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Registered
1995 e320, 2002 ml320
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17 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Good day all
my 95 e320 has no heat or air. Checked all fuses . Any ideas . I'm Washington dc area and it's getting colder and colder everday

thansk for the help
 

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Premium Member
'92 300TE 4matic 280,000miles, '92 300TE 4Matic 'Ice Blue Metalic' 101,000miles
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10,394 Posts
Check the recent posts that show a pic of the external strip fuse that is separate from all the others, in its own little box.

Kevin
 

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Registered
1995 e320, 2002 ml320
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17 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
1995 no heat or air e320

Checked that fuse as well. Its in good working order
 

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Premium Member
'92 300TE 4matic 280,000miles, '92 300TE 4Matic 'Ice Blue Metalic' 101,000miles
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10,394 Posts
They get hairline cracks that are almost invisible-did you do a continuity test on it? If so, It sounds like your blower motor has failed-one possibility. Another would be your climate control switch. Do you have a little heat that trickles out of the vents (just not fan driven)? The blower motor regulator is, unfortunately, under the blower motor and it can fail as well. I'm assuming of course, that nothing changed much between '92 and '95.

There's a good DIY guide on how to get to the blower motor-do a search here. These motors and/or regulators are known to fail in the 124 series.

Kevin
 

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1995 e320, 2002 ml320
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17 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
no heat or air

Thanks Kevin,
I do get heat when moving. But nothing at stand still. How do I check the blower motor or it there a diagram or pictures of someone who may have compeleted this .



thanks all
 

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Premium Member
'92 300TE 4matic 280,000miles, '92 300TE 4Matic 'Ice Blue Metalic' 101,000miles
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10,394 Posts
As was suggested, it could also be a failure of the mono valve itself-like being stuck and not letting proper flow through. The mono valve feeds the aux water pump. There are kits that are much less than a new one. If you are 'adventurous', you can take it off and apart, clean it and reinstall. You have nothing to lose but your time.:rolleyes:

So are you saying that while driving at speed, you have air flowing with force-like it's fan driven....but nothing at idle?

Kevin
 

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Registered
1995 e320, 2002 ml320
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17 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I think the air is more forced in by the speed of the car. Do you know where mono valve is ??
thanks
 

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Registered
1995 e320, 2002 ml320
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17 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I don't hear the motor turning on at all. At this point, I just don't know if its getting power
 

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W124 Moderator
86 190E 2.3L 16V, 2 95 320TE's, 02 S500
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12,746 Posts
Nick,

If you are getting "faint" air from the vents while moving, your problem is the blower motor and or regulator. That's assuming you are dead sure the strip fuse is good. In the DIY section of this form you'll find a link on how to remove the blower motor. It isn't a difficult job, just time consuming. Minimal tools are needed.

Just follow the link and you'll be in business. If in fact your motor is dead, it will be better to purchase an entire blower motor and squirrel cage assembly. The squirrel cage is very difficult to remove from the blower shafts without distroying it.

Good Luck,

Jayare
 

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Premium Member
'92 300TE 4matic 280,000miles, '92 300TE 4Matic 'Ice Blue Metalic' 101,000miles
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10,394 Posts
I don't hear the motor turning on at all. At this point, I just don't know if its getting power
More likely it's stalled because the brushes are worn down low and the motor won't turn the shaft....or like mine was, the bearings have somewhat seized. One old fail-safe test for worn brushes, was to turn the heat on and then slam the door-usually causing the blower to start. If the mono valve was stuck, you would not be getting any warm air...probably just cool.

Impossible to tell without actually being there, but it does sound like the classic blower motor issues. As I said before, it's an easy fix to search out here for directions on dismantling.

The mono valve (at least in my car), is located on the passenger wheel well, under the hood-you can trace the water pump hoses to it.

Kevin
 

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Registered
1995 e320, 2002 ml320
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17 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Thanks to all,

The strip fuze looks ok. Still connected on both ends. Any ideas where I may find a rebuild or new motor/ blower. And where is the regulator located ??
 

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W124 Moderator
86 190E 2.3L 16V, 2 95 320TE's, 02 S500
Joined
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12,746 Posts
Nick,

Was the "no air" problem sudden? I'd strongly suggest getting a phillips screw driver and removing the strip fuse. As mentioned before, they can "look" good but have a hairline crack in them. Looking good and being good are two different things.

Several choices for blower motors. autohausaz.com, allmercedes.com, autopartsplace.com The regulator is mounted beneath the blower motor. You must remove one to get to the other. Take some time and read the DIY thread on this subject. If you have minimal DIY skills and a reasonable selection of tools, you will have the motor removed and replaced in 3 hours.

Good Luck,

Jayare
 

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Premium Member
'92 300TE 4matic 280,000miles, '92 300TE 4Matic 'Ice Blue Metalic' 101,000miles
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10,394 Posts
There are a lot of threads with this problem running concurrently (no duh, it's winter)...I'm even starting to get mixed up on who said what. Don't just look at the fuse; take it out and make sure that it's intact or do the continuity test with an VOM.

No magic bullet here...if the blower is still not working, then you'll have to dig for it like the rest of us have done in the past. Have you tried using just defrost (?)-that will make the blower come on no matter what your cabin temp is.

Kevin
 

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Registered
1995 e320, 2002 ml320
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17 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
I tired defrost ......nothing ! . The rear depfrost works. What can I use to replace the current fuse or how to test if its good or bad.

thanks again
 

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Premium Member
'92 300TE 4matic 280,000miles, '92 300TE 4Matic 'Ice Blue Metalic' 101,000miles
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10,394 Posts
Buy a cheap VOM at like Home Depot...you can get an analog one for $15 or less. You can use it for other things as well.....set it for continuity (follow its directions) and put one probe on one side of the foil and the other probe on the opposite side.....like on the opposing screws that hold the strip in....just make sure they aren't corroded. If the strip is intact, you should have continuity...motor not running.

Another way...set your VOM for something above 15 volts DC and again touch the opposite screws of the strip while the motor is running. If you have continuity, you'll also have 13 volts+ going through the strip, with the probes on either end.

If as in "rear defrost" you're talking about the coil that defrosts the rear window...I don't remember that being on the same circuit with the strip fuse. If I remember correctly, the strip fuse is just for the blower motor.

Kevin
 
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