'92 starts the yr with the electric Service 'Button'. There is also the addition of a line bleeder right by the TC. The 4Matic valve control unit changes a bit too. The round bundle electric connector from the valve control unit has differently configured leads. There might even be some minor differences in the valve control unit itself. I have a spare pre-92 valve control unit so I know the wire leads are at least different.
Thanks Kevin, I have the schematics for the 92-93. The major differences are: (1) the elimination of the service test valve, replaced by the test switch that faults the low pressure sensor on the hydraulic controller, thus ceasing 4Matic function; (b) the continued hydraulic fluid flow through the hydraulic controller when in test mode, thus preserving SLS function; and (iii) the relocation of the measuring port "M" from the service test valve to, and elimination of two unnecessary valves within the hydraulic controller. Essentially, less plumbing. That is why I started with the more complex of the two versions; it is easier to delete than it is to add.
Today was initial start up day following my installing the new water pump, power steering/4Matic pump, and A/C compressor. All went well. No leaks, and the flushed cooling system basically primed itself. Seeing the bleeder bolt on the thermostat housing reminded me of my '76 530i, so I was prepared for the worst. I was pleasantly surprised though.
I thought that I had gotten away without having to bleed the 4Matic hydraulic system as the 4Matic warning light remained off for the entire time I ran it the first time. It let me know that I wasn't so lucky on the second start up though, as it's flashing coincided with the timed clicking of a relay, or servo located in the vicinity of the transfer case, likely in demand of hydraulic fluid.
It will be spending the night outside tonight as it still doesn't have brakes, and I don't want to risk cracking, or scuffing the rear "bumper" pushing it into the garage with the tractor. I don't want to chance driving into the garage wall either. I will flush/bleed the brakes, and bleed the 4Matic system tomorrow (Kevin, I have a printed copy of your 4Matic bleeding procedure ready to go. Thanks again!), then on to the exhaust system.
You've made great progress. As a reminder, the master cylinder reservoir has an unusual design. You might recall this from past maintenance but just to be sure you don't waste time and effort, the rear segment of the reservoir only fills when the front segment is full and you are nearly running fluid out the neck of the reservoir. This has bitten almost all of us at one time or another.
Thanks, Andy. Your reminder regarding the brake fluid reservoir is appreciated too. Kevin had mentioned this along with having the ignition switch in the "on" position for the ABS pump while bleeding the brakes. It will be nice to have brakes again, so that I can move the car around on it's own, and drive it up the ramps for bleeding the 4Matic system, and working on the exhaust system.
I wound up not replacing the belt tensioner, or the idler pulley as they were both in very good condition. The pulleys were in good condition, their bearings were silent when I spun them, and there was no "play" to be found. I did replace the tensioner adjustment assembly though.
At some point I'm going to address the gap between the trunk lid, and the quarter panels. That was my fault. We had so much packed into the trunk before a ski trip that I finally forced the trunk lid to close. I recall it listing slightly to the left as it was about to close. All I knew at the time was that we had to get moving or we might miss the ferry. I thought that it would return to it's normal position when unloaded, but it didn't. It shouldn't be hard to re-align.
Well, I've put bleeding the brakes on hold. With the r/r wheel off I was able to see that the overall condition of the brake lines, caliper, and the subframe mounts/bushings in general make the 124 non roadworthy. The rubber lines are petrified, the metal lines are heavily rusted from the calipers to the splitter above the rear differential, and the subframe mounts, and bushings are in a sorry state.
One good thing is the rust at one of the mounting points in the pic (where the protective coating has pulled away) is only surface rust.
I'm not surprised. Many years of road salt, coupled with the last five years of sitting in a sometimes damp, and/or humid garage have taken a toll.
At this point, it looks like the thing to do is to drop the entire subframe and rebuild it. It looks like my best window of opportunity to do this would be in April, while my wife is visiting her sister in Fla. for three weeks. I would be able to concentrate on the rebuild without her asking why I'm spending so much time, and money on a car that we should be donating to charity (likely to be crushed for scrap value) in order to get it out of the garage.
And sorry, I don't know why the pics doubled themselves.
Yes, road salt is the major culprit. This is despite my hosing off the underside of the car with hot water, and spray nozzle of sand, and salt every chance I had during the winter months every year that it was on the road.
I just checked into MB type spring tensioners. They look much safer to use than the old claw type tensioners, which I used once, when changing the front struts on the 530i with great trepidation many years ago. I'm going to look into rentals.
Hi, I have a 1993 300CE convertible. Where can I find some of the more particular interior trim pieces? Specifically, I need the plastic bezels around the convertible latch handles and the wood around the gearshift.
I have found Pelican Parts a good source for interior trim pieces common to the...
It’s got some things not working, but drives pretty darn good, especially for $1,000. 150,000 miles, signals work sometimes, needs new window regulators, blower motor won’t turn on(I think the control panel is culprit as it’s not doing anything). And it has some overly flashy big bling bling...
I recently bought an 87 300TD.
Vehicle came with a new set of four wheels, which are Mercedes original styling. I was also sent the 5 original wheels that came with the vehicle when purchased.
One of the original spare wheels was being used as the spare. Murphy’s Law struck and I picked up a...
Needing to replace the antenna seals on my 1990 300E 4Matic, I was able to read the part number of the lower (inside) seal (124 827 07 987). While my local MB dealer still had this seal in stock, and they are still available, I was told that the matching upper (outside) seal (124 827 08 987) is...
Can the cold start valve be tested when it's not installed in car?
I know it is getting voltage when engine is cranked, since I tested the connector.
I supplied voltage to CSV when it was out of car since I thought I might hear it click or something. I heard nothing.
BenzWorld.org forum is one of the largest Mercedes-Benz owner websites offering the most comprehensive collection of Mercedes-Benz information anywhere in the world. The site includes MB Forums, News, Galleries, Publications, Classifieds, Events and much more!