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500E many W124 Wagon and R129 500s
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Discussion Starter #1
i have a 1991 500sl which i think the term is "flaring"
when in 3 or 2 she is perfect but when in D gets to about 2500 revs then revs shoot up and no drive,if i let the revs die a bit and try again comes in with a bang and drives this happens all the time now.Ihave replaced fluid and filter in the box and fitted a new gasket ,checked hot level etc.

is this an external problem or possibly electrical , a good friend of mine says its a common fault ,but cant recall what causes it .

any advice greatfully recieved

al
 

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500E many W124 Wagon and R129 500s
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Discussion Starter #2
got all info on spring kit -

since posting have read all threads on K1 spring kit which may help -have seen full photos and looks easy enough to fit into box.

However is there any other external adjustments i could try ,as a lot of people had same problem and k1 kit did not cure ?

also seems that the spring kit is widely used on w123/w124 etc

many thanks if anyone can suggest other things to try

al:)
 

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i have a 1991 500sl which i think the term is "flaring"
when in 3 or 2 she is perfect but when in D gets to about 2500 revs then revs shoot up and no drive,if i let the revs die a bit and try again comes in with a bang and drives this happens all the time now.Ihave replaced fluid and filter in the box and fitted a new gasket ,checked hot level etc.

is this an external problem or possibly electrical , a good friend of mine says its a common fault ,but cant recall what causes it .

any advice greatfully recieved

al
Your observations should narrow the problem well but I can't think of what it would be right now either. Seems the linkage, internal or external, would have to affect it since it does not do it it 2 or 3 and only in D. I'm not sure if something electronic or vacuum affects from, or to, a mechanical linkage position or not. Hopefully, someone may come along that knows how they work. With your observations it seems someone could know exactly what it is. What does it do in between 3 and D? I don't remember if you can do that or not.
 

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since posting have read all threads on K1 spring kit which may help -have seen full photos and looks easy enough to fit into box.

However is there any other external adjustments i could try ,as a lot of people had same problem and k1 kit did not cure ?

also seems that the spring kit is widely used on w123/w124 etc

many thanks if anyone can suggest other things to try

al:)
I personally would try to pinpoint further before I started replacing things. As for adjustments, on mine (722.3) you can adjust the vacuum on the modulator to give harder and softer shifts but that doesnt fit your problem desription well.
You say it does it in all gears when in D?
 

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500E many W124 Wagon and R129 500s
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Discussion Starter #5
hi thanks for reply ,it happens when i put it into D - it will pull away till hits around 2-2500 revs then the revs fly up and no drive ,so it doesent shift up from the gear it pulls off in.

when i say it doesnt do it in 2 or 3 i mean when i manually select 2 or 3 on the shift stick.

hope thats a bit clearer .

al
 

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500E many W124 Wagon and R129 500s
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Discussion Starter #7
no it does it exactly as it says above -never gets to fourth :)

good news is mb dealer part K1 spring kit was only £4 gbp !!

for amount of components 3 springs and 2 valve type bits it is unbeliveable value :)

can anyone offer any advice what else could cause if k1 kit doesnt do the business ?:bowdown:

cheers al
 

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There is a few trans pros on here. I don't know when they may check in.
So it's like it slips out of gear completely in the middle of changing when its in D?
If that's it I can see why you thought of fluid flow or a spring. It would seem a piston, or linkage forced by something, is not moving as it should. Debri in the valve body may also be possible?

When you put it in 3 it will shift from 2 to 3 OK but in D it will not shift from 2 to 3?
 

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1999 SL500, 2004 CLK500, 2006 Cadillac SRX
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no it does it exactly as it says above -never gets to fourth :)
Okay, you see, we are getting somewhere here - as you previously did not say that it did not get into fourth gear when in D - see, sometimes that's how forums work, you answer questions and provide information previously either not given or not understood:)

So MAYFAIR's transmission will not shift into 4th gear when in D, and when it attempts to shift into 4th gear, it provides no drive and when the gas is let off and the RPMs drop, it downshifts back into 3rd with a bang (hard) - the car takes off normally in 2, 3 and D, but just never shifts into 4th gear when in D (drive)- does that about sum it up?

Does your car's transmission shifter have a W & S switch?
 

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1991 500SL V8 NEOKEN modified T/B. 2000 F350 4x4 V10. 1995 SL500
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I'm very interested in this thread as mine slips when it goes into 4th or drive as some say. Mine is the same year as yours. If I let off the gas it will shift but if I don't it slips for a second then grabs. I think it has something to do with the modulator on the transmission and the vacuum. Don't the engine lose vacuum as the engine speeds up?
 

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500E many W124 Wagon and R129 500s
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Discussion Starter #11
hi car is a 1991 does not have w s switch

- i assume it starts in 2 or maybe 1 so its not even getting into 3 never mind 4 .

basicaly all was asking was other than fitting new spring and valve kit -K1
are there any external factors that could cause same symptoms.

need more educated advice from a , been there done that guy :)

al
 

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Discussion Starter #12
There is a few trans pros on here. I don't know when they may check in.
So it's like it slips out of gear completely in the middle of changing when its in D?
If that's it I can see why you thought of fluid flow or a spring. It would seem a piston, or linkage forced by something, is not moving as it should. Debri in the valve body may also be possible?

When you put it in 3 it will shift from 2 to 3 OK but in D it will not shift from 2 to 3?
hi alchemy

as you say it shifts from 3 to 2 or 2 to3 if manualy selected ,but when iN D it pulls away in start off gear but doesnt up shift to next gear.

if theres no common other external adjustment to try i will just go ahead and cahnge the K1 spring/plastic valve kit.

cheers al
 

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hi alchemy

as you say it shifts from 3 to 2 or 2 to3 if manualy selected ,but when iN D it pulls away in start off gear but doesnt up shift to next gear.

if theres no common other external adjustment to try i will just go ahead and cahnge the K1 spring/plastic valve kit.

cheers al
Your car starts in 2 unless you put it down and over to "B." I think 90-95 are that way, like my 95. I'm still not clear whether it wont shift and stays in 2 or when it comes time to shift to 3 it just goes out of gear like its in neutral.
 

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500E many W124 Wagon and R129 500s
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Discussion Starter #14
hi

car sets away in 2 then when gets to 2-2500 rpm gear " slips" before going into 3 -no drive at all -then if back off revs to virtually zero it eventually catches drive again till revs hit 2-2500 then same happens again.

Assuming there are no external adjustments to bowden or vacums/throttle sensor etc -as cant see in past threads ,

i am sure one of the BIG posters would have stepped in by now - i have searched archives enough so its not as if i havent tried hard enough :):):)and tried to help myself ;)

come on boys ive got to the k1 bit on my own - hhhhelp :thumbsup:

al
 

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2005 SLK350, 91 300SL with Pano Top, 04 S500, 2015 Tesla Model S
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One month ago after a highway drive of about 30km in my 300SL, my transmission acted up the same way and then would not even shift into 3rd. Had it towed home. Next morning shifted fine up to 4th but not into 5th. As the transmission fluid warmed up, same flaring and not shifting past 2nd happened again.
So, I changed ATF oil, filter and K1 spring kit. The filter paper element inside its metal housing looked bad. I concluded that after 150,000 miles this was the first time the ATF and filter had been changed.
After this all gears acted normal.
BUT, one week later, again driving on Highway, it flared again and then there was a Bang and only second gear was available (limp mode). Drove it on sideroads home - about 50 km.
Then I concluded what the bang was. I had no more parking pawl to hold the car on a slight incline.
Got it towed to a transmission shop and there were messy bits in the pan bottom. After removing transmission, shop concluded that not even a re-build was possible due to extensive damage.
Luckily I located a donor parts car with good transmission. Now I am mobile again after spending quite a tidy sum. But I love the car.

Moral of the story: I should have changed the ATF and filter when I bought the car two years ago with 101,000 miles on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
pleased to hear you fixed it with used bits ,too often now people dont do that,

mines a different box to yours as its only 4 speed - i dont know anything really about autoboxes i just hope its not a burnt clutch plate -if they have them ????

my local auto box specialists wont do anything other than a complete overhaul ,as they are the only ones in the region they give it a full rebuild as they have so much work they wont repair single items.

al
 

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I dont think near as many come to the forum in the winter. I haven't myself, because my car goes in storage and I'm not thinking about it much.
I replaced my trans this summer for 800.00 with a used one. Before that I replaced the front pump but I did not put the stator springs back in right and they all popped out and got chewed. I was going to look in the valve body a couple tmes but it looked too complicated for me. There are alot more springs than the K1 and there are numerous pistons, levers etc, that could also cause your problem it seems. It seems you have enough clues for someone to know EXACTLY what it is. Finding that person is the problem.
I may take a chance with the K1 myself in your circumstances but I would probably try to wait and see if I could be more sure.
 

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2007 CLS 550, 1998 Harley Road King, 2011 F-150 EcoBoost, '65 Shelby Cobra
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since posting have read all threads on K1 spring kit which may help -have seen full photos and looks easy enough to fit into box.

However is there any other external adjustments i could try ,as a lot of people had same problem and k1 kit did not cure ?

also seems that the spring kit is widely used on w123/w124 etc

many thanks if anyone can suggest other things to try

al:)
The K1 Kit is the trick. It solved my problem immeditately. My indy says not much else can cause this problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
cheers for that mike ,will be fitting it tommorrow so will update post,i am a perpetual pessamist , normally cant ever see it being so easy asto pop in a k1 kit.however your comment that the indy says cant be much else has made me feel a bit more optomistic haha :)

fi;)ngers crosssed al
 
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