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I just dont know how this can happen. And above all how and why the poster never new anything about it .It must have made lots of noises since last Crimbo .Or he has a very large stereo installed in his estate .
 

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Discussion Starter #43
LeftCoastGeek, thanks for your last post. To avoid confusion and misunderstanding in regards to the cable wire name and part number, there are two cable wires connected to the shifter assembly. See the two pictures I enclosed.

The cable wire that is connected to the shifter, in both pictures with red arrows pointing at the cable wire. Is it Wire - Pedal Assembly to Lock Out Lever" is part number 1242600451?

If that is not the correct name and part number, then what is it?
 

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one of those cables has to be pushed or pulled for it to shift out of park, its a purely mechanical thing, that cable is the one connected to the brake pedal

the other cable is pushed or pulled by the shifter when its shifted out of park, this unlocks the ignition key so you can remove it.

I'd have to see the thing up close and play with it to answer for sure which is which, but it looks to me like the one closer to 2nd is the pedal lock
 

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Discussion Starter #45
LeftCoastGeek, thanks for the latest post. I appreciated your efforts. I think the best way to make sure is the right part name and number for this cable is to go under and inspect the cable wires that hopefully still have the part numbers on them. However, based on the first pictures showing the real damage, it appeared shredded. As soon as I get the shifter remove or cables remove, I will post pictures on this thread as soon as the weather cools down. Stay tune.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
LeftCoastGeek, thanks for the latest post. I appreciated your efforts. I think the best way to make sure is the right part name and number for this cable is to go under and inspect the cable wires that hopefully still have the part numbers on them. However, based on the first pictures showing the real damage, it appeared shredded. As soon as I get the shifter remove or cables remove, I will post pictures on this thread as soon as the weather cools down. Stay tune.
The floor shifter will not move and the key in the igntion is stuck and will not turn. So I removed the 4 bolts of the floor shifter using 13/32 inch socket. The first three bolts came out with ease, while the fourth bolt on the right rear side facing me was blocked by what appeared to be this black plastic cover. Turns out to be a cover for the two cables (steering lock cable and ignition key cable) and can be remove by hand, giving me more room to remove the last of the 4 bolts on the floor shifter. After removing all of the 4 bolts and lifted the floor shifter at an angle to pulled up due to possible damage to the shaft linkage rod connector, I inspected both cables on the right side facing me of the shifter remained intact and no sign of damage.


I, then, gave myself another try to remove the key from the igntion and putting the gear in park. (shifting gears up and down with ease, not stuck at all at this time whereas before the gears shifting were not moving prior to removing the 4 bolts on the shifter). I put my foot on the brake and, much to my surprise, the key to the igntion will turn easily forward and backward and was abled to remove the key from the ignition. I suspected the other cable that locks the steering works as well, since I was not abled to turn the steering wheel to determine whether the lock steering wheel works or not, due to the fact both front wheels are on the ramps and not enough room to turn the steering wheel to lock.

I suspected the reason why I was not abled to shift the gears earlier prior to removing the shifter was because the shift shaft connector rod
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was bent.

I was abled to removed gear shifter from the floor and disconnected the two cables from the shifter. There was a zip tie wrapped around the left side (facing me) of the shifter housing. I cut that zip tie and loosen the shifter with a little force and had to push down the shifter and slide under the cross panel on the console to slip the shifter out. Part number 1292570637 was listed on the front of the shifter in the middle frame of the two holes.

Inspecting the shifter after removing it from the floor console, I noticed on the bottom of the shifter, the shifter connector rod that goes inside the bottom metal hole botttom (Shaft, Shift Linkage, part number 1242600738) is really bent out of shape, sticking outside of the bottom area of the shifter and not confining within the space of the bottom of the shifter as shown in the pictures. Which is probably why I had to removed the gear shifter from another angle to pulled out it.

I ordered a replacement shifter W124 AUTOMATIC GEAR SHIFTER ASSEMBLY part number 129 267 06 37 or 1292670637 and the shifter arrived today. After I saw this bent shaft shift linkage on the old shifter, it is best to replace with another one that also includes the shift connector rod Part: SHAFT SHIFT LINKAGE Part Number 124-260-07-38.

On the pictures, (the shifter on the right is the old one and the shifter on the left is replacement shifter I ordered and received it today) noticed the comparison of both shifters. The old gear shifter with the bent shaft shift linkage. I believed I made the right decision in replacing the gear shifter. The bent out shaft shifter linkage is probably stressed and the linkage holes on both ends is also probably bent out of shape as well.

In addition, I ordered additional bushing Automatic Transmission Gear Shift Linkage Bushings Part Number 115 992 03 10 and Automatic Transmission Shift Linkage Clips - Part Number 0009944160. Stay tune.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
I inspected the undercarriage and saw a lot of damage. After removing the damaged cross plate under the transmission flange/yoke, the tranmission mount is torned to shreds and pieces and not much of it left. Also, I noticed there is a bent up twisted shifting rod Part # 124-260-29-33 behind the flange. In order to remove the bent up shifting rod, I had to cut through a part of the rod that was sticking out blocking from the flange/yoke from moving using an angular metal cutter, at first, to give me more room to work with. However, I ended getting a powerful multi-speed dremel type tool and is a lot smaller and easier to manuever, There are some pieces left of the shifter rod behind the output flange/yoke. I was trying to removed the output flange/yoke using 30mm deep socket using a breaker bar, hoping to remove the remaining shifter rod that way. At first, the nut on the flange will not bulge, other than turning flange/yoke around. So I used an extension of a rachet wrench and put in one of the three holes of the outpute yoke/flange. (The shifter gear is in neutral, to prevent and/or possible damage to the transmission if it is gear.) This will give me leverage to stop the flange moving freely, while trying to remove the nut on the flange. I had to be very careful not to strip the nut, since when putting the 30mm deep well socket in the nut, does not give much room to loosen the nut because of the 12 point nut is very small in depth/deep to insert the 30 mm deep well socket. I became concerned about the deep well socket 30mm due to much room to play while trying to remove the output flange nut to avoid stripping the nut. So I bought another 30mm shallow socket to use instead of using the 30mm deep well socket. It turns out to be too shallow to get the nut out due to the length of the inside bolt. So I ordered deep impact deep well socket set. Hopefully, that will work to remove the output flange/yoke nut using an electric impact power wrench.

I had to replaced the damaged cross plate under the transmission output flange/yoke. I ordered and received the new cross plate replacement and the new transmission mount that goes inside the cross plate. The transmission mount replacement has a bolt sticking up and should go under this transmission plate below the output flange. The problem is there is no plate with a hole due to the damage and is missing. What is the name of this plate? Is this a separate part that bolted on the rear transmission or is part of the whole transmission housing?

The exhaust screening panel/cover/plate under the driveline and above the exhaust muffler is also bent/twisted damaged. Will go to a junkyard to find a replacement exhaust screening panel.

The Lever, Range Selector part number A1262780920 was bent. I removed it and ordered another replacement Lever, Range Selector. See the previous post concerning the Lever, Ranger Selector issue: https://www.benzworld.org/threads/what-is-the-name-and-part-number-of-this-particular-item-metal-bracket-and-how-to-remove-it-from-the-transmission.3036593/

Stay tune.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Update. I got the 30mm nut removed from inside the transmission rear case housing using the 30mm deep well impact socket using the impact power tool. It took 2 seconds. After removing the nut, the output flange came loose and the remaining rod shifter bent inside came out easy.

I then removed all of the 9 bolts from the transmission rear case housing. Drippings of transmission fluid came out. I got the housing loose but not enough to pull it out completely. I tried to pry with a screwdriver, but no luck. Is there some kind of gear pulley type tool to put on the housing in order to remove it? Any ideas, thoughts, comments, feedback, advice is greatly appreciated.
 

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Have you removed the speedo cable? The rear housing contains the speedo drive.

After you remove the bolts holding the rear case, the rear case just slides off the shaft. There is a thin washer under the flange, but I can't believe the washer is creating the resistance.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Hi David, thanks for your post. Yes, the speedo cable is removed located on the upper left side of the transmission rear case housing loosing the little bolt facing me. The speedo cable came loose. According to someone else said for me to use a wood block and hammer and pound on the housing back and forth on both sides to make further loosen from the shaft. Stay tune.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
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I finally got the rear transmission case housing removed. The reason for the case housing would not move is because there is a 3/4 inch bolt on the right side facing me that needed to be remove. Sure enough the case housing came loose with a little prodding. See pictures below:
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Discussion Starter #53
View attachment 2606913 I finally got the rear transmission case housing removed. The reason for the case housing would not move is because there is a 3/4 inch bolt on the right side facing me that needed to be remove. Sure enough the case housing came loose with a little prodding. See pictures below: View attachment 2606907 View attachment 2606909 View attachment 2606910 View attachment 2606911 View attachment 2606910 View attachment 2606909 View attachment 2606907
I must have screwed up the pictures on this thread. Here it is again
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