Show a video of the tachometer when you shift from neutral to drive or reverse. It sounds like your idle is too high but from under the car video sound can be deceiving.
1993 300E W124, Shifts Rough from N to Reverse/Drive
Hello,
I am new to this thread. I own a 1993 300E with fairly low kms(150km). Recently had the Engine Wire Harness replaced. Prior to the replacement the shifts were rough but its gotten significantly worse now. Shifting through the gears while in drive is not as shakey. I jacked up the rear end and shifted between N and D to take the video attached. I have owned this car since September of 2019.
If anyone on here has any experience with this concern or has any ideas on what this could be. I would highly appreciate the help.
Thanks,
UK
I am new to this thread. I own a 1993 300E with fairly low kms(150km). Recently had the Engine Wire Harness replaced. Prior to the replacement the shifts were rough but its gotten significantly worse now. Shifting through the gears while in drive is not as shakey. I jacked up the rear end and shifted between N and D to take the video attached. I have owned this car since September of 2019.
If anyone on here has any experience with this concern or has any ideas on what this could be. I would highly appreciate the help.
Thanks,
UK
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Low vacuum with cause hard shifts in all gears = check no vacuum lines have been damaged dislodged especially the one on the side of the box and its diaphragm.
Excessive clutch pack clearances will feel like a hard shift = rebuild the trans.
Poorly adjusted modulating pressure will cause hard shifts = adjust on the side of the box.
Too much throttle will cause hard shifts = adjust at throttle linkage in engine bay.
Excessive clutch pack clearances will feel like a hard shift = rebuild the trans.
Poorly adjusted modulating pressure will cause hard shifts = adjust on the side of the box.
Too much throttle will cause hard shifts = adjust at throttle linkage in engine bay.
150 km is really low kilometerage. thats like 95 miles. hah hah. I hope you meant 150.000 km. 
which is, ok, 95,000 miles. my 3 124's have 280,000 miles (450.000 km), ~250k miles (400k km) and the last one we dunno, the odometer broke at 58,000 miles (93k km), its probably around 150k miles now (240k km)
which is, ok, 95,000 miles. my 3 124's have 280,000 miles (450.000 km), ~250k miles (400k km) and the last one we dunno, the odometer broke at 58,000 miles (93k km), its probably around 150k miles now (240k km)
For a nice low milage car that you may be interested in keeping for a while The Classics Centre in Orange County C.A. will rebuild it properly and better than anybody else. They do only exchange units with a core charge if it is not practical to ship to them. They are the best there is most if not all wear components are replaced with new Genuine parts and the unit is fully factory tested on the Daimler test rig for EVERYTHING before it is on-sold to you. Nobody else does that.
I see you are flying the Canadian flag. in the USA, a 1993 300E or TE would have had the 3.2L HFM-SFI system shared with the 94-95 E320's
previous years 300E / TE had the M103 SOHC 3.0L, but the US 300CE cars had a M104 DOHC 3.0L CIS-E setup. that was available in the rest of the world as a 300E-24 or TE-24
so which car and engine do you have? the Rest of the World also got more transmission options than the US ever saw.
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Is there any documentation on the Vacuum lines for the transmission? Unfortunately this car didnt come with an owners manual so I have been relying strictly on online resources.
I will post a video when I get home, but essentially the condition I see is when I start the car up when its cool ; idles at ~600RPM
I have the M104 Variant with the 3.2L engine, I believe the Transmission code is the 722.369. and I did mean 150k KM, I apologize for my fat fingers LOL.
the transmission on the US 6 cyl E's only uses vacuum for a shift retard on cold motor. the main input other than the gear shift lever is from the transmission throttle cable, and of course the engine speed and torque level
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So, I was able to spend some more time looking at the throttle linkage... and correct me if I'm wrong but theres supposed to be 2 springs on here? I have 0. one looks like it broke off and the other is MIA, is it possible that this is the root cause of my issue?
Post a photo of your linkage.
if you have ASR its more complicated. for non-ASR, here's the parts blowup, which yeah, doesn't quite show how its assembled. I see the two springs,
![2679148]()
- #38 - A1049930410 SPRING BETWEEN SLOTTED GATE LEVER AND BEARING BRACKET
- #44 - A1039930010 SPRING BETWEEN BEARING BRACKET AND THROTTLE VALVE LEVER
I'd have to say yes, on one of mine it had a spring missing to make the pedal pressure less. If the cable had of been lubed and routed correctly with no kinks then this would not have been necessary. The trans adjustment is on a threaded end of a cable that has a orange [typically] bellows around it 1/4 " or so Dia, that is the one that changes the up and down shift timing in relation to the throttle position. Together with the modulating pressure adjustment on the side of the box these two adjustments can work harmoniously to bring a smoother change and, to some extent at least, hide a worn clutch pack or excessive band clearance issue within the box itself.
What reves is it ticking over at ...i saw that this question was asked before was there any answer . I recon its running over 1000rpm much to fast and i see no proof of that ,,,,but i bet thats the reason .
He came back saying "it idles at 600", but no photos of tach to verify. But then he says he is missing return springs on the linkage. This is why I want to see photos.
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Sorry for the extended delay, gentlemen. I didnt get a lot of time yesterday. Attached are images of the throttle linkage and the broken spring I was able to find.
And here is a link to a video of it revving at idle and then after a gear change.
I know it makes me sound like a liar but the revs do spike if I were to drive the car. In the video I went from P -> R -> N ->D.
I appreciate you guys helping with this. At the moment, I am ordering the spring on the throttle linkage and see if that helps me at all. and then take a look at the pressure modulator on the transmission.
And here is a link to a video of it revving at idle and then after a gear change.
I appreciate you guys helping with this. At the moment, I am ordering the spring on the throttle linkage and see if that helps me at all. and then take a look at the pressure modulator on the transmission.
Attachments
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I think I only require #38, was able to verify that 44 is present.
See I do have ASR but the Part Catalog diagram I found does not resemble my linkage at all, whereas the non-asr is a more accurate depiction of what I have.
Also check out the small micro switch in the linkage ..the witch should be closed on a no running engine .
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Would you be able show me where this switch would be on the linkage?
Reviving this thread cause I have a similar issue. Did you manage to find a cure for this?
I have a '91 sedan 4matic (converted to 2wd) m103 with a very similar issue. My revs are doing exactly what yours are, with similar jerks from N to D. Mine is a Right Hand Drive though, and the manuals I saw online look quite different since they're for left hand drive versions.
Attaching a photo of mine. I've marked the Microswitch in GREEN, and I also see just one spring on mine. A. Can anyone pls identify if there's a spring missing? B. Marked in RED is a lever/rod that is a bit loose, can anyone find the part number for it?
Thanks in advance!
Attachments
toilet use this free workshop manual and set up the throttle
Model 124 Maintenance Manual Index ---all in there click on m103
Model 124 Maintenance Manual Index ---all in there click on m103
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