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Hi,

I own a 1998 E300TD. I've had it from new and done 161k miles in it. It's been well looked after but is now showing some signs of age.

The other day, I heard a clunking noise when I started her up. I've got one glow plug down at present so I thought it was just associated with that as the noise disappeared when I revved the engine.

However, after 10 minutes, my low coolant light came on. When I got home, I looked under the bonnet only to find that some of the fan blades (the fan attached to the engine block - not the electric fan) had completely sheared off:crybaby2:. Further investigation showed that the fan blades had somehow 'moved' so that it was now hitting the radiator - this caused the fan shear as well as damage to the radiator (see attached photos). I've pulled (what's left of) the fan and whilst it moves slightly it's difficult to tell whether the bearing (or is it a clutch on the fan?) has gone as it is being held tightly by the belt. I've cheked that the radiator and the plastic housing (that the fan rotates inside of) hasn't 'slipped' (the housing is fixed to the car body but the fan is mounted on the engine block) but it is rock solid so have eliminated that.

I believe it will be just a matter of replacing the radiator and the fan (clutch fan?) but am reluctant to do it until I know that doing so will fix the problem. SO....

1) Can anyone shed any light as to what has caused the fan to shear and how I can check it?

2) Is it easy to fix? ie any special tools needed etc (I am a competent DIY car person). If you can point me to a step by step guide that would be most helpful (even if it's just to do part of the job eg remove radiator)

Any help wpuld be gratefully received

Regards

Keith
 

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E300TD 1997 W210 Running on WVO and a % of dino...
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1,206 Posts
EEK!

:eek::eek::eek:

Sorry to see this, I have no idea how this could come up... Shoking...
For the Fan its easy removal, you need to removhe the shroud, there is 2 clips on top that hold it in place, then pull it up nicely and gently, it might break if forced, and for the fan, there is a large allen bolt in the middle, just unscrew it and it'll come out.
If the bolt is turning you can just put another allen key at the back of the fan, I have posted a picture on how to somewhere but I have no time to look at it now.
Hope you get sorted soon.
I don't know about the rad removal.
 

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1999 E300 TD
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2,045 Posts
Well you will laugh at this but there is one very misinformed gent on this forum that biblically advocates braking off all his fan blades so the car run cooler. Please don't do the same thing and break the rest off.

Unless you have the special 8mm socket to remove the fan clutch, small hands, patience------it's off to the local mechanic.

However check the forums stickies and also the peach parts website under poly belt and or fan clutch, but in either case you will have to purchase the special tools. A simple DIY

As to why they broke off----I guess you will get loads of entertaining answers on that one---Good luck!!
 

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E320/E250 Bluetec Ford F350 6.7l
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My fan clutch bearing froze almost a year ago and I drive with no fan since.
The removal sounds easy till you find out the center bolt taking 8mm Allen wrench requiring over 100 ft-lb like I did. I removed the 3 Allen head bolts holding the blades to the clutch and drove with clutch only till my pump gave up and I had hell of the time to remove the pump with the clutch attached, to be able to use big wrenches when I had the assemble out.
From the picture I see like the blades moved out of the clutch on one side. Loosen bolts?
Got new clutch on ebay for $80. Still sitting in my garage.
I replaced radiator 2 years ago. It was about $500 at my local indy warehouse. Could get aftermarket for $290, but it would take a week to get it.
Sounds like Plutoe's 99 model has different clutch requiring a 8mm socket for removal.
Welcome to the forum and sorry for the circumstances.
 

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2005 W215 CL500
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Where do you live? If it doesn't ever get too hot there, just remove the fan...you don't need it. What do you say to that Plutoe?
 

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1999 E300 TD
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Nope my 99 viscous fan coupling is good for a 602, 605 and 606 diesel engine in a W210. I would not give the poster misleading torque information. The specs call for 45Nm of torque. No where near the 100 ft lbs you are suggesting be used.
 

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2005 W215 CL500
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Nope my 99 viscous fan coupling is good for a 602, 605 and 606 diesel engine in a W210. I would not give the poster misleading torque information. The specs call for 45Nm of torque. No where near the 100 ft lbs you are suggesting be used.
I don't think anyone suggested 100lbs to tighten it. But 100 lbs was needed to take it off. It seemed very clear to me.
 

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1986 190E 16V Cosworth stuipdly SOLD 1999 E300 (daily driver)
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Hi,

1) Can anyone shed any light as to what has caused the fan to shear and how I can check it? Keith
In my experience bad motor and transmission mounts will let the engine move around and the fan then kisses the rad with disastrous results. Try a line lock and see how muck the engine moves around. If they are stock and original mounts they are likely long over due to be replaced. Any engine vibration making its way to the cabin or steering wheel?
 

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E320/E250 Bluetec Ford F350 6.7l
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I don't think anyone suggested 100lbs to tighten it. But 100 lbs was needed to take it off. It seemed very clear to me.
Trying to teach the boy how to read English? ;)
I bought replacement fan clutch because occasionally we drive on 120-130F desert where engine runs even when parked. This summer the highest he was only 104 and the engine never reached 90C.
Than it wasn't the high temp on flat land that make the engine running warmer -it was 80F and 10 miles long grade at 6% made at 80 mph.
 

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1999 E430; 2005 ML500
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1,518 Posts
The cause is a bad fan clutch. On the gas engines this is a fairly standard replacement. I did mine with loaner tools from Autozone.
 

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1997 E300D
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71 Posts
I just finished this

job. Looking at your picture, I believe Matt hit the problem on the nose.
My radiator support was bent up causing the fan to lean in, when my wife arrive home the car was leaking fluid and the fan was jammed into the rad..

I have had the fan in 2 times in the last 24 hours. You don't need any special tools, although I did cut down a 8mm allen to make life a little easier.
You lift off the fan shroud, and lean it back towards the block. I caught the upper part behind the oil dip stick. Then you have access to your 8mm allen head. I used a full size one as you have clearance. At this point you don't care about you rad so don't sweat it. If you need to use the box end of a 14mm wrench to put over the allen arm and use as a breaker bar. Then you take out the fan and shroud in one go.
When I put my new rad back in, I fingered the 8mm allen bolt about 4 turns then started with my cut down allen. Then after about 6 turns I used a standard 8mm allen. In the past I would finger it until a normal allen would clear.

You will also need to take out the 4 bolts to the top panel above the rad. Then unclip the wire running in the panel. Place that out of your way behind the oil dip. The two tranny cooler lines (place a piece of card board down before you remove the lines) Get two baggies and zip ties, I zipped the bags 2 on each. and then tied them up above the best I could so they were the highest point.. you will loose a bit of fluid. I removed the upper tranny cooling line after I had the rad removed.


I went to home depot and bought a baby sledge and hammered the radiator frame flat.

ln one where you can see the frame, this needs to be flat. If yours is not flat, this is why your fan made contact with your fan. It is very flimsy metal and easy to bend, and the car is leading with this, very easy to hit this on a curb or bad dip.

In my pics, I decided to change out my frozen compressor before the AZ summer. So, the condenser is removed in my picture. I also removed all my hoses and water pump and stat. On the back side of the water pump you see evidence of custard coming out from the backside, and in the other picture, the main pulley and idler have the same spatter thrown onto it from the water pump. The reason for putting this fan on 2x's is my gasket got folded over inside the pump on the side that is hard to see. Then leaked like a sieve. Good thing I did my checks with DI water and not G5.

Bill
 

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1997 E300D
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Rad

Like Matt said about your frame, anyone with a 96-99 E300 should be able to tell you > your gap from fan to Rad is way to close.
I will measure my gap and give you and Idea of where you need to be.

Bill
 

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W210 1996 E320 Smoke Silver. [W124 1990 300CE Artic White - Sold].
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Mr. Billy, What is in the 3rd picture?
Later: I guess it's the waterpump, the distorted proportion confused me for a moment.
 

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1997 E300D
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Water PUMP

It is looking at the water pump from the backside.
I never knew for sure where I had this yellowish spatter that you can see on the idler and the main pulley. That same crud was in the bottom of my weep hole, and I could see it on the shaft in the upper weep hole.

Bill
 

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2001-W210-CAPRI METALIC BLUE-/ 2002-W210 E300D
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Great Pics thanks....

I had to do a water pump on exactly the same car as yours just a few miles north of you in Turiff scotland. I REALLY wish I had these pics and the trick with the allen wrench would have really helped.
As the cause, I hate to be the one to bring this up but... are any of your neighbors missing a cat? they do like to sleep on warm motors and frequently end up in the fan.

B
 
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