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Discussion Starter #1
It’s got some things not working, but drives pretty darn good, especially for $1,000. 150,000 miles, signals work sometimes, needs new window regulators, blower motor won’t turn on(I think the control panel is culprit as it’s not doing anything). And it has some overly flashy big bling bling chrome rims I’d like to get rid of.

it idle hunts real bad and is a pain to start(sometimes). If I pinch the vacuum hose going into the fuel pressure regulator, the idle smooths out nicely and upon releasing it, the engine nearly quits. I wonder why...

I don’t know anything about Mercedes but know of a good local Mercedes shop. I bought this to daily drive and fixit up as I do.
 

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1987 560 SL, 1990 300E 4Matic
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501 Posts
Welcome, and congratulations on your new 124! You may want to check out the DIY tread. Best wishes in bringing it back to it's full potential!
 

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'95 E300 DIESEL, '91 600SEL, '92 600SEL
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17,207 Posts
You've got at least a bad fuel pressure regulator, and possibly eco junk disease to deal with. Replace the regulator with a new Bosch branded unit.

Also be aware, at 150K start saving up for a new transmission. 150K is the average lifespan.

Blower motor might be as simply as the strip fuse on the strut tower. Replace that fuse and ALL fuses in the fuse box with the updated copper core ceramic type such as those from Flosser. Also do NOT, exceed the Amp on the fuses under any circumstances unless you like car-B-Qs
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thank you all for the support and advice so far. What components in these transmissions usually fail at 150,000? Just normal wear stuff such as seals, friction material, bushings, bearings, perhaps oil pump, torque converter? Are these torque converters worth rebuilding, or are they generally just replaced?
I have no idea what these transmissions are like to work on, but I rebuild the 47rh in my Dodge Ram no problem and like doing so. I’m probably going to clean or replace the EGR valve at the same time I do the fuel pressure regulator.

I have yet to take it to the local Mercedes shop and get some things diagnosed. From the information I gained when questioning previous owner they never took it to a acceptable (in my opinion) mechanic or shop. Although, there are only a few people I let work on any machines I have and I usually just do mechanic work myself.
 

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1995 E320 2 Door Coupe 109,000km
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53 Posts
There's a bunch of things you should look at before it hits you at the worst time; Check for leaking fuel pumps and/or fuel filter. There is a 3 in1 relay box behind the fuse block. It controls signal lights, intermittent wipers, and rear defrost. Take it apart and re-solder everything. The blower motor is probably the fuse as mention above in the thread. If the heater blows cold air all the time, check the little DC motor water pump. It's on the passenger side engine compartment near the fire wall. Mine was seized(check valve was ok). This is an expensive replacement so get strapped in cause you gotta have heat. Or you can take the motor out(very easy) and service it. There's a really good thread that shows you what to do in order to loosen up the motor shaft. You can't just replace the motor pump, you gotta buy the entire assembly(ouch). Check the front seat head rests for motor movement. There is a gear housing that cracks inside the seat. Fix it yourself or replace it. Again, there is a really good thread on this. The dash lights dimmer switch goes flakey(big job). All those dash lights are tiny little 1watt bulbs. You probably have a few that are burned out. A 1995 E320 uses the old OB1 blinking LED system for engine codes. Youtube has some good videos on how to check for codes. If you got no cruise control, it's a bad throttle body(ECO Junk wiring harness is what we call it). Speaking of ECO junk wiring, make certain that the engine harness has been replaced(no delay, it's serious). Other needling little things are; Seatbelt handover arm probably has a worn out plastic triangle ring. The trunk lid rubber slam blocks are probably rotted. Other than all this doom and gloom, W124's are awesome cars. Good Luck Mr. Gunslayer.
Regards
 

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I am currently looking for a budget W124, and found an E320 Coupe at a very cheap price but will require lots of work. Not sure how yours is, aesthetically speaking, but consider investing a lot of money if you plan in taking it to the stealership for repairs.

My idea is to have a rather cheap W124 in decent shape and work my way up into making it as great as I can without spending a fortune. Here the cheapest W124 goes for at least $1,200, and is definitely NOT worth saving. 24v models go for much more, from $5,000 and up -speking of sedans; Coupes, much higher. And ALL of these will usually require $2,000 in repairs, if not more.

Post some pictures whenever you can!
 

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1995 E320 2 Door Coupe 109,000km
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My 1995 E320 coupe is in new(mint) showroom condition. No rust and everything works and I mean everything. I do all my own repairs. I even rebuilt a spare throttle body. It has 109,000km. 1 previous owner who kept it garaged. He never drove it in the rain or snow. I bought it at a private estate sale. They wouldn't sell it to just anyone. I've had it 3 years now. It had all the usual little problems that you read about in these threads. It's 25 years old now and qualifies as a "Collector Plate" vehicle here in the province of B.C. Canada. As mentioned by our member "Sbaert", I'm just dreading a transmission failure.
A fixer upper w124 would be a great project. They're really good cars and it
20190831_135732.jpg
20190831_135923.jpg
shows you got Class.
 

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Astronomer you're interior looks about the same as mine which is mint too at least everything except my steering wheel which also looks like yours, cracked a little and faded in some areas. Have you ever thought about re-dying it? I'm thinking about doing mine with this Leatherique kit: Steering Wheel DIY | Leatherique Restoration Products
to make it perfect hopefully.....
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I talked to a friend who owns a local Mercedes shop today and I’m going to drop it off in a week to get some things diagnosed. From conversation we can pretty much determine that the 3 in 1 relay is not working functioning correctly. I’ll take a look and maybe clean and solder some things if needed after assessment. Either way, I will buy another one and have a spare.
I look forward to getting this car in good condition and have enjoyed driving it. The transmission actually seems to function great.
 

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1995 E320 2 Door Coupe 109,000km
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Astronomer you're interior looks about the same as mine which is mint too at least everything except my steering wheel which also looks like yours, cracked a little and faded in some areas. Have you ever thought about re-dying it? I'm thinking about doing mine with this Leatherique kit: Steering Wheel DIY | Leatherique Restoration Products
to make it perfect hopefully.....
Greetings from Western Canada. Restoring that steering wheel is my next Spring project. My wife's 1996 Jeep Grande Cherokee has the same looking dull leather steering wheel. Ive been trying to find a sure proof restoration technique for both vehicles. I hate experimenting. The Jeep is mint too. If you have any luck with the Leatherique kit let me know.
 

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'92 300TE 4matic 280,000miles, '92 300TE 4Matic 'Ice Blue Metalic' 101,000miles
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Greetings from Western Canada. Restoring that steering wheel is my next Spring project. My wife's 1996 Jeep Grande Cherokee has the same looking dull leather steering wheel. Ive been trying to find a sure proof restoration technique for both vehicles. I hate experimenting. The Jeep is mint too. If you have any luck with the Leatherique kit let me know.
Wheelskin is what I did for mine....when that wears out, you buy another. Things like wedding rings/rings are hard on leather wrapped steering wheels, not to mention the salt from your hands.

Kevin
 

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1983 300SD, 1986 560SEL, 1992 300D, 1995 E320 Wagon
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294 Posts
Greetings from Western Canada. Restoring that steering wheel is my next Spring project. My wife's 1996 Jeep Grande Cherokee has the same looking dull leather steering wheel. Ive been trying to find a sure proof restoration technique for both vehicles. I hate experimenting. The Jeep is mint too. If you have any luck with the Leatherique kit let me know.
Leatherique is awesome. Make sure tp stir it every time you go to dip the brush/rag.
(Unless you spray).
I used leatherique to paint mbtex even, door panels etc. Its not a dye per se, but a paint.
 

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1977 W123.123 1995 W124.034
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3,850 Posts
Wheelskin is what I did for mine....when that wears out, you buy another. Things like wedding rings/rings are hard on leather wrapped steering wheels, not to mention the salt from your hands.

Kevin
My new 95 E420 came with the wheelskin and while I don't hate it I am on the lookout for a nice used wheel without it since I prefer the stock feel.
 

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1993 300e 2.8
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Also, look at the thread titled “reliability high mileage “ posted about 3 mos. ago. Some good insight there on owner’s’ experiences.
 

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1990 Benz 300E 2.6 (mine) ; 1994 E320 Wagon (wife's) ; 1993 300CE Cabrio, needs some TLC
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7,103 Posts
yeah, I 2nd the Wheelskin thing too... Gotta bea real Wheelskin branded one, when I've trie dother brands in the past, they just weren't as nice.

I've done those on Volvo leather wrapped wheels as well as my Cabrio wheel.. The 25-30 year old steering wheels get sticky in hot weather when your hands are sweaty, and started coming off.

Installed carefully, the Wheelskin fits like a glove. I do suggest getting a metal thimble big enough for a middle finger to help push that needle through over and over and over, and get the stitching as tight as you can. When you knot off the ends at the 6-oclock point, leave about 1/2" or so on each end, and use a very small flat screwdriver to push the thread ends under the other stitches so they don't fray and unravel.
 
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