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Discussion Starter #21
Bingo!!!! I think you found the problem, and your right indeed, No CKP sensor....No start(guaranteed). On my E320, the ring on that CKP sensor plug is a direct short to battery ground. Same as the Camshaft sensor plug ring.
Take connector 2 off the ECU and check the CKP sensor plug all the way back to that connector. The center pin should ohm out to pin30 and the ring should ohm out to pin 29. If that checks out ok then you probably have a corroded solder join inside the ECU. There are 2 connectors going to the ECU so make sure your test the right one. Could even be a bent pin in the connector cable assembly or on the ECU connector port so look close.
At this point all you need is ground on that CKP sensor ring and the car should start. Even if you have to run an external wire(it will not damage the ECU). Your MAF plug test results are perfect. You're gettin close.
You ever see a dog waiting for its' best human to show up? That's me waiting to see if you'd reply. You live in Canada...I'm in Savannah Ga. You ever show up here you got a place to stay and I'll cook you the best steak you ever had...and any significant others.

I was going to ask you if I could ground that ring. The way I gather this works is the CKP sensor completes/breaks a circuit every time the flywheel magnet passes by...creating an electrical impulse via the ECU/Computer and is sent to coils/injectors. If I find that pin #29 has no continuity... place a ground on the ring and I'm good... (sorry I had to)... Eh???

That is, if there is continuity from pin 29/30, then the harness sensor is functional and the ECU is needing a repair or the magnet on the flywheel is damaged(or is there a gap between the flywheel(TDC) and the magnet that when passes by breaks the magnetic field??? As you can tell, I'm not in the 21st century on engines. I like to understand how things work.

Thank you again Astronomer.
 

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You ever see a dog waiting for its' best human to show up? That's me waiting to see if you'd reply. You live in Canada...I'm in Savannah Ga. You ever show up here you got a place to stay and I'll cook you the best steak you ever had...and any significant others.

I was going to ask you if I could ground that ring. The way I gather this works is the CKP sensor completes/breaks a circuit every time the flywheel magnet passes by...creating an electrical impulse via the ECU/Computer and is sent to coils/injectors. If I find that pin #29 has no continuity... place a ground on the ring and I'm good... (sorry I had to)... Eh???

That is, if there is continuity from pin 29/30, then the harness sensor is functional and the ECU is needing a repair or the magnet on the flywheel is damaged(or is there a gap between the flywheel(TDC) and the magnet that when passes by breaks the magnetic field??? As you can tell, I'm not in the 21st century on engines. I like to understand how things work.

Thank you again Astronomer.
Any luck? No good deed goes unpunished. My hot no starting problem has returned. Restarting my hot engine within 5 minutes works fine. Any longer and I have to wait a full 45 minutes. No codes thrown on pin 8 or 14.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Any luck? No good deed goes unpunished. My hot no starting problem has returned. Restarting my hot engine within 5 minutes works fine. Any longer and I have to wait a full 45 minutes. No codes thrown on pin 8 or 14.
Man please. I never had so much trouble with any of the cars in the 70's. The only thing that ever gave me a fit was a weak spring in a distributor that I couldn't figure out. An old car mechanic had seen it before and showed me the problem.
Sorry you are having trouble.

As far as mine...I got continuity on pin 29 and 30 so the harness is good. New OVP in and still crank no start...code 24 back. Next I plan to run a ground wire to the ring on the sensor and attempt a start.

Something interesting about the OVP...the windows rolled down when I unlocked the door. It has never done that in the years I've been in it. I going to try the reset procedure I read about in my voluminous reading here.

As far as hot starting issue for you...sounds like a security issue. My suburban had the VATS/Pass Key security system that cut out the fuel rails. $1500 reprogram of the computer or disconnect the battery and go through the routine of reprogram with the key on/off for 30minutes. I use it in my yard to haul boats around.
Modern ingenuity Good luck and I'll keep you apprised and hope you do the same..
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Any luck? No good deed goes unpunished. My hot no starting problem has returned. Restarting my hot engine within 5 minutes works fine. Any longer and I have to wait a full 45 minutes. No codes thrown on pin 8 or 14.
You are the first to know other than 3 dogs, 4 cats, and a pot bellied pig...all who have been watching me go under the car for 2 weeks. Grounded the CKP to the transmission ground main and fired on 2nd starter turn. DM LED is working. I'll check the codes after a couple of more backflips.

THANK YOU Astronomer!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
IMG_1319.JPG
 

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You are the first to know other than 3 dogs, 4 cats, and a pot bellied pig...all who have been watching me go under the car for 2 weeks. Grounded the CKP to the transmission ground main and fired on 2nd starter turn. DM LED is working. I'll check the codes after a couple of more backflips.

THANK YOU Astronomer!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! View attachment 2604914
[/QUOTE
My wife and I had a much needed laugh from that photo. Glad to be of assistance.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I think that Cali cars have a separate diagnostic module (DM) that drives that LED and pin 3 (I believe the requirement for the LED was a so called "OBDI" requirement). This module is powered via the OVP and via Fuse 9 (the memory backup power). The DM collects status information from the ECU and the CC/ICS via the CAN bus but does not control engine functions directly, so a lack of response from the DM does not necessarily mean the ECU is not functioning.
After grounding the CPK sensor(plug from the wire harness) with a wire to frame... the DM started working again...as well as the engine fired right up.

Too bad I don't have a book on this engine, then I could follow:
" DM collects status information from the ECU and the CC/ICS via the CAN bus but does not control engine functions directly..."
I'll take some pictures and then ask questions.
 

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I can't believe the amount of 1995 E320 issues out there suddenly. It's like the curse of the evil mercedes fairy.
Interesting your DM LED works again at pin3. Mine used to show 1 flash meaning no codes. Now I get nothing. Pin 8 and 14 give off 1 flash when I test for codes. Here's my email address; [email protected]
Send me your phone number via email. I'll call you and we can talk at length. I have a Pacific NorthWest Canadian accent so you'll know it's me. Haaaaa. And I don't say....eh
 

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Discussion Starter #28
I can't believe the amount of 1995 E320 issues out there suddenly. It's like the curse of the evil mercedes fairy.
Interesting your DM LED works again at pin3. Mine used to show 1 flash meaning no codes. Now I get nothing. Pin 8 and 14 give off 1 flash when I test for codes. Here's my email address; [email protected]
Send me your phone number via email. I'll call you and we can talk at length. I have a Pacific NorthWest Canadian accent so you'll know it's me. Haaaaa. And I don't say....eh
You got it my man. I'd rather do that than typing and pm-ing. I'll do it after this post.

All I did was strip a wire and placed it in the slot on the side of the CKP wire harness plug and zip tied it to the the ground harness on the transmission. Fired second turn of starter and ran rough. Checked codes and no limp mode. Found a bad coil/ replaced (3 off ebay for $30 )/ new plugs( $4o something)... restarted on first crank and runs like new. I'm shocked.

I mean it runs like a Scalded Dog....Idles like brand new...until one of the gazillion sensors craps out. I'm about KISS...keep it simple stupid.

They could design that CKP sensor to ground to the bell housing via the crappy 5mm torx bolt stool... with some sort of strap or plate . When I redo the connection with solder and a better attachment spot , I'll post up a picture.

I'm sending you the email tonight after many cold ones...hope it gets through.

BTW, (by the way...eh) You ever seen a pig in a MB(should be MP for money pit)...I have.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
You got it my man. I'd rather do that than typing and pm-ing. I'll do it after this post.

All I did was strip a wire and placed it in the slot on the side of the CKP wire harness plug and zip tied it to the the ground harness on the transmission. Fired second turn of starter and ran rough. Checked codes and no limp mode. Found a bad coil/ replaced (3 off ebay for $30 )/ new plugs( $4o something)... restarted on first crank and runs like new. I'm shocked.

I mean it runs like a Scalded Dog....Idles like brand new...until one of the gazillion sensors craps out. I'm about KISS...keep it simple stupid.

They could design that CKP sensor to ground to the bell housing via the crappy 5mm torx bolt stool... with some sort of strap or plate . When I redo the connection with solder and a better attachment spot , I'll post up a picture.

I'm sending you the email tonight after many cold ones...hope it gets through.

BTW, (by the way...eh) You ever seen a pig in a MB(should be MP for money pit)...I have.
I mean it runs like a Scalded Dog / .Pig !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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