remove any crap and replace with new fluid. Start and warm up to temp. check fluid and top off. Put it into gear and it still does the same thing. Now i troubleshoot alot of things and the odds of two of the same parts being bad are almost infinite. And I have 3 or 4 of each.
Now the MB II scanner readings When I check the shift solonoids I read the modulating and pressure readings in AMPS and mbar pressure. But I dont read any shift solenoids. And there is no MIL and no fault codes.
Now the next thing I need to know is that I still have the N72 module out and I havent set the radio code yet and can to seats and radio, cd changer,compuss, ect. dont read with commo issues. These are minor systems. Would these cause a problem over the CAN system?
Known problems ive corrected so far were: Transfer case motor Bushings; ESP Motor Bushings. But tester reads desired Gear; Selected Gear; CORRECTLY and on dash and mechanical shifting (adj. Correctly). But ACTUAL GEAR is incorrect. Park =p; Rev.=p;Neu.=N; and Drive = N. So, no drive and no +or - shift. Not in Emergency Running Mode. No trans, noise. Oil pan had no metal shavings in it.
The only thing that changed once was it went into Limp Home Mode with a P753 code saying solenoid 1 was shorted to ground. Drained and replaced. Went back to problem. Any ideals?
 

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Premium Member
ML55 2003, ML55 2002, ML63 2007
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4,110 Posts
You have spent so much on parts........Get a proper pro level scanner like Autel MD802 Elite All systems or a Foxwell NT644 or SDS.
Icarsoft doesn't do what it claims, hence you are not getting any codes.
 

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ML 320. 2000. 2002
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14 Posts
ok a little more but not fixed yet. after reviewing the stored faults in my scanner i did retrieve codes. The dreaded P2600 and P2602. I found a little info on the 126 thread. Also a few other minors; B1980; P1099; B1201 thru B1206. So I started to check body electrical grounds and charging systems for loose and corroded wiring. Also I started to follow a chart of information offered in artical. Battery Voltage not running=12.86 at batt. charging = 13.82. GND to F22 Hot=13.79v. Next I will test voltage again for solenoid voltage in the proper range. Will post results later. Ps. Also went thru F1 and replaced or cleaned all relay contact points to make shure they were clean and not oxidized.
 

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ML 320. 2000. 2002
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14 Posts
The follow up. No P2600 or P2602. They cleared. With key on Battery voltage good at solenoids and input voltage at proper level. Start it up...No joy! So , Let me see if this will work next. The question I put to you is this. I dont think it is the problem I've been chasing. I think I need to check other areas of car. This is like a ghost.
Normally I would have checked the tranny for hydrolic pressure. But MB made it with out pressure checking ports. So, my question to you is this. Since I can't get to a port, can i remove the right side banjo bolt and take hose and put in a bucket and do a flow test and measure volume verses pressure? At least that way I know the oil punp is producing and I can determin that the trans. is shot if it isn't pumping? And how much flow vs time' equals/ volume is a starting point I can use?
Or do you have any other things I can do to resolve this issue? I am getting tired and am using to many brain cells. May just scrap it out and sell parts on E-BAY!
 

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ML 320. 2000. 2002
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14 Posts
So Today I removed the return line at the transmission and started the car. Results; Not a drop of fluid came out! What a Bummer! So next question. Is; Do you think that the trans. is worn out and needs replacing? Or can the Cooler and lines just plugged and could be blown out and fixed? Or do you have anoyher idea that will work without pulling the transmittion.
 

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Coupe/Convertible Forums Moderator
CURRENT: 2011 SL550, 2011 C300 FORMER: ML350, CLK550 Cabriolet, C240, ML320, 300TD
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Just doing some basic diagnostics...

The torque converter it bolted to the flywheel (a.k.a. flex plate). When the engine is running, the torque converter is rotating. The outer shaft of the torque converter, which is welded to the torque converter housing, operates the fluid pump. So, even if the torque converter was totally blown, as long as it's still attached to the flywheel, it will operate the fluid pump.

Now, assuming the fluid pump is not toast, you should have fluid pressure. If the pump were broken, you have all sort of horrible metal-on-metal noises. Assuming that you don't, then my guess is that the pump is operating.

Both the intake and output lines for the transmission cooler are connected to the bell housing. There are ducts in it that lead directly to the fluid pump. If there is a blockage, it's either in there or in the lines.

I think what I'd do is disconnect both intake and output cooling lines at the transmission, and use compressed air to verify that the cooling system is clear. If it is, then it sounds like you're going to need to pull the transmission to inspect the pump and the bell housing fluid ducts.
 

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ML 320. 2000. 2002
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14 Posts
Thank you sir for a reply that will help me to move thru this easier than it would be without your great info. Just to say that at this point that I have been into the oil pan so many tines that I would have known if metal shavings had been there. I thank you for not asking me if that were so. But here's what I know from the initial inspection of the problem. At the beginning of this task, the first tear down and draining and inspection of the fluid and pan was this. The oil was old and unchanged. Almost black and possibally burnt. Can't say foreshure. I don't have the ability to judge this. But, I know what to look for visually inside the pan and on the magnet to make a call for action. Only that thin light grey sludge in pan and no shavings of metal. So I went on course of action; conductor plate; pilot bushing; valves; fluid change; and gasket. So a couple hundred bucks into it and fixed. Right? NO!!! I was screwed! So over the next year I put a whole lot more parts into it. Like throwing Darts; I figured it to be electrical. So one at a time I went to yard and purchased any and all parts that had to do or may do and replaced them all. More than once! I just couldn't believe that I couldn't fix it. I've never failed at anything to do with fixing things. I have read all forums and followed any and all leads towards a end and still the same results. NO MOVEMENT IN REVERSE OR DRIVE! Reverse = Park going down and DRIVE =Neutral. But never DRIVE. Sounds electrical, But I just couldn't make it move! So' without a hydrolic port to test pressure I decided to remove the return hose and see what happened. Nothing, no fluid at all coming out at idle. The only fluid was some in the hose that ran out when I hooked up the extention hose for the test. I thought that it should come out like a stream and pump out a volume. Right? So yes you are right about the oil pump being attached to flex plate. So, let me get this right. When running' there should be some kind of pressure in the line? I can agree with that, Thats what I needed to know inorder to know. So, moving on a little further. Tell me the role of the Torq Converter in the oil distrobution and the car moving at idle and off the line. And what am I to do to know if it is bad and if I need to replace it. Please! Thanks. I'll repost after I try to blow out lines.
 

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Coupe/Convertible Forums Moderator
CURRENT: 2011 SL550, 2011 C300 FORMER: ML350, CLK550 Cabriolet, C240, ML320, 300TD
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So, let me get this right. When running' there should be some kind of pressure in the line? I can agree with that, Thats what I needed to know inorder to know. So, moving on a little further. Tell me the role of the Torq Converter in the oil distrobution and the car moving at idle and off the line. And what am I to do to know if it is bad and if I need to replace it.
Yes, with the engine running, the fluid should be under pressure. It's not a huge amount, but enough so that if you detach the cooling hose from the right side of the transmission, fluid should flow out of it (i.e. out of the hose - not out of the port in the transmission).

The torque converter itself does not create the pressure for the flow of fluid through the transmission. That is the job of the pump. The pump is mounted on the very front of the transmission. It is operated by the rotation of the housing of the torque converter.

Many people do not realize the the entire outer housing of the torque converter, which is bolted to the flywheel, rotates when the engine is running. The torque converter has two output shafts. The outer output shaft is just integrated into its housing, so if the engine is running, this shaft is rotating. That is what mated to the fluid pump and thus why the pump is operating if the engine is running. So, basically, you have the engine crankshaft that is rotating, the flywheel is bolted directly to the crankshaft, the torque converter is bolted directly to the flywheel, and the converter's outer output shaft is inserted directly into the fluid pump: engine rotates = fluid pump operating.

Inside the torque converter is what looks like two set of fan blades or turbines facing each other. There is a set of blades attached to the housing itself that are rotating when the engine is running. Another set is attached to the inner output shaft. That inner shaft is what drives the transmission gears.

These blades do not physically touch, but are facing each other in a bath of transmission fluid. This allows the engine-side blades to rotate with the engine running, but the transmission-side blades to remain stationary, such as at idle, in drive, with your foot on the brake pedal. Once you release the brakes, there is enough turbulence in the fluid between the blades to allow the transmission-side blades to begin rotating with the engine-side blades. As engine speed increases, the turbulence become enough so that you can move over 6,000lbs of truck and contents quickly down the road.

Note that there is also a lock-up feature that engages a clutch inside the torque converter that does create a solid connection from the engine crankshaft, through the torque converter and to the transmission drive shaft. This does not engage until a certain road speed, so it is not important to the discussion, but I thought I mention it for clarity.

NO MOVEMENT IN REVERSE OR DRIVE! Reverse = Park going down and DRIVE =Neutral. But never DRIVE.
Now, having said all that, what actually makes the transmission operate are servos on the conductor plate that engage specific paths for the fluid to follow. Those paths provide pressure to "move things" inside the transmission. Mostly, they operate clutch packs that either force a gear to rotate with the transmission drive shaft or disengage and allow it to freewheel. By doing this, you get neutral, 5 forward drive gears, and reverse. Park is engaged by a physical pawl that engages teeth on a gear at the rear of the transmission, at its final output to the propeller shaft.

The gearshift selector does move a physical linkage that operates a lever inside the transmission, on the conductor plate, to select on of four modes: park, reverse, neutral and drive. Except for physically engaging the parking pawl, everything else that lever does is electronic. Once the linkage has selected "drive", there is no more physical input from the gearshift to the transmission. Even on pre-MY2000 cars that had the zig-zag 4-3-2-1 patter instead of the +/- TouchShift, that is all just electronics inside the gearshift assembly. Note that in sort of a "belt and suspenders" approach, the car's electronics have two ways to determine the selected gear: the TCU reads the position of the lever on the conductor plate, but also the position of the gearshift itself.

So, if your car is physically in park (i.e. the parking pawl is engaged) when the gearshift is in reverse, then this is a physical problem. Remember, park is the only physical link between the gearshift and the gears inside the transmission. The parking pawl cannot be engaged electronically. Whenever there is a discrepancy between the TCU's reading of the lever on the conductor plate vs. the gearshift itself, it locks down everything.

Since you removed the conductor plate, it is possible that you did not get the lever properly connected to the linkage or maybe the new conductor plate's internal lever is slightly "off" from the originals, so you may need to adjust the linkage.

I know I took a long way to get to this idea, but i wanted to answer your questions.
 

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1999 E430; 2005 ML500
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I don’t think there’s any point in further work until you can confirm fluid pressure. A quick check would be to remove the supply line to the cooler and check for fluid there. It should be enough pressure to dump several quarts in 30 seconds, and make a disaster of your garage if it isn’t aimed into a bucket.
 

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CLK 320 CDI w209
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Dear all,

Sorry to dig up that topic but I am facing to the same issue.

I change the valve body and made a quick clean-up and now car won't move... All the metal balls are in the right place and updated solenoids.

I do not understand what is happening...
 

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2000 ML55 sold😢 2013 ML500,😁 2015 C250 estate wagon, 1927 Dodge 4 sedan, 1929 Dodge
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As an information my gearbox is a 7G
Your in the wrong forum but have you cleared any codes that were stored. You’ll need a scanner that can read transmission codes. The 163 doesn’t have the 7G trans.
 
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