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Discussion Starter #1
Group,

What is the best way to get new front swaybar links on? Boy are they a tight fit. They were not to bad coming off but the new ones sure don't want to go on! I'm having a hard time getting them to slid onto the swaybar.

Any tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
 

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2012 C300 Sport 4Matic and 2003 CLK430 Cabrio
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I had to use a press when I did my BMW. You can take them to a auto shop and have the put in for cheep.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So i'd have to remove the whole swaybar? I'm looking at it thinking that might be my only option. I know I'm not a bodybuilder, but come on!

The only thing I can think of is if I remove the whole swaybar I can have better access to hammer the things on. Kind of a pain in the ass......

Seems like this should be a simple repair.......always has been before with other cars.....
 

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03 E320 4M Wagon & 97 E320
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You can go to a hardware store to get some plumber's greese. Put it inside the link and some on the bar then slide it in.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
loubapache said:
You can go to a hardware store to get some plumber's greese. Put it inside the link and some on the bar then slide it in.

Will this work better than WD40??? If so, I will be buying some first thing in the morning! I have WD40'd the parts.....
 

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Discussion Starter #7
loubapache said:
WD-40 won't work. That is a type of silicon grease. It is special for the rubber parts.
Thank you much loubapache......I will go pick some up tomorrow....unless I feel like checking to see if meijer has it tonight.

I noticed youre in western michigan? Where at? I'm near GR.....
 

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I am in Big Rapids.

Go to Menards but they are closed now. Meijer might have it.

I just did the bushings on my 1991 300E a couple weeks ago.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
loubapache said:
I am in Big Rapids.

Go to Menards but they are closed now. Meijer might have it.

I just did the bushings on my 1991 300E a couple weeks ago.
Thanks for the help loubapache.

The greese didn't work. I still met the same resistence. I guess what I'm looking for is a suggestion on how to create enough pressure to push this link onto the swaybar. I just don't have the strength physically to push it on. And it doesn't even feel like I'm close. So.......any suggestions out there? How does everyone else get theirs on???
 

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Discussion Starter #11
loubapache said:
Push while twisting? Also you can use the old link and then use a hammer to tap it along?

Ugh! Maybe I have the wrong part!!! I dunno......I hammered the S*** out of that thing......nothing........maybe I should dip it Mobil1???? !!!!
 

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heres what you do.

1. Try liquid dish soap. Its about the slipperiest substance you can use on rubber.

If that doesn't work,

Put the link in the oven. Get it hot, but not so hot as to melt the rubber. You need to use a little thermal expansion. Id say about 250 degrees would do it.

Then, put some dish soap on the rubber, and slide it on.

easy.
 

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1959 220S cabriolet, 1983 240D original owner, 1999 E300 turbo diesel, 1988 560SL, 2003 SLK320
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You likely need new bushings for the sway bar as much as you need new links. In order to change the bushings, the entire sway bar has to come off. Take a look at the fasteners though. You need an external torx socket to remove them. As we speak, my car sits on blocks as I'm waiting on those sockets to arrive. I removed my sway bar links with a pickle fork and figured I'd be able to remove the bushing brackets easily - WRONG!! First time I've ever run into those types of bolts. So with the sway bar off the car, replace the bushings and install the new links. Get the link started on one end. Then turn it over and give it a good rap on a couple of thicknesses of card board and it should pop on. Make sure you replace or at least clean and reapply Loctite to the bolts.

Len
 

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Len:

Although I have not done this on a W210 (but have looked at mine), there should be a way to do it one side at a time without completely removing the sway bar. I just did that on my W124 and I cannot see any difference in the sway bar bushings. The links are different because W124 uses 4 bushings rather than the 2 bushings and 2 links on W210.

Once the bracket holding the busing and the end link are removed, there should be enough flex for the sway bar to move around so you can slide the new bushing over. The silicon grease (very thick) is the right lubricant to use. Put quite a bit inside the bushing and it should trist and slide in.

It would be much easier if you can do it one side at a time without removing the bar.

The torx bits or sockets are available in Autozone or Advanced Auto Parts.

It is nice that many airports have free Internet. I am typing at the Grand Rapids (MI)Airport to fly to Asia for my vacation.
 

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Yes, you may be able to do one side at a time, but why bother? There are four bolts holding the bushings/brackets/sway bar in place. If the links need to be changed, then the bushings do too in all probability. The links are easier to pop off with the sway bar in place, but the bushings and reinstalling the links is so much easier with the bar in your hand. And you only need to jack up one side to do it.

The rears OTOH I did with the sway bar in place, one side at a time. The bushings on the rear are split so that they don't even have to be slid ion. Just open up the cut and put it in place. And the rear links are just a bolt on operation.

Len
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Okay, got them on this morning! Thanks again loubapache. Appreciate the advice. Went to Menards this morning and picked up the exact greese you were talking about. Then I used a crowbar and pushed it (swaybar link) onto the swaybar with leverage from the shock.

I almost took the swaybar off, but resisted the urge. It is amazing how much that really tightens up the feel of the car. And the clunk noise is gone!

Thanks again,
Ryan

I'll have to remember that GR Ford airport has internet when I fly out in a couple of weeks here......
 
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