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'92 300TE 4matic 280,000miles, '92 300TE 4Matic 'Ice Blue Metalic' 101,000miles
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yeah, I 2nd the Wheelskin thing too... Gotta bea real Wheelskin branded one, when I've trie dother brands in the past, they just weren't as nice.

I've done those on Volvo leather wrapped wheels as well as my Cabrio wheel.. The 25-30 year old steering wheels get sticky in hot weather when your hands are sweaty, and started coming off.

Installed carefully, the Wheelskin fits like a glove. I do suggest getting a metal thimble big enough for a middle finger to help push that needle through over and over and over, and get the stitching as tight as you can. When you knot off the ends at the 6-oclock point, leave about 1/2" or so on each end, and use a very small flat screwdriver to push the thread ends under the other stitches so they don't fray and unravel.
I made the mistake on the first one of not offsetting the Wheelskin seam from the factory seam. In other words, don't lay the Wheelskin seem right over the factory wheel seam.

Kevin
 

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Discussion Starter #22
2633671
I rolled the front fenders and added some 1inch bushings as spacers. Now I’m needing to do exhaust as the resonator and muffler were all rusted and gross(especially the tubing in between). I’m thinking remove the cat and put a muffler with two inlets and one outlet. I’m wondering how important it is to maintain velocity After the muffler. Let’s just say tentatively I set up a Flowmaster 40 series To best match the 1.73 inch ID tubes coming from the x pipe and then do either a 2.5 inch single tailpipe or 3 inch single.
The OEM area of the x pipe outlets is approximately 1.73 inches for a total area of 4.7(both). Going into a single would mean 2.45 in ID to maintain that velocity. Going into a 3 inch I’d have over 6 sq inch area(loss in velocity). Additionally I’m considering adding a manual switch to advance the intake timing on demand. And perhaps eventually adding a NOS wet sprayer kit and an air fuel ratio monitor. Of course I’m gonna talk to my friend who owns an exhaust shop and my friend at the Mercedes shop.
 

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1995 E320 Sedan
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678 Posts
View attachment 2633671 I rolled the front fenders and added some 1inch bushings as spacers. Now I’m needing to do exhaust as the resonator and muffler were all rusted and gross(especially the tubing in between). I’m thinking remove the cat and put a muffler with two inlets and one outlet. I’m wondering how important it is to maintain velocity After the muffler. Let’s just say tentatively I set up a Flowmaster 40 series To best match the 1.73 inch ID tubes coming from the x pipe and then do either a 2.5 inch single tailpipe or 3 inch single.
The OEM area of the x pipe outlets is approximately 1.73 inches for a total area of 4.7(both). Going into a single would mean 2.45 in ID to maintain that velocity. Going into a 3 inch I’d have over 6 sq inch area(loss in velocity). Additionally I’m considering adding a manual switch to advance the intake timing on demand. And perhaps eventually adding a NOS wet sprayer kit and an air fuel ratio monitor. Of course I’m gonna talk to my friend who owns an exhaust shop and my friend at the Mercedes shop.
I have had a friend who installed the flow master 40 series and was disappointed with the exhaust drone so upgrade to some borla exhaust. I would recommend manga flow on our car. I’ve been thinking about an exhaust, I want one with an adjustable valve to open and close when I want it loud or quite. I am surprised you are thinking of adding NOS, update us on that! I want to gain power but can’t afford to turbo. But wouldn’t do NOS cause it cost too much per bottle.


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Discussion Starter #25
Yeah I’ve only been reading up on the NOS little by little for a week or so, thus I’m just beginning to learn some basics about it. I was thinking of maybe just buying a big tank because I imagine my local Airgas sells it. Then I could just set up a refill system to refill the little bottle for the car. I’ll check with them soon because I’m about to have to swap out the tank for my welder. The more I drive and work on this car, the more I love it. I really enjoy the high compression inline six and I’m extremely impressed with the useable torque and power. My favorite Diesel engine is the P pumped 12 valve Cummins which I have in my pickup. And I’m starting to think this will be one of my favorite gas engines.
 

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04 odyssey (265k) 1995 E320 wagon (295k)
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The m104 is a great engine. Keep an eye on cooling system and you shouldn't ever need a head gasket.
 

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1995 W124 E320 Cabrio
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The idle hunt is almost certainly a bad ETA ("throttle body")--look on eBay for a new one, I just picked one up for my 95 Cabrio for ~$350. What I haven't seen discussed on here is that the throttle body needs to be synchronized with the ECU, so establish a good relationship with an independent Mercedes shop in your area. Also know that your car will never function properly unless the engine wiring harness has been replaced--there are 2 harness options for 95, early 95 and late 95, the part numbers are somewhere on here. My mechanic had an early 95 harness ready to go, just had to retrofit 2 sensors as I have a late 95 w124. While you're at it, you should replace the oil sending harness too (I've heard it called the "starter harness") along with the oil pressure sensor. Also make sure your coolant temp sensor, aux fan/relay and viscous fan clutch are good. I was getting a short in my lighting system, and it turned out the trunk light harness was crimped and blowing the fuse, which caused other lighting issues (tail light & dash lighting).

Watch your temp, watch your temp, watch your temp. Many preventive things can be done to avoid head gasket issues. The M104 has a delicate head gasket, so the lower you can keep your temp, the better. After I had a full valve job + head gasket replacement/machining, I had my mech install a relay that turns the electric fans on whenever the AC is on.

These cars are so brilliantly connected. Never underestimate the power of this forum to help you piece together issues. And never, ever take it to an MB dealership.
 

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1995 E320 Sedan
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Yeah I’ve only been reading up on the NOS little by little for a week or so, thus I’m just beginning to learn some basics about it. I was thinking of maybe just buying a big tank because I imagine my local Airgas sells it. Then I could just set up a refill system to refill the little bottle for the car. I’ll check with them soon because I’m about to have to swap out the tank for my welder. The more I drive and work on this car, the more I love it. I really enjoy the high compression inline six and I’m extremely impressed with the useable torque and power. My favorite Diesel engine is the P pumped 12 valve Cummins which I have in my pickup. And I’m starting to think this will be one of my favorite gas engines.
I love the engine too and the car obviously. I have been looking at e36 amg conversions and turbo upgrades, they are both pricey but the outcome is worth it to me, sadly the cars are just not worth much which makes them extremely risky to drive on the road.


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1995 E320 Sedan
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The idle hunt is almost certainly a bad ETA ("throttle body")--look on eBay for a new one, I just picked one up for my 95 Cabrio for ~$350. What I haven't seen discussed on here is that the throttle body needs to be synchronized with the ECU, so establish a good relationship with an independent Mercedes shop in your area. Also know that your car will never function properly unless the engine wiring harness has been replaced--there are 2 harness options for 95, early 95 and late 95, the part numbers are somewhere on here. My mechanic had an early 95 harness ready to go, just had to retrofit 2 sensors as I have a late 95 w124. While you're at it, you should replace the oil sending harness too (I've heard it called the "starter harness") along with the oil pressure sensor. Also make sure your coolant temp sensor, aux fan/relay and viscous fan clutch are good. I was getting a short in my lighting system, and it turned out the trunk light harness was crimped and blowing the fuse, which caused other lighting issues (tail light & dash lighting).

Watch your temp, watch your temp, watch your temp. Many preventive things can be done to avoid head gasket issues. The M104 has a delicate head gasket, so the lower you can keep your temp, the better. After I had a full valve job + head gasket replacement/machining, I had my mech install a relay that turns the electric fans on whenever the AC is on.

These cars are so brilliantly connected. Never underestimate the power of this forum to help you piece together issues. And never, ever take it to an MB dealership.
Agree with everything except the throttle body doesn’t need to be synchronized with the ECU. My car was a nightmare to drive until I replaced the original eco junk engine wiring harness with a rebuilt one from Delphi. Then still had a check engine light and some idle issues. Bought a rebuilt throttle body from eBay and shipped mine in to remove the core charge for an outcome of about $350. All you have to do is get a asr throttle body if your car as asr and a non asr one if your car doesn’t. The ecu on a w124 can’t be programmed by the Mercedes shops or anyone it is factory tuned and it is stuck like that unfortunately. I replaced the throttle body my self at home with a couple of hand tools and a new gasket, car idle Is smooth like butter now.


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'95 E300 DIESEL, '91 600SEL, '92 600SEL
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It all depends if your car has ASR. ASR equipped cars are 1st gen drive by wire systems a.k.a no throttle cable. IF you do have ASR, then you should calibrate the throttle body whenever the power is cut such as after battery replacement. The calibration procedure allows the ECU to relearn how far the throttle body can be opened.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
The idle hunt is almost certainly a bad ETA ("throttle body")--look on eBay for a new one, I just picked one up for my 95 Cabrio for ~$350. What I haven't seen discussed on here is that the throttle body needs to be synchronized with the ECU, so establish a good relationship with an independent Mercedes shop in your area. Also know that your car will never function properly unless the engine wiring harness has been replaced--there are 2 harness options for 95, early 95 and late 95, the part numbers are somewhere on here. My mechanic had an early 95 harness ready to go, just had to retrofit 2 sensors as I have a late 95 w124. While you're at it, you should replace the oil sending harness too (I've heard it called the "starter harness") along with the oil pressure sensor. Also make sure your coolant temp sensor, aux fan/relay and viscous fan clutch are good. I was getting a short in my lighting system, and it turned out the trunk light harness was crimped and blowing the fuse, which caused other lighting issues (tail light & dash lighting).

Watch your temp, watch your temp, watch your temp. Many preventive things can be done to avoid head gasket issues. The M104 has a delicate head gasket, so the lower you can keep your temp, the better. After I had a full valve job + head gasket replacement/machining, I had my mech install a relay that turns the electric fans on whenever the AC is on.

These cars are so brilliantly connected. Never underestimate the power of this forum to help you piece together issues. And never, ever take it to an MB dealership.
The idle hunt issue was the fuel pressure regulator which I had a new one put in. Fixed the issue. Now I’m looking to learn more about the intake cam phaser since I want to try adding a manual override. IE, when does it advance timing. Is it based off throttle position, load, or just RPM?
 

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04 odyssey (265k) 1995 E320 wagon (295k)
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I had no issues with my asr eta.
Just plug and play install
 
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