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Took off to go to work this morning and had the ASR light come on as I accelerated (something that does happen from time to time and especially when it is cold). I normally put it in neutral, switch the engine off and restart it again without a problem. Well not so much this morning. The starter will not turn over so I thought the starter, that is a year old, had failed and replaced the starter. No change whatsoever. I started diagnostics and was looking for a broken wire but no luck there either. The connector that is located in front and on top of the alubox with all the computers told me there is no power going out fromthere to the solenoid via the purple/white thick wire. I attempted to research further but the wire dissapear down below the ventilation box. Is it possible that the purple/white wire goes all the way to the ignition switch and that the ignition switch has failed on me? All other lights, indicators, etc etc appears normal when ignition is turned on with the exception of the warning lights in the dash. They go on for a split of a second and the only one remaining on is the cooling liquid low level warning. Anybody have a clue as to where I should start looking?

Second time in my life I've been towed home and with my job that is not an option. Any help is highly appreciated.

Kim !
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Could be the Neutral safety switch. Put it in neutral and try to start. Or have you tried this?
Yes, same result as in park. However, while I was under it and was connecting the wires to the starter I found three wires that was broke off and they all go from the RH side of the car (where the thick purple/white wire goes) and behind the alternator and then backwards. Working on getting those repaired as we type....
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Update; purple/white wire is not powered out of the ignition switch when the key is turned to start and there is power in to the ignition switch. Is there any logic in the car that will prevent this (like starter interupt), other than a faulty ignition switch?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Update; Two red wires in to the ignition switch both has power, ground is good. So one would think that by sending power to the purple wire that goes to the starter, the starter would engage, this is not the case. I am doing this with the connector off the ignition switch and thinking there might be a relay to the battery cable but I am not sure about this. Anybody knows?
 

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Update; Two red wires in to the ignition switch both has power, ground is good. So one would think that by sending power to the purple wire that goes to the starter, the starter would engage, this is not the case. I am doing this with the connector off the ignition switch and thinking there might be a relay to the battery cable but I am not sure about this. Anybody knows?
Sounds like the MY93-95 dreaded engine harness wiring, throttle body wiring, and starter wiring problems. Have you ever replaced any of these parts?
Edit: if my memory serves me well you have already replaced at least the TB wiring.

After an Advanced Search using>engine throttle starter wiring>bobterry99 I came up with the following.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r129-sl-class/1456396-engine-wont-crank-key.html#post3586122

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r129-sl-class/1193819-1993-1995-engine-wiring-harness-problems.html#post1412991

Please post us with the fix.
 

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Kim,

While the forums have a wealth of information, there is no replacement for having someone that is skilled look over the car in person. I saw you mention in another thread asking if the new SLK is any good. If you buy another car, you'll eventually have another problem at some point.

If you don't know an independent mechanic that is great, try checking out this forum:
Recommended Repair Shops - Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum

Here is the thread for Tampa FL:
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/u-s-south/1469327-fl-tampa.html
 

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Took off to go to work this morning and had the ASR light come on as I accelerated (something that does happen from time to time and especially when it is cold). I normally put it in neutral, switch the engine off and restart it again without a problem. Well not so much this morning. The starter will not turn over so I thought the starter, that is a year old, had failed and replaced the starter. No change whatsoever. I started diagnostics and was looking for a broken wire but no luck there either. The connector that is located in front and on top of the alubox with all the computers told me there is no power going out fromthere to the solenoid via the purple/white thick wire. I attempted to research further but the wire dissapear down below the ventilation box. Is it possible that the purple/white wire goes all the way to the ignition switch and that the ignition switch has failed on me? All other lights, indicators, etc etc appears normal when ignition is turned on with the exception of the warning lights in the dash. They go on for a split of a second and the only one remaining on is the cooling liquid low level warning. Anybody have a clue as to where I should start looking?

Second time in my life I've been towed home and with my job that is not an option. Any help is highly appreciated.

Kim !

Working from memory.

I think red on the switch is battery, purple /white is the traveler.
Look in to the ignition switch/lock repair threads I have a lot of posts,
some with wiring & colors.

Try my starting trick.
Steering wheel up/down, and in and out.

See if it starts, replace the switch.
Good luck.

Regards,
aam.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Sounds like the MY93-95 dreaded engine harness wiring, throttle body wiring, and starter wiring problems. Have you ever replaced any of these parts?
Edit: if my memory serves me well you have already replaced at least the TB wiring.

After an Advanced Search using>engine throttle starter wiring>bobterry99 I came up with the following.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r129-sl-class/1456396-engine-wont-crank-key.html#post3586122

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r129-sl-class/1193819-1993-1995-engine-wiring-harness-problems.html#post1412991

Please post us with the fix.
You are correct, the wiring harness has been replaced. Thanks for remembering that. I will dig into bobterry's post and see if I can learn some more there.

Kim,

While the forums have a wealth of information, there is no replacement for having someone that is skilled look over the car in person. I saw you mention in another thread asking if the new SLK is any good. If you buy another car, you'll eventually have another problem at some point.

If you don't know an independent mechanic that is great, try checking out this forum:
Recommended Repair Shops - Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum

Here is the thread for Tampa FL:
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/u-s-south/1469327-fl-tampa.html
Did I appear to you that I don't know what I am doing? I basically buildt this car and no mechanic, other than myself, has touched it for the last 100.000 miles and 11 years. In my line of work, breaking down on the road like this car did is not an option. Either I will get a newer SL500 or a new SLK.

Working from memory.

I think red on the switch is battery, purple /white is the traveler.
Look in to the ignition switch/lock repair threads I have a lot of posts,
some with wiring & colors.

Try my starting trick.
Steering wheel up/down, and in and out.

See if it starts, replace the switch.
Good luck.

Regards,
aam.
aam, thanks, I was hoping you would chime in. The switch in the ignition gave me zero forewarning that something was up, hence I am not 100% sure that is the cause. There are two red wires going in to the switch and they both have power. The purple one is the one going to the solenoid and while attempting to start, this wire never gets power. Before I pull the switch I would like to have a wiring diagram for the switch and try to short whatever needs to be shorted and see if the starter engages. I have looked on here for a few hours but have not found the wiring diagram for that switch.

Thanks again for all help folks, highly appreciated.:thumbsup:
 

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Well thanks again Lynn, that post from Bobterry was spot on. So I aimed for the garage to test some more. Sure sh*t, the purple wire now has power and it works just fine. I am suspicious however, that aam might have a point as to this happening again and the switch is singing on it's last verse. I will dig in more tomorrow but for now, everything works just fine.

Thanks again guys / gals...
 

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The ignition switch is a simple R&R for an INDY that has done it.... I messed with a switch that would not turn with the key.

I talked to an INDY MB guy and he was able to remove it quickly ..knowing the trick of the security 'locks' in the switch. he also understood the wiring.

You might go that route, ..at least for the Ign switch issues.

He might be able to remove, diagnose & install it fairly quickly.

Sometimes time is saved on specific areas of an SL....for an MB mechanic. So your labor can be spent elsewhere on the beastie.
 

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Best I can do with the wiring. Hope it helps. M1 is the starter S2/1 is the start switch. I think this is the right diagram.
 

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You are correct, the wiring harness has been replaced. Thanks for remembering that. I will dig into bobterry's post and see if I can learn some more there.

Either I will get a newer SL500 or a new SLK.

Thanks again for all help folks, highly appreciated.
Well thanks again Lynn, that post from Bobterry was spot on. I will dig in more tomorrow but for now, everything works just fine.

Thanks again guys / gals...
I'm glad to hear that Bob's post got everything working for you. When in doubt always Advance Search>bobterry99 especially for electrical issues.

But it might be the right time to find a low mileage MY01-02 SL and put on a set of H&R Sport Springs with some PS2's and your good to go. Just make sure that the front bumper has not had prior damage.
 

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Did I appear to you that I don't know what I am doing? I basically buildt this car and no mechanic, other than myself, has touched it for the last 100.000 miles and 11 years. In my line of work, breaking down on the road like this car did is not an option. Either I will get a newer SL500 or a new SLK.
You said it yourself, in your line of work, you can't have the car break down. Well not to be rude, but yeah it did appear you don't know what you're doing because you said it's the 2nd time you had to get towed. I'm not saying you're horrible, but I've had 0 problems with my car; it's never broken down. Period. I've never had an unexpected issue either.

While I admire the fact that you know much more about the SL mechanically than me, I've taken my car to people who were trained on the 129 when it came out by MBUSA and I've had them maintain my car. As much as I'd like to try to be a mechanic, at the end of the day I'm not. I program computers
 

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Even though I have performed pit stops at the 24 hours at Daytona, and I can work on most of the areas on my '88 GMC truck, and I swapped out a Northstar engine on my last car, a '93 Cadillac STS, but with the coaching from a Cadillac Northstar mechanic.............. a Mercedes Benz is very complicated for a DYI guy.

Just consider my silly idle glitch on my SL. There is 1,..2, 3,...4,5,6,7,8... different individual parts that are interconnected to manage the fuel & idle system. One can effect the other, that upsets the entire system.

An MB tech with years of practice & hands-on experience to recognize the symptoms, has a better chance of solving something because experience will guide him.

The issue is down to an owner's budget. It can be solved. But you gotta pay an MB guy to handle it.

I just don't have justification right now, for the "luxury" budget.
 

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You are correct, the wiring harness has been replaced. Thanks for remembering that. I will dig into bobterry's post and see if I can learn some more there.



Did I appear to you that I don't know what I am doing? I basically buildt this car and no mechanic, other than myself, has touched it for the last 100.000 miles and 11 years. In my line of work, breaking down on the road like this car did is not an option. Either I will get a newer SL500 or a new SLK.



aam, thanks, I was hoping you would chime in. The switch in the ignition gave me zero forewarning that something was up, hence I am not 100% sure that is the cause. There are two red wires going in to the switch and they both have power. The purple one is the one going to the solenoid and while attempting to start, this wire never gets power. Before I pull the switch I would like to have a wiring diagram for the switch and try to short whatever needs to be shorted and see if the starter engages. I have looked on here for a few hours but have not found the wiring diagram for that switch.

Thanks again for all help folks, highly appreciated.:thumbsup:
There is no diagram, OK only half.....
It is not going to help you as the numbers are referent on the harness connector and the switch.
I look at the switch numbers, f#$ the others.
OK, OK, I use them for reference. Lol.

The other thing that I forgot is, if you have an engine kill switch someplace.

But from what you describe the ign. switch is the problem.
Start from there.

The other could be the neutral switch harness. $$$$

It comes in two flavors, 12, or 14 pins, so start counting.

Regards,
aam.
 

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There is no diagram, OK only half.....
It is not going to help you as the numbers are referent on the harness connector and the switch.
I look at the switch numbers, f#$ the others.
OK, OK, I use them for reference. Lol.

The other thing that I forgot is, if you have an engine kill switch someplace.

But from what you describe the ign. switch is the problem.
Start from there.

The other could be the neutral switch harness. $$$$

It comes in two flavors, 12, or 14 pins, so start counting.

Regards,
aam.
Why are you ranting?
Please read the following that came from above.

Well thanks again Lynn, that post from Bobterry was spot on. I will dig in more tomorrow but for now, everything works just fine.
I'm glad to hear that Bob's post got everything working for you.
When in doubt always Advance Search>bobterry99 for electrical issues.
 

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My friend Lynn,
I will explain my actions and complains.

When I buy a manual $$$ I expect to get something that I can work with.
Like the old days book manuals, with a few explanations?

I am aware that these days are GONE.

But freedom of speech?
Lynn is it still here? Lol.

Not too long a go few members had problems with the ign. wiring and locks.
I was able to provide pictures of the connector, pins etc.
I did give them something similar to Bob.
Where is Bob any ways?
I hope that he is well.

I was able to provide info. up to the 10th pin.
But I was missing the two last pins.

Somehow you can convert the 14 pin in to the new switches that are 12 pins.
(14 are now outdated, til supplies last.)
The two pins need to be bridged, but to what pin?

If anybody knows please provide info..

When a switch has 12 or 14 pins, and 12 -14 wires coming in/out, I expect a diagram with that many wire codes.

So if I want to examine the ignition switch and wires, It can be done with out spending many hours working/looking for it.

The way the diagram has it, it shows 5 wires, where are the other nine?
Is it possible to find them??????

Yes,
But you have to know the system that is controlled by each one......
Alarm, courtesy, start, etc, ;)

Not a job for a do it yourself.

That's what pisses me off.

Now Bob was I think an electronic engineer?

I am not. Haha.

Regards,
aam.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well, got the new ignition switch in, and the car is running better than ever. While I was at it I also replaced the wiring harness to the oil pressure switch, oil level sensor, and the alternator. I have had my battery light on for a while and that took care of it. However, now the oil level light comes on after about two minutes of driving and I suspect the sensor itself to be broken.

Thanks again for all the help and a special thanks to bobterry, as well as Lynns for correcting the thread headline...

Kim !
 

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