[grahamggg]

I tried doing some searches on this topic and didn't find anything conclusive. When my car is cold, it will start fine but then immediately die. If I give it a little gas right when it turns over, it will stay running just fine. If I let it idle for 15-20 seconds, then start it again, it starts and runs like a dream. It always starts like a dream when it's warmed up.

This issue has been evolving for the last few months since I bought the car. At first, it would always start and run when it was cold, but the start was very rough. Now, it starts and then dies. Again, if I let it warm up for just a few seconds, then turn it off and start again - it will start just fine.

Any ideas on where to start?

 

[grahamggg]

Also, just to add - I've recently replaced the fuel filter, distrib cap/rotor, plugs and wires. None of these had an effect on the issue (not that I really expected them to).

 

[dolucasi]

Also, just to add - I've recently replaced the fuel filter, distrib cap/rotor, plugs and wires. None of these had an effect on the issue (not that I really expected them to).

If I were you, I would start with the cold start valve. Because that one is specific to cold starts only. Test the control signal coming in by disconnecting it. Or if you do not have a multimeter just unplug it and try to start the car first thing in the morning. Does the car behave any differently. If it does not then you will have to attached the multimeter and see if the signal is there. If it is then you will have to remove the cold start valve place it in a ziplock bag and try to start the car (when cold) and see if it is spraying and go from there.

BTW, the car should start in a split second when cold (in CA) and you should not have to sit there cranking. And it should stay idling without giving it any gas. That's what mine is like when everything is functioning properly.

Good luck Graham, this should be a contained problem.

 

[grahamggg]

If I were you, I would start with the cold start valve. Because that one is specific to cold starts only. Test the control signal coming in by disconnecting it. Or if you do not have a multimeter just unplug it and try to start the car first thing in the morning. Does the car behave any differently. If it does not then you will have to attached the multimeter and see if the signal is there. If it is then you will have to remove the cold start valve place it in a ziplock bag and try to start the car (when cold) and see if it is spraying and go from there.

BTW, the car should start in a split second when cold (in CA) and you should not have to sit there cranking. And it should stay idling without giving it any gas. That's what mine is like when everything is functioning properly.

Good luck Graham, this should be a contained problem.

Thank you - based on your feedback I tried some things last night and this morning with some interesting results.

I disconnected the cold start valve (CSV) last night when the car was still cold and tried starting it. It took a second or two longer to crank over, but once it did it ran smoothly with no roughness and I didn't need to give it any extra gas.

I left the CSV disconnected and tried again this morning with similar results, although it took maybe a second or so more to crank over than last night (I'm assuming this is because it was approx. 10-15 degrees colder this morning than last night)

I drove the car all the way to work this morning, and I noticed that the car also idles higher with the CSV disconnected, even when the car is warmed up (it idles at 850-900 rpm instead of the usual 700-750).

What do you think? I'm wondering if I should just leave it disconnected, but I'm a little concerned about the higher idle. I may leave it disconnected for a few more days just to see if anything changes, since these aren't the results I was expecting.

 

[grahamggg]

After going a few days with the cold start valve unplugged, I'm loving life. My previous statement about the higher idle with it unplugged was a false alarm - I guess that was just a weird occurrence at a traffic light that I happened to notice.

I think I'm just going to leave it unplugged. I don't think the temp will ever get cold enough where I am for me to truly need it.

 

[dolucasi]

After going a few days with the cold start valve unplugged, I'm loving life. My previous statement about the higher idle with it unplugged was a false alarm - I guess that was just a weird occurrence at a traffic light that I happened to notice.

I think I'm just going to leave it unplugged. I don't think the temp will ever get cold enough where I am for me to truly need it.

Good to hear Graham. Since you are a pick and Pull junkie like myself, I would suggest going to your favorite and picking a couple of cold start valves to try. I suspect your might be leaking or malfunctioning. This way you will end up with a cold start valve that is functional.