[neapolitan]

My car starts up but doesn't want to move out of place. Reverse does not work. Drive does not work. Shifting gears (left or right) does not work.

I'm being told this is a problem with transmission. Before I panic and look for a new vehicle, I'm hoping my car only needs the transmission fluid added or replaced.

So, my broker asked me, "Are you out of transmission fluid?". I answer, "I don't know". I looked for a transmission dipstick, but can't find one.

I've read online that there is no way to check if transmission fluid has run out.

2000 ML320 Mercedes Benz: Where is the transmission fluid dipstick

Assuming that I am out of transmission fluid, what is the next course of action? This article leads me to believe there is a temporary and immediate solution by adding transmission fluid myself:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w163-m-class/1461205-how-add-transmission-fluid.html

Any other suggestions about what I should do next?

 

[fabbrisd1]

When you say "drive and reverse doesn't work" - do you mean your shifter doen't move - or do you mean the shifter moves but in those positions nothing happens ?

 

[neapolitan]

Sorry for not being clear. The shifter moves from Park to Reverse to Neutral to Drive and vice versa; however, noting happens when in Reverse or Drive.

When you say "drive and reverse doesn't work" - do you mean your shifter doen't move - or do you mean the shifter moves but in those positions nothing happens ?

 

[megadamp]

Neapolitan you are back again. Nice to here from you. You got me a little flustered last time. Sorry to here about your problem. Sounds like a conductor plate issue, but you need to get codes read to confirm this. Have you seen any leaks on your garage floor. You was a bad boy last time and let things leak?, without sorting things like power steering fluid etc.

 

[neapolitan]

Your memory is very, very good. Yes, I still have the power steering leak; just figured it was more economically beneficial to just refill every week or so.

There are leaks, but my assumption was (is) that it's power steering fluid. Someone told me transmission fluid looks pink. I don't think that's leaking.

I know what you are thinking... bad approach. But the car was doing alright until today so yeah, at the point where I'll have to inevitably spend some money.

Thanks for all your help last time, the radiator has been fine every since that last experience (well, I think).

So, what does the doctor recommend this time around?

Neapolitan you are back again. Nice to here from you. You got me a little flustered last time. Sorry to here about your problem. Sounds like a conductor plate issue, but you need to get codes read to confirm this. Have you seen any leaks on your garage floor. You was a bad boy last time and let things leak?, without sorting things like power steering fluid etc.

 

[megadamp]

Your memory is very, very good. Yes, I still have the power steering leak; just figured it was more economically beneficial to just refill every week or so.

I know what you are thinking... bad approach. But the car was doing alright until today so yeah, at the point where I'll have to inevitably spend some money.

Thanks for all your help last time, the radiator has been fine every since that last experience (well, I think).

So, what does the doctor recommend this time around?

I'm no expert nea, and yes i do have a very good memory for detail. As to your question not sure. You need to get the codes read by a pro. The shifter is not being allowed to tell the autobox to go to first gear by the computer, or the conductor plate has malfunctioned and has thrown a code with the same result. 43 or witek are the best people to ask with this one, they will tell you to get the codes from a pro scanner. So you will need to call someone out or go to an indie. Sorry Neo you did make me laugh last time, never to forget.

 

[43sqd]

A few things here:

1. Can't believe that you relied on Yahoo Answers to give you the right answer instead of posting on this forum. Dip stick is available on ebay.

Mercedes Benz Transmission Dipstick 97 & LATER with 722.6 Tranny | eBay

2. It's also hard to believe you have ignored a power steering leak instead of repairing it.

3. If you have lost all of your transmission fluid, have you crawled under the truck to see if the underside is covered in oil?

4. With the key on and with a test light, check fuse numbers 16 and 22 in the underhood fuse/relay box.

 

[megadamp]

Whats happening neo. Any visible leaks under your car?.

 

[cmitch]

This does not sound like a conductor plate issue. It'll usually drive but in limp mode. But all is conjecture unless you check the things 43 told you.

 

[neapolitan]

1. Ordered the dipstick today so should have it later this week.

2. I took my car to one mechanic who said the entire thing needs to be replaced and it would be like 1K. I'll have someone else evaluate with hopes it is an affordable fix.

3. Everything under the car is covered with oil, but I am not sure if it's transmission fluid.

4. Will check the fuse tomorrow and let you know.

The car was working as expected last night when I tested it (after a few hours of rest). Maybe I'll be able to drive to the mechanic; but I'm trying to get someone to come over to check things out.

Will report back to you guys tomorrow.

A few things here:

1. Can't believe that you relied on Yahoo Answers to give you the right answer instead of posting on this forum. Dip stick is available on ebay.

Mercedes Benz Transmission Dipstick 97 & LATER with 722.6 Tranny | eBay

2. It's also hard to believe you have ignored a power steering leak instead of repairing it.

3. If you have lost all of your transmission fluid, have you crawled under the truck to see if the underside is covered in oil?

4. With the key on and with a test light, check fuse numbers 16 and 22 in the underhood fuse/relay box.

 

[cmitch]

Do I understand you correctly that it drives now after rest? Don't drive the truck! I would have it towed since you don't have a dipstick to check level or leave it parked until you do have it. Driving it low on fluid can damage it beyond repair. The oil you see may be the power steering fluid. When mine leaked, it sprayed it all underneath the vehicle. Please, fix that PS leak!!

 

[neapolitan]

Yes, you are correct; it now moves in reverse and drive. I did not drive the truck; just tested it out in my driveway and can confirm that it seems to have repaired itself temporarily.

I won't move the car until further notice. I'll provide results of the fuse check in the morning.

Thanks for everyone's help.

Do I understand you correctly that it drives now after rest? Don't drive the truck! I would have it towed since you don't have a dipstick to check level or leave it parked until you do have it. Driving it low on fluid can damage it beyond repair. The oil you see may be the power steering fluid. When mine leaked, it sprayed it all underneath the vehicle. Please, fix that PS leak!!

 

[neapolitan]

Ok guys.

No leak under the car that could be attributed to transmission fluid.

Checked the fuse box with a friend and can confirm that both fuse #16 and #22 are good to go.

 

[megadamp]

Check the fluid level and your good to go. Untill next time Nea.

 

[Tboater]

SYMPTOMS
Engine starts up and run well, but the car doesn't want to move at all.
Reverse does not work. Drive does not work.
Shifting gears (left or right) does not work.
When gear shifter is in R or D the rpm will not exceed 1100rpm.
When gear shifter is in P or N you can get normal/higher rpm.
If you had some problem getting the gear shifter into P and when you put some more pressure it suddenly jumped into place with a little “crack”…look no further …you now know you got a problem.
If you had some problem getting the gear shifter into D , but it goes into P, R, N I guess the “gear shifter sylinder” could be in the wrong position too, but in the front of the plastic on the rod instead of the rear of it.

Probable cause of this problem is that you have done some work on your transmission that includes removing the valve body.
When setting the valve body back on you have probably done the cardnial fault of not getting the “gear shifter sylinder” back into the plastic track connected to the Valve selector piston rod and accidently got it in behind the plastic profile. The result is a broken plastic profile whennyou “force” the gear shifter into park.

Could also be caused by bad luck, but the problem and solution of the problem stays the same.

To inspect the suspected cause of the problem you will have to drain the fluid in the transmission oilpan and remove the oil pan. The part is then easily located on the rear left side of the valve body.

I don’t clearly remember if you need to take down the valve body in order to slide out the Valve Selector Piston Rod or if it is enough to slightly bend down the spring plate connected to the gear shifter rod or if it is enough to remove the spring plate.

The replacement part is not available as a new part from Mercedes, Sonnax or other. It is only available as a used part(sold as piston rod with the plastic profile in one). Check ebay or similar. So when Mercedes or others tells that you need to get a “new” valve body that is shit talk.

THE PROBLEM AND SOLUTION ARE THE SAME ON BOTH TRANSMISSION 722.6 AND 722.9

Please google the name and number of the part below.

Vorwahlventil Automatikgetriebe/Valve Selector Piston Rod Mercedes Benz 722.6 A1402770543, A2042770043.

Link to picture of placement: https://i11.servimg.com/u/f11/16/43/27/10/img_9813.jpg
Picture of replacement part: http://i.ebayimg.com/images/i/122105135500-0-1/s-l1000.jpg

 

[Robert Anthes]

I always find the same problem posted but I always find that all people steay and dont give the solution to the problem. Well, check this out. I have a 2002 ML320 with a no shift problem and I really need an answer that works. Period! Gear shift moves thru all the gears but Reverse and Drive wont engage. The only two known fixes so far is the brushes in motors A55 and A 7 were worn out so I rebuilt both and they both work. HI/Low range and ESP Braking are good. Now to go farther I have replaced everything twice to solve the problem and still have the same results.
I am talking: 3 Valve Bodys complete with valves and conductor plates; 3 complete shifters; 8 ETC's; 1 ECU; 2 ESP N47-5; Fluid Change, Linkage adjustments; and even a MB II scanner to clear and check faults, and more also.
Now it has no fault codes, and isnt in emergency mode and the only thing i can think of next is the VSS sensors. Why? Because I noticed a reading of 75 MPH on my meter but I think there is two bad. Would this cause the ETC not to work on the CAN signal? Wrong RPM's because I have no wheel speed and this should read 0 MPH? Did I miss something? I really need help from someone who has the know how I dont have. And my dog gives no answers.

 

[Hirnbeiss]

At this point I would guess bad torque converter, but it’s just a guess. Maybe get a diagnosis from someone like https://www.expresstransmissions.com before throwing more parts at it.

 

[Tboater]

Have you read the post above yours. I have done that repair and it was the solution. Have fun!

 

[vvrjrlaw]

The piece that Tboater is referring to is actually plastic and is on the end of the selector arm. If not put up correctly the piece will break and MB wants to sell you a new valve body for some outrageous amount. The piece shows up on EBay every so often and costs roughly 60.00a piece.. I picked up three and had to use one because my guy who is normally very fastidious about the vehicle did something dumb during a conductor plate change and broke it. He offered to pay for it ( I refused because sometimes shit just happens) but was too embarrassed to tell me what happened. I have two left but I have a CLS55 AMG and the ML55 AMG that both use the same power train except for the supercharger on the CLS so I will not be parting with them. Good luck with the hunt.

 

[43sqd]

I have a 2002 ML320 with a no shift problem and I really need an answer that works. Period! Gear shift moves thru all the gears but Reverse and Drive wont engage.

Are you sure this part was inserted correctly on the conductor plate?