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scanned and pulled this code. i need help on what needs to be exactly fixed.
pics would help me alot. thanks members.
 

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TEST:


1. Disconnect hose from air pump to diverter valve to test flow. Use a fully-functional Mercedes-Benz compatible scan tool to access activations menu and activate air pump. If not available, disconnect connector on the air pump and apply battery (B+) power and ground to the 2 wires on the air pump to operate it while engine is running. The flow output should be very strong, as would a very powerful hair dryer be.

2. Remove the diverter valve behind air pump and attempt to blow through it. There should be no flow. Attach a hand vacuum tester to the vacuum connection on the valve and apply 12" vacuum, it should hold vacuum without bleeding off. You should be able to blow through the valve freely.

3. Test the flow through the switchover valve Y32 on the front of the engine by disconnecting the connector, and applying B+ power and ground to the 2 terminals on Y32. Connect vacuum tester to the hose connection to engine vacuum from intake manifold and pump vacuum. There should be good flow through the solenoid to the hose leading to diverter valve. Disconnect the two jumper wires. Then there should be no flow to the diverter valve hose when pumping the vacuum tester.

4. Backprobe the connector at pre-catalyst O2 to read the actual voltage signal on the Yellow (Yl)+ wire and Black (Bk)- wire using a Digital Multimeter (DMM). Take care not to damage the wire or terminals in the connector. Start the engine and bring to operating temperature. Verify all hose connections are hooked up for Air injection system. Use M-B scanner to activate air pump system or if not available, disconnect the air pump connector and Y32 connector and use jumper wires to activate the air injection system. Do not backprobe the connectors on air pump or Y32 with power or ground jumper wires, nor apply wire connections to the computer side of connector, you will destroy the computer. Connect the B+ and ground wires to the air pump and Y32 as before, with the connectors disconnected. The air pump should run and Y32 should click on. The reading on O2 should drop to below 0.10 V at idle.








A P0411 - Is a secondary air injection malfunction. Inspect the belt operating the secondary air pump. Use the scanner to clear DTC's. Locate the secondary air pump solenoid, on the front of the engine. One vacuum connection is manifold vacuum, the other is switched vacuum to the diverter valve. Use a hand vacuum pump, to connect to this hose, to test the diverter valve to make sure it will hold vacuum when supplied. If OK, the flow through diverter valve will have to be tested. Remove the valve and blow through it, it should be closed. Apply vacuum, it should open so that you can blow through it. If that tests OK, start the engine cold and check for a voltage supply from the hot film Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF)/Sequential Fuel Injection Control Unit to the solenoid and air pump clutch, Key ON Engine Running (KOER). It should be powered about 15 seconds after start up on a cold engine. If this is OK, check the air flow out of the pump when it is running. It should have a good strong flow. Verify the solenoid switches vacuum through it when activated.
 

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scanned and pulled this code. i need help on what needs to be exactly fixed.
pics would help me alot. thanks members.
Please read 1995 SL320 - P0411 code and you will find that even an O2 sensor may throw this code.

Plenty of information is available if you 'search' the forum or Google SL320 P0411.
 

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The reason I asked the difference between P0411 and P0410 is because I've been chasing P0410 for quite a while. My generic scanner's error code book states "P0410=Secondary air injection system malfunction" and "P0411=Secondary air injection system incorrect flow."

I've performed tests 1 to 3 mentioned by Mercedes Mechanic and found everything ok. But, I still get P0410 once in a while.

Based on Mercedes Mechanic's comment (test number 4) O2 sensor is related to the P0411. So, I want to find out if there is a possibility the O2 sensor is also related to P0410.

(Note:I already ordered O2 sensors.)
 

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The flow out of the pump, should feel like a hair dryer set to high.
 

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I've performed tests 1 to 3 mentioned by Mercedes Mechanic and found everything ok. But, I still get P0410 once in a while.
Define once in a while.
 

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scanned and pulled this code. i need help on what needs to be exactly fixed.
pics would help me alot. thanks members.
I have two Benz in the driveway ATM, niether of which has your engine.


Take a picture and I will point out the EGR system parts.
 

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Code PO410: Chances are your air pump has died. When you open the hood, the air pump is an electrical device and is located to the lower left front of the engine. There is an electrical two prong plug on the top of it. It is NOT connected to the drive belt. You may find one of these at a bone yard or ebay for cheap, otherwise, it's about $400.00.
 

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Code PO410: Chances are your air pump has died. When you open the hood, the air pump is an electrical device and is located to the lower left front of the engine. There is an electrical two prong plug on the top of it. It is NOT connected to the drive belt. You may find one of these at a bone yard or ebay for cheap, otherwise, it's about $400.00.
He has already tested the parts. I gave him the test's on page one.

This is a random problem, so the diagnosis is a little more intricate then just thinking its one problem. It could turn out the wiring going to it has lost its ground, or is corroded and not completly shorted yet. Or a fault in the voltage regulator causing a spike only when the EGR is commanded to come on. At this point it is up in the air.

Changing random parts isnt going to do a thing if it is a ECM programing problem, or if the EGR tube is partically plugged.

The proper way is to test, then replace if it does not pass the test.
 

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Red circle, EGR valve. Green line is the vacuum line to it.

Under the black front cover (yellow circle) is a small vacuum valve that is in the area of the smaller black circle.

The blue line is the electrical wiring going to the valve, it runs under the cover towards the drivers side and then running along the valve cover/ intake towards the firewall.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
thank you. i would have been lost with this.

also does the egr has a gasket? if so can it be brought at a local pepboys or is this dealer only?
 
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