[CHRISTIANCOLLETTI]

Long time reader, rarely posted...
However, I've read through countless pages/stickies of AC problems in 1999 E320.
I have had intermittent AC. Some days it works. Other days it doesn't. Some days the blower comes on, some days it doesn't

And guys, I need help.

Codes:
1 111
2 96
3 109
4 107
5 107
6 204
7 09
8 107

Error Codes:
EB 1234
EB 1416
EB 1419
EB 1459

Now I realize that the electromagnetic clutch code, is almost a duh... but It was working fine the other day.
I had to replace the voltage regulator in the blower motor.... now I have full control over blower. So that part is fixed.
I also put a tall can of 134 into the system, because the gauge was reading "LOW" ...but when I did that, the compressor was still running at the time.

So I am at a loss for words... I don't like to throw parts at things that don't need parts.

HELP!

CHRISTIAN

 

[mrboca]

Hello

Concentrate on the clutch issue. You have an intermittent connection, either at the connectors to the compressor / a/c controller, or wiring, or the clutch coil inside the clutch.

Also it would help if you posted the whole set of set of codes (1 through 43), so we will know whether the car was running when you took the readings, blower / fan speeds variant codes etc.

 

[CHRISTIANCOLLETTI]

Dear Mr. Boca:
per your request (see above):

1 111
2 96
3 109
4 107
5 107
6 204
7 09
8 107
9 32
10 5.2
11 2.5
12 2.5
20 3.2
21 32
22 00
23 32
24 11.3
40 164
41 91
42 104
43 136

Interestingly enough, yesterday ambient temp around 85F. For some reason, the only Error codes I could read were:
EB1419
EB1241
And no others.
Also, the compressor is not running.
The EC light will NOT go out when pressed.

So that's the new stuff.
My estimation, is the pressure sensor (241), is likely shot. Finally gave out. I did spray some "DeOxit" into the compressor connector and pressure sensor connector.
Let it sit... But no change.
I did not put a volt meter to the compressor connection or the sensor connection.

Your thoughts always appreciated.
Thank you again.
Christian

 

[mrboca]

It appears that you drove the car / run the engine for a while and then turned off the ignition and made some measurements from the a/c controller. You need to do the measurements

1) Reset the error codes so the compressor can run, and the EC light can be turned off. Use the fault code reset procedures.

2) when the engine is cold and everything is stabilized (first thing in the morning), turn the ignition to "run" without starting the engine, and take the above measurements. This should give realistic measurements for the ambient / internal / heater and evaporator sensors, as well as engine coolant / refrigerant temperature and pressure. Record the readings (full 443 so I can make sure that the engine is not running from the battery reading).

3)With a/c on, start the engine, bring it to operating temperature, and read the sensor data as above (make sure that the EC light is OFF) after few minutes. The main interest is the changes in refrigerant pressure and temperature.

4) If you cannot turn the EC light OFF, we need to bypass the refrigerant sensor, so that the compressor can start. Let me know if this is the case.

From what you wrote, it is not possible to determine the refrigerant pressure when the a/c system is running (with compressor on).

If you can deoxit the compressor connector, you can measure the resistance between the connector pin and chassis ground, right ? You would be measuring the coil resistance which should be tens of Ohms.

 

[CHRISTIANCOLLETTI]

Dear Mr. Boca:
Hope you are well.

Update of sorts: 1999 E320 AC troubles:
1. replaced the compressor and clutch assembly. My indy mechanic (reliable) had a used compressor on the shelf and installed it. Viola! Compressor working. Then he refilled system, and it was working fine.
2. couple days later, NO AC. Compressor still working.
3. Pulled the blower that was fitted with the new resistor. Bypassed power to blower, didn't work. Alot of carbon powder residue falling out of blower motor.
4. purchased new blower motor. Ran diagnostics. Showed that the new blower (10) was fine. Read 5.2
5. Received new resistor. Fitted to new blower. Installed. NOTHING. ran diagnostics again.

Ambient temp today, 73 degrees (approx.)

1 73
2 76
3 112
4 107
5 67
6 179
7 09
8 120
9 27
10 5.7
11 2.4
12 2.7
20 3.2
21 32
22 00
23 32
24 11.6
40 164
41 91
42 104
43 136

I pulled the controller out of the dash. Deoxit'd the connections, re-installed. NOTHING.

Also ran the EC/RES diagnostics. There were NO trouble codes displayed. None.
Can you assist?

Kindest regards,
Christian Colletti
850-387-6565

 

[mrboca]

Hello

1) check fuse 4 and 7 at the driver's side and make sure that fuse 4 has 12V (measure at the top on both sides) with respect to chassis ground, all the time, and fuse 7 has 12V when the key is in position 2 (run)

2) make sure that the red wire that goes to the blower motor has 12V, and the brown wire from the blower regulator is properly connected to ground behind the instrument cluster.

3) With the a/c blower control set to max, turn the ignition to start the car, then turn it off. take the key out, and press and hold REST button watching a/c controller to turn on, and check whether the blower motor turns (at low speed, blowing from the side and foot level outlets).

 

[Deplore]

So when you say "nothing", you mean no chilled air, or no air at all?

 

[CHRISTIANCOLLETTI]

That is correct. NO COLD FORCED AIR COMING FROM BLOWER.
I have eliminated most of the suspect problems.
Mr. Boca is very helpful. I will electrically trouble shoot from here.

I'm at a loss... I've tried to operate the controller for defrost, heat, EC, REST, nothing is working.
I'm tempted now to think that the controller is failing... Mr. Boca gave me a short list of connections to check.

CC

 

[Kajtek1]

You are doing random sensor readouts without disclosing other factors.
Last values show your AC at 67F is working, just not enough to cool the cabin.
110F cores would indicate heat is on.
Do the full readout per link in stickies.

 

[mrboca]

You are doing random sensor readouts without disclosing other factors.
Last values show your AC at 67F is working, just not enough to cool the cabin.
110F cores would indicate heat is on.
Do the full readout per link in stickies.

His main problem is NOT the a/c performance. His blower is not working.

He did the proper thing, and reported the whole set of readings, so one could easily see that his engine was not even running (from his battery voltage) when he took the readings.

 

[Kajtek1]

It is chaotic description.
1 month ago blower was reported intermittent, when last reply says "NO COLD FORCED AIR" what could indicate warm air.
Then when blower is the problem, why post partial sensor test?

 

[CHRISTIANCOLLETTI]

Hello

1) check fuse 4 and 7 at the driver's side and make sure that fuse 4 has 12V (measure at the top on both sides) with respect to chassis ground, all the time, and fuse 7 has 12V when the key is in position 2 (run)

2) make sure that the red wire that goes to the blower motor has 12V, and the brown wire from the blower regulator is properly connected to ground behind the instrument cluster.

3) With the a/c blower control set to max, turn the ignition to start the car, then turn it off. take the key out, and press and hold REST button watching a/c controller to turn on, and check whether the blower motor turns (at low speed, blowing from the side and foot level outlets).

Mr. Boca! how are you sir.
Well, we seem to have attracted some attention.
Per your request of your last message, I offer the following:

1. Fuses 4 and 7 pulled and were physically OK.
2. #4 read 12 Volts and #7 read 0 Volts, with CAR OFF
3. Started Car: #4 read 11.8 V and #7 read 11.8 V
re-installed fuses.

Car Off: Key in pos. 2
EC/RES codes: B1241 Refrigerant Fill
(Note: car just in mechanic two weeks ago. Fresh fill. )

Next:
Car Running:
Clutch Running (*all codes cleared)
1: 87
1: 93
2: 105
4: 105
5: 80
6: 181
7: 06
8: 93
9: 31
10: 6.0
11: 2.4
12: 2.6
20: 3.2
21: 42
22; 00
23: 32
24: 13.5
40: 164
41: 91
42: 104
43: 136

Now, per your request: I pulled plug to motor, while car running and AC ON.
Volt meter:
RED to brown: 14.0 V
Continuity: Brown to ground: SAT. Ohm meter registered good continuity. BEEP

Also: per your request:
Item 3 of your list:
with AC blower set to max, key OFF and removed. Pushed/held REST Button. No blower motor at any speed from sides or foot outlets.

CAN THIS BE A CONTROLLER ISSUE AT THIS POINT?
seems everything around the system, w/ exception of controller is working. Am i wrong?

Your truly, Christian Colletti
850-387-6565

 

[mrboca]

OK,

When you removed the key and pressed the REST button, if the blower does not run, this tells me that the problem is not with the ignition switch blower control (circuit 15X).

You can test the output of the a/c controller to the blower when the a/c controller is turned on and supposed to be controlling the blower motor.

1) Remove the connector from the blower regulator to the controller.
2) Increase the blower level to max using the keys.
3) Measure the voltage between ground (brown) and blower control (white/pink) at the connector towards the controller.
4) when the blower is set to max you should read 6V when set to minimum you should read less than 1V (0.8V).
5 Measure the voltage between power (red/black) wire and brown wire towards the controller. You should around 12V.
6) If you read the above the controller is providing the correct voltage levels, so the problem is either the wiring to the regulator or the regulator / blower.
7) if not, the controller is suspect.

Check the diagram out.