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1999 CL600, 1997 C230
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Discussion Starter #121
Found a guy somewhat local, in Spanaway, about an hour south. I stopped by and delivered the mock up today. We had a long conversation about the how's what's and why's of the design, and now we have a plan to proceed.
He is going to charge time and materials for the build, and we are going to take it a section at a time, starting with the passenger front mock up. Once he has the tubes built from stainless steel, I will bring it back and test fit it before final welding. Then final adjustments, then we start on the pass. rear bank.
I started with the passenger side first with the hopes of finding another W140 owner that wants to try to fit them to their M104 with the drivers side is being done. If they work on a M104 as well as a M120, then there might be a market for them... But the cost may be more than most people want to pay me thinks.
 

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99CL600,98CL600 Swiss import,R230 SL666, EURO1985 280 CE & XR600R Desert killer
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Why not copy Japanese brilliant headers that are available for M120!!! But price is like 9k
 

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1999 CL600, 1997 C230
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Discussion Starter #123
Why not copy Japanese brilliant headers that are available for M120!!! But price is like 9k
Several reasons. 1) They are no longer available, from what I understand. 2) They are designed for more of a high pitch sound that I do not want. 3) And, the most important, THEY WERE $9000!!! That's 2k more than I paid for the car! Plus, did anyone notice on that Jalopnik video referenced that the car is an W220? How is that possible? The M120 was not available in the W220, the M137 was. So, were the Brilliant headers for the M120? I don't think the writer did enough research on that article
https://jalopnik.com/how-to-make-a-used-mercedes-sound-like-a-pagani-zonda-1611782156/+travis

Anyway, Delays and irritation have sent me in another direction. Yet again... Am I ever going to finish even one project on this thing...
A few months ago, I used a contact I had made long ago in Poland to procure and ship some interior parts from a CL500 there. The VIN told me that it had the same interior (518a) as mine. The seat leathers were unavailable, but the door cards, side cards, package tray and trunk interior were. So, I bought them all and had them sent to me. Yeah, I'm that hard up for correct interior parts that I had to import them from frickin' POLAND!

All the parts arrived in great condition. I damn hear cried when I saw the trunk interior parts. The car came without them and I was beginning to think I'd never find a set. I unpacked them, spread them out on the garage floor and fought back tears. There are issues, like the donor car was a 500, so no rear shade provision in the package tray. Plus, it was so faded that it is unusable. I do, however, have have one from a 98 that I took when I scavenged the rear tray metal; problem with that one is, it's wrapped in brown MBtext. I started stripping the MBText of it today and prepping it for new MBText. Now to find a source for the correct color gray...
The deck needs some reinforcements. A few cracks and breaks in the fiberboard are there. Nothing a bit of glue and fiberglass can't fix, and some select parts from the donor tray.

The other issue is that I forgot that the European years are different than the US, and the door cards are of the pre-face lifted style. Bummer. They are not really usable by me, so will probably be put up on eBay, unless someone here wants them. PM if you need 'em. The inserts are different as well, no provision for the side airbags.

The side cards have different style grips as well, so I will most likely just use the inserts (to get rid of that crappy white leather) and sell them with the door cards. At least I now have an actual sample of the correct color gray, or is it technically Ash, for the inserts and seats.
 

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1999 CL600, 1997 C230
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Discussion Starter #124
Had an "overwhelmed" moment the other day. I was cleaning up the garage, something I admit I have neglected for far too long, when I just sat down, looking at the car, and just felt overwhelmed when I started to think about all that has to happen to this thing just to get it back on the road.
Most of the interior is removed while I work on refinishing the package tray. This has lead to removing the headliner to fix the sunroof panel that the material pulling away from every time you move it. In the mean time I am trying to either find as close to stock material for to recover the seats with as possible, or find someone willing to recreate them with the closest to stock material. The door cards are off so I can undo what the previous owner had done to the door and to prepare the doors for the new sound setup.
Then, for some reason I started thinking of the header project, and how that has come to a stop while waiting for my fabrication guy to get it on his active job list. And how that project has lead to the valve cover reseal... which is now turned into a PVC replacement and cam cover reseal; and the motor mounts, air box redesign and install (stocks are not going to fit with exhaust), oh and I almost forgot to do the Double T pipe while I'm in there. Anyone got a lead on a metal one I can buy? Only what to do that job once.
Then there's the air ride conversion project that is on hold due to the car not having an exhaust system, which means I cannot drive it to by buddy's shop to installing the bags (the controller, tank and pump are all in already).

OK, now that that's off my chest... Time to regroup and refocus, and get back to it.
 

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Discussion Starter #125
No update on the exhaust. Still in a holding pattern while the guy who said he can do it works it into his schedule.

I have been working on the car though... The sun roof was only opening 1/3 of the way, so I knew there was something broken in there. I took the back seat, rear package tray and headliner out to access the sunroof. Then took the entire sunroof out of the car and dismantled it to find the problem. Turned out to be a broken track that was blocking the movement.

Also, the sunshade was coming apart up in there, so I decided to strip it down to its parts and rebuild it. No pics of how it looked when it was removed, but here are some of it pulled apart:

Back side of the material

Exposed side

Broken vents

And bare board

This "backing foam" is what the issue is with the sunshade. When it gets old, it deteriorates and separates, causing the material to release from the board. Here's the board after removing all the adhesive:

This was done with 2 cans of Goof-Off Super Glue Removal (yellow can with Green writing). It is simply the best and easiest way to get the reside off the board. And it's like $4 a can.
 

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1999 CL600, 1997 C230
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Discussion Starter #126
Here is the material after cleaning and steaming. Cleaned with a upholstery cleaner and steamed to get rid of the wrinkles.


I was going to try to match the material as best I can, but since it cleaned up so well, I have decided to reuse it. Nothing like using OE stuff to keep it OE. I found a guy selling one of these shades on eBay and bought it. The vents are still available, as they have been used on a lot of chassis since the C140, but are $26/ea and ONLY available in Black. I bough the ebay shade for $100 with free shipping, making it a better deal than new ones as well as keeping the correct color.
I ordered the broken guide, which looked like this:

And was amazed to find out that these are $1.55/ea! Apparently these too are used in a lot of chassis... still.
But, what I was not able to find and order is this part:

The "fork" shaped end of the bellows. One side is broken and I cannot find the part number to order a new one.
Any help? I might do a separate post for this since not everyone looks at this thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #127
Sunroof pan got a bit rusty from the sunroof sliding along the broken track and scrapping carriage on the pan

So time for some rust treatment and refirb
 

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Discussion Starter #128
OK, so, back on the engine of late. I finally got the intake manifold and valve covers off and delivered to the powder coating company. I was debating having them done in a tuners color scheme: AMG, Carlsson, etc.; but in the end, I decided to go a different route. I chose a gloss light gray for the intake manifold, and a semi-matte dark gray for the valve covers. Basically, I went with colors that tie the interior colors into the engine bay. Samples:


They should be done in 2-3 weeks. Pics to follow.
I deliberately chose colors that are not metallic, but solid. The idea is to have the manifold look just a bit off from stock so that people not familiar with M120's think it looks stock, but people who know them will realize something is different. It's my preferred way to screw with people apparently. I did the same thing when I built up the engine in my old Volvo V70R. Changed it from stock just enough to catch the attention of people who know what they are looking at, giving them something new to see. I am eclectic that way...


Found a bonus 40Amp MAXI Fuse in the V when I removed the manifold. Not sure what it was doing in the engine bay, all the aftermarket fusing and audio equipment was in the trunk ...so, odd.
Also looking through the spacers, I can see the the updated PVC pipe is installed, which would make sense as it is a 1999, last of the M120's, so it has the corrections. I have bought a new PVC pipe (new style) and plan to replace the original while I'm in there. Also doing the cam cover seals, Thermostat and T-Stat mount seals, removing some of the Smog parts and vacuum lines and having the injectors tested and cleaned.
 

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Discussion Starter #129
Sunroof update: Interior cover is finished, using the donor cover's vents that I bought of some guy on eBay. If you recall, the vents are available, but are $25/ea, and only in black. So, instead I bough one a guy was selling for $100, scrapped the cover (it was from a CL500 and fabric, but suede), and salvaged the vents. Then reinstalled my original suede fabric after I cleaned and pressed it.

Came out damn pretty if you ask me.
Also found the part that caused the original problem with the sunroof alignment, which caused all the rubbing, scraping and cover damage.

That little damn roller is flat on one side, casing it to drag in the channel. Problem is, its a discontinued part. /sadtrombone I have to try to recover one from a donor car. So, if any of you guys have a ride near you that can pull this part, I'd be grateful. It is the angle piece that attached to the glass. I can't really re-install the sunroof until I get this part, so this may take awhile. In the mean time, I have started adding a bit more sound dampening to the roof, because you know, I want one of the most quiet cars int he world to be even more quiet ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #130
And, lastly, I started laying the foundation for the Pass. Side Door Speaker pod. This is three layers of fiberglass that will be shaped into the back of the box for the Dynaudio MW152 and MW162 drivers that will sit where the factory drivers used to sit.
With back masking:

Without back masking:

It's just the start. There will be expansion boxes that go into the door, avoiding the glass of course, and expand the chamber for the proper airspace for each driver.

Whew, that's a lot of updating. I should probably update more often...

Next plans are to complete the engine stuff and get the sunroof back in, so I can get it to the exhaust shop for fitting of the equal length headers. Can't frickin wait for that.
 

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Discussion Starter #131
Engine teardown is officially complete! Got the intake spacers, pvc pipe and front cam covers off today.

Found the two leak points on both cam covers: Pass Side: On the side of the V of the cover, oddly. The oil was squirting out under the chain bridge, and coming down the front of the block. Divers side: Leak was at the normal spot, where the cover, timing chain cover, block and head meet.

Hard to see, but that's a lot of oil cake in the V. Followed the trail to this spot.

These are as hard as a damn rock. It'll be nice to get them replaced.

Also, I've noticed multiple signs that someone has been in there before. Such as: The intake spacers were not torqued down properly, One of them has a broken mount tab on the end. The PCV Pipe was not secured to the mid-mounting point. The timing chain bridge cover bolts were not torqued properly. Power Steering Reservoir tubes are not secured with factory clamps. But, that was it. The cam covers were not touched. From what I can tell, I broke the factory seals for these.

The V was a lot cleaner that I expected. A few leaves and twigs, some oil and dirt, and a few washers that someone dropped while reassembling the intake, I'm assuming.


Knock sensors are the updated style, as expected. I am debating whether to replace them or not now, because I have no intention of getting in there again. Same with the crank sensor that's in there.

I'll spend the next few days (weeks) cleaning up the oil and preparing for reassembly. I have a bit of time before the parts are back from the powder coater.
 

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These are as hard as a damn rock. It'll be nice to get them replaced.
A fellow down from AUS was doing similar teardown and I commented on his thread. Here:


I think the gaskets have been replaced in the past. AFAIK, the material used for the OE front cover gaskets used in the assembly line is black, the green ones are the Victor Reinz aftermarket parts.

Also, please notice that the official procedure for sealing the infamous "Bermuda triangle" -- the front upper, lower covers and the corner where head and block meets requires two types of MB recommended sealants, one of which is super expensive and not easy to find.

From your pictures, it looks like whoever did the job before used something different, and instead of "small amounts" just put a scoop of the goo....

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #133
I think the gaskets have been replaced in the past. AFAIK, the material used for the OE front cover gaskets used in the assembly line is black, the green ones are the Victor Reinz aftermarket parts.
Ah, good call. I didn't even think of that. And you are right, sealant was gooped all over the place. Places I didn't think it belonged. I do have the one sealant, but as you mentioned, the other is a bit hard to find. I'm hoping to get some before reassembly.
 

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Discussion Starter #134
Well, I thought treardown was complete... Then I remembered this bastard:


But I got it out, and NOW teardown is complete. Started cleaning the V and gasket remnants on the heads. I have to tell myself that the V does not have to be spotless. Get all the twigs and leaves, the accumulated dirt, oil and sludge... and get out. If I spend as much time in there as I really want to, "it will be a waste, it'll just get dirty again" is what I have to keep telling myself.
 

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Well, I thought treardown was complete... Then I remembered this bastard:


But I got it out, and NOW teardown is complete. Started cleaning the V and gasket remnants on the heads. I have to tell myself that the V does not have to be spotless. Get all the twigs and leaves, the accumulated dirt, oil and sludge... and get out. If I spend as much time in there as I really want to, "it will be a waste, it'll just get dirty again" is what I have to keep telling myself.
Yeah, and on the 12 cylinder, it is a bastard to get to. I replaced it on my two. I looked at the friend's car I'm working on now, and he has the early metal tee. Lucky!

Jon
 

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1999 CL600, 1997 C230
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Discussion Starter #136
Yeah, and on the 12 cylinder, it is a bastard to get to. I replaced it on my two. I looked at the friend's car I'm working on now, and he has the early metal tee. Lucky!

Jon
Very luck, I so want one of those metal ones. I have a few weeks to reinstall it, so I'll be looking for one.
 
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