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Discussion Starter #61
I think you have been conned. Why would anyone remove the IC fuse #7 out ? To hide the fault indicators that may pop up as you drive ? Wrong fuse will not cause this.
he told me that it had been at shop to be smogged and that they never drove enough miles for the computer to calibrate or whatever. so i now im going to message him if they were planning on smogging it with no dash lights haha...they were buddies so it could be the case...
i notice a white powder like corrosion on top\back computer thing above the k40, wonder if its damaged from getting wet
 

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so i got a 12.5 on the 4, looks like 7 is not plugged in. i need to find a diagram showing what amp fuses are suppose to be where, by the looks of it not all are installed... View attachment 2619453
One quick look at this image. Vehicle was submerged in a swamp past rocker panels. It will never run.:censored:
 

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Discussion Starter #65
Haha I wouldn't doubt it, it came with the super slim tires, gotta say it's an interesting look. I'm sure i can clean it up a bit more and replace some electrical bits and pieces right? It was driving but I seriously bet it was from him shodily attaching the battery and had the wrong fuses in it which would allowed a surge to get through. Just a hunch or something mechanical could have worn out too. But it definitely Sat outside for three years...
 

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1998 E320 base sedan @ 160kmiles
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Looks pretty oxidized, but as you said it ran once, it should be fine. It is the ECU module. Here is the more comprehensive picture. I got the picture from one of the past posts. Right next to K40 is the TCM, then ETC, and then ECU.
 

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If the vehicle has been coded incorrectly and is set to think it has a manual transmission, it can from experience cause the gear indicator in the cluster to be blank on a W211. I would think it is very likely this would apply to a W210 as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #68
well my last car was manual so im used to not having the indicator, but apparently the car has to know what gear it is in... gotta figure out what system is faulty, the conductor plate or TCM
 

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1998 MB E300TD, 1997 MB E36 AMG, 2001 MB E55 AMG
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The cluster gear indicator comes from the shifter, not conductor plate. Conductor plate going bad would trigger check engine light, whereas shifter going bad would possibly not trigger check engine light but trigger limp mode.

TCM must see gear indicator position from shifter and conductor plate, and they both must match before allowing transmission to shift properly.

Replace the shifter to begin with.
 

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1998 E320 base sedan @ 160kmiles
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The cluster gear indicator comes from the shifter, not conductor plate. Conductor plate going bad would trigger check engine light, whereas shifter going bad would possibly not trigger check engine light but trigger limp mode.

TCM must see gear indicator position from shifter and conductor plate, and they both must match before allowing transmission to shift properly.

Replace the shifter to begin with.
I think the gear indicator info is supplied to the IC by the TCM, not by the shifter. The shifter sends the selected gear information for P,R,N,D gears. For manual shifting, it only provides "+" and "-" information when you slap the gear knob side to side while it is in D. The shifter does not really know which manual gear is selected, or which gear the transmission currently is. Only the TCM knows it as it controls the shifting electronically. So if the gear indicator is showing the current gear in manual selection (1,2,3,4), the information should come from the TCM, not from the shifter. So I would not blame the shifter yet.

With a proper scanner it is very easy to diagnose problems of this nature, as the gear selection, targeted gear, current gear, P/N start enable, brake pedal switch status, and a host of information is available.

If the scanner is not available, you can check the P/N switch status at the TCM connector 1 at the cable side which is designated as S1 in the attached diagram. If you pull connector 1 cable harness connector from the TCM, and locate pins 33, and 34 positions, you can measure the resistance between the two connector pins. If it reads infinity (or very high resistance) when the key is out and the gear is in Park. If the gear is in D or R, it should read some resistance like 2 to 5 K ohms. This is the resistance of the ATF temp sensor, as the S1 switch is supposed to be closed.

If the reading is not open circuit, then the problem is in the conductor plate or the cabling (contamination), or shifter linkage to the transmission. The last one, shifter linkage issue is another thing that you can check (loose feeling shifter shifter stick). In that case you need to get new shifter bushings for each side of the of the linkage as required.
 

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Discussion Starter #71
thanks for the detailed write up, after pulling the connectors my first impression is it must have shorted out from the white corrosion pattern, if thats the case the TCM might be fried? i am not quite sure which part i need to test, the wire harness correct? i will have a picture of what im talking about in minute.
 

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Don't bother. Replace that tcm first.
 

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Discussion Starter #74
Thanks, so from what I've read the replacement TCM would need to be programmed unless it's the same year/model right?
 

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1998 MB E300TD, 1997 MB E36 AMG, 2001 MB E55 AMG
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Yes and no. No programming needed if it's from the same year.

You have a transition car, pull the TCM and go by the part number and make sure the replacement TCM comes from a 2000 model.
 

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Discussion Starter #78
im wondering if it had been replaced before, it has CLK 430 03/00 in orange pen written on the back...
 

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1998 MB E300TD, 1997 MB E36 AMG, 2001 MB E55 AMG
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E430, CLK430 or S430 will work.
 

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1998 E320 base sedan @ 160kmiles
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You have a lot of white stuff there. I wonder what the heck happened ? It looks as if it is water damaged and corroded.. You should clean the connectors, especially the rightmost side of the harness connector (two rightmost pins). This is the CANbus interface. No TCM CANbus interface = no start. You can try the CRC electronics connector cleaner spray from Walmart (cheaper) or any auto store, and douse the connectors. with spray. let them dry completely and reconnect and test.
 
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