[KamelReds]

I have purchased a 91 190e 2.3 automatic. the car was running rough and over heated with in 15min.now it wont start so i started to remove stuff. it has 215k miles. i paid for an alldata online manual for the repairs. I dont not have a cherry picker or engine stand so i can not remove the whole engine just yet. Here is what i would like to do.


Replace all items listed below

Timing chain and 3 guides
Timing Tensor
Head gasket set
Oil pan gasket
Transmission gasket and filter
Spark plugs and wires
Distributor and rotor
4 intake valves
4 exhaust valves
8 valve springs
8 valve sets
Water pump
radiator and all hoses
thermostat and gasket
air lines
coolant sensor
valve cover gasket
fuel filter
4x fuel injectors
engine mounts
fuses
overload relay




are there any other items that would be a good idea to do now while the head will be off?



I need help with most of the stuff above. just some tips from the pro's

i need help locking my engine so i can remove the cam and crank shaft.
i need help learning how to set my engine to tdc. i can see the point on the crank and the o/t mark. but the line on the cam what is that suppose to aline with. and also how do i know the crank and cam were installed right to begin with. how do i check tdc perfect so i can adjust the crank and cam when re installing to a perfect setting.

also when re installing the distributor and rotor how do i check to make sure it + or - 10 degrees. i have a timing light with a digital display.

thanks so much guys i look forward to using this site alot with my new toy. i will try to take pics so it will help other users as well

 

[284037]

The Haynes book was perfect when I did that job and I have a bad case of ADD

 

[sranjesuper]

I have purchased a 91 190e 2.3 automatic. the car was running rough and over heated with in 15min.now it wont start so i started to remove stuff. it has 215k miles. i paid for an alldata online manual for the repairs. I dont not have a cherry picker or engine stand so i can not remove the whole engine just yet. Here is what i would like to do.


Replace all items listed below

Timing chain and 3 guides
Timing Tensor
Head gasket set
Oil pan gasket
Transmission gasket and filter
Spark plugs and wires
Distributor and rotor
4 intake valves
4 exhaust valves
8 valve springs
8 valve sets
Water pump
radiator and all hoses
thermostat and gasket
air lines
coolant sensor
valve cover gasket
fuel filter
4x fuel injectors
engine mounts
fuses
overload relay




are there any other items that would be a good idea to do now while the head will be off?



I need help with most of the stuff above. just some tips from the pro's

i need help locking my engine so i can remove the cam and crank shaft.
i need help learning how to set my engine to tdc. i can see the point on the crank and the o/t mark. but the line on the cam what is that suppose to aline with. and also how do i know the crank and cam were installed right to begin with. how do i check tdc perfect so i can adjust the crank and cam when re installing to a perfect setting.

also when re installing the distributor and rotor how do i check to make sure it + or - 10 degrees. i have a timing light with a digital display.

thanks so much guys i look forward to using this site alot with my new toy. i will try to take pics so it will help other users as well

why are you changing the valves? do you kno that they are bad in fact?
also if you plan to change them you should DEFINATELY change your valve guides and valve seals as well since they were out and burn out on the engine over 150k. Get the head re-surfaced and if you change the fuel injectors, they come with o rings and some plastic guides i think that you should change as well. if your point is to do a big maintenance job right away then change the fuel filter as well, the plugs ( non resistor, copper plugs for best results )


your OVP relay is a big one.. check behind ur battery to see if you find a relay with a red fuse in it... the later relays have 2 fuses in them.. so if you have one fuse, then think about changing it since they can do all kinds of fussy things with the engine.

i'd replace the idle air valve rubber hoses, as they get stone hard and tend to cause stumblling, roughness, stalls, no starts

and any other vaccum line that looks bad.

then go to the store , buy 2 or 3 cans of seafoam.. they make it in a sprayable form now

and spray into your throttle body one can, and put the other in a full tank of gas.. and the third you can even use to clean your engine oil and dump it in the crankcase 100km before you change your oil

 

[RetroScott]

Welcome KamelReds; I recently did a head gasket on my 2.3 so I can give you a little insight. Definitely have the head resurfaced. These aluminum heads warp real bad. You can have it tested at the same time to see if you need a Valve job. Buy new head bolts as these a single use type, and of course, a head gasket set. Water pump and thermostat while you have it off. Do yourself a favor and go into the "Frequently Asked Questions" sticky and download the PDF StarTec info, it is indispensable!
Untitled Document
Try this link. It will tell you how to time your cam and is easy to follow. You can also go into the archives and search 2.3 head gasket. Other members have written some very good articles on how to do the job. That's how I did mine. Good luck.