Mercedes-Benz Forum banner

41 - 59 of 59 Posts

·
Registered
Buncha W124's
Joined
·
2,039 Posts
So I went in and replaced my engine air filters and I noticed this white part in the middle is broken where the thread meet like the nut looking thing. I believe it is part number 1243006630? Accelerator throttle cable. Is that the correct part number and is this something I can do myself?

The accelerator seems to work fine but I don’t have a frame of reference as I think it was this way when I got it last month.
Yep, that is the correct part number. A new cable is inexpensive. I've not replaced one but it should be DIY'able without too much hassle. This is a low-priority item, the car will drive fine. A couple of mine are broken in the same place, I bought new cables, but haven't had time to replace them yet. Be careful when adjusting, if it's too tight, you'll get limp mode and error codes. Too loose and the gas pedal will have excess travel.


Replace the plastic rectangle at the end while you're in there, when these break, the car becomes undriveable unless you have duct tape or bailing wire in the trunk. P/N 202-301-00-93 (or 202-301-00-93-64), about two bucks. I've had several of these things break, it's cheap insurance.
 

·
Registered
1993 400E
Joined
·
305 Posts
Discussion Starter #42
Thanks GSXR.

A new “situation” arose this morning. My gas gauge sometimes twitches erratically then goes back to where it came from.

Will have to research that next.

I know how many miles I can travel before fill ups so I’m not too concerned there.

If it is a symptom of a bigger issue, then I will be worried.

Andy
 

·
Registered
Buncha W124's
Joined
·
2,039 Posts
A new “situation” arose this morning. My gas gauge sometimes twitches erratically then goes back to where it came from. Will have to research that next. I know how many miles I can travel before fill ups so I’m not too concerned there. If it is a symptom of a bigger issue, then I will be worried.
Nah, this isn't a big deal, as long as your odometer works properly. The twitchy gauge is usually a dirty sending unit, run the tank near empty then remove / disassemble / clean the sending unit. It's possible the gauge is at fault, but more often it's the sender. There's more info on cleaning the sender on either 500Eboard or PeachParts (forget which).
 

·
Registered
1993 400E
Joined
·
305 Posts
Discussion Starter #44
I second the nod for Victor . . . does good work.

Here's my "saga" for my W140 ('94 S500) but the symptoms are similar if not identical. Good reading for you to know what's happening.

My ETA saga is here You will find links to Victor's videos here also.
Hi Jim, after reading your whole saga, my takeaway is that the neutral safety switch is a key element to this whole puzzle?

So far, I have driven the car for 3 days and the ASR has not made any appearances. If it does resurface, the neutral safety switch is my first repair: based on the code pulled by my mechanic as well.

Let’s see what the future holds.

I do have some wear and tear items that I have programmed as the funds become available.

Andy
 

·
Registered
1993 400E
Joined
·
305 Posts
Discussion Starter #45
That pic only shows the design date of your harness. Look on the other side of same tag for the build date. The build date is the one that counts.
Are there three dates on this thing?

The one I showed, then one in the middle and then one on the right?

If the left one is design date, is the middle build date? And the last one install?

The middle number shows 04,07,92 which I am assuming is 1992, April 7. The right set of numbers I am having trouble deciphering but it looks like a 93 at the end. It is very smudged.

I think there is a fair amount of certainty that my upper harness is the biodegradable kind? When I replaced my air filter, everything seemed fine save for one pair into a clip, right near the clip.

Another day with no ASR light. Fingers crossed.

Andy
 

·
Registered
'95 E300 DIESEL, '91 600SEL, '92 600SEL
Joined
·
16,843 Posts
If the harness is made by Temic, it is guaranteed to be eco junk. If the tag shows the harness to be made by Delphi, then you're golden
 

·
Registered
'95 E300 DIESEL, '91 600SEL, '92 600SEL
Joined
·
16,843 Posts
Based on the size and shape of the tag, I suspect it to be a eco junk harness.

The replacement harness were all made by Delphi, and were printed on a larger square white or silver tag.
 

·
Registered
Buncha W124's
Joined
·
2,039 Posts
There should only be 2 dates on the tag. The newest date (F.D. or Prod-Datum) will be the manufacture date. The small tag likely indicates that harness is original, as mentioned above.

Again, these harnesses have NOTHING to do with limp mode, and will not make your car a Molotov cocktail. Examine the condition of the insulation to determine if you need to replace either harness sooner rather than later. If there is lots of bare copper showing, it would be good to replace sooner.

2608865
2608866
 

·
Registered
1993 400E
Joined
·
305 Posts
Discussion Starter #52
Will get my car back tomorrow: I hope the neutral safety switch does the trick.

Separate topic:

Does anyone have a drawing of the 1993 400e exhaust system with part numbers?

I think that the exhaust will be my next project.
 

·
Premium Member
SL's & 500E's
Joined
·
1,919 Posts
Atached is the exhaust info from Mercedes Xentry Portal, for a generic 400E420

good luck
 

Attachments

·
Registered
1993 400E
Joined
·
305 Posts
Discussion Starter #55
Got the car back this morning. Drives like a champ. Did a lot of mounts and bearings and bushings too.

Question: do I need to have all the codes cleared?

Thanks,

Andrew
 

·
Registered
Buncha W124's
Joined
·
2,039 Posts
There's no need to clear all the codes. However, next time the car acts up, you won't know which codes are new/different. So it would still be a good idea to clear everything, and check periodically to see what codes (if any) re-appear on the 6 different powertrain modules (LH, EZL/DI, E-GAS, ASR, BM/GM, and DM). You can do this yourself with a hand-held blinker box.
 

·
Registered
Buncha W124's
Joined
·
2,039 Posts
The inexpensive option is the blinker box, which you can buy for ~$40. Adding a breakout box (link) makes it easier to use, figure ~$100 total for both. This lets you read & clear codes. If you do NOT buy the breakout box, make sure to get a code reader with 1mm pins, and be careful inserting the tiny 1mm pins, as the connector is not marked with numbers for each socket - that's what the breakout box is for.

The full Monty is buying a Chinese SDS C3 or C4 kit, which will run you around $500 total including SDS kit (multiplexer / cables / hard drive with software) and the required laptop. This is a copy of what the dealership uses and does absolutely everything, including showing all live data values from every computer module, and of course reading & clearing codes. Search the forum for more info on the SDS if you are interested in that route, there are threads with in-depth information on it. The only thing the SDS cannot do is pull codes from the HVAC or SRS modules, but those are not powertrain related. You still need a blinker box for those 2 modules, but neither affects engine operation, and I almost never need to pull codes from either.
 

·
Registered
1993 400E
Joined
·
305 Posts
Discussion Starter #59
Thank you so much. Now that I have the neutral safety switch done: if I have any more issues it will be time to see victor.

Although I am sure he is a great guy and he was very nice on the phone: I hope i never have to visit him :)

Andrew
 
41 - 59 of 59 Posts
Top