[Dave Kost]

If it were me, the next thing I would do is check the fuel pressures and volume. While waiting for your fuel pressure gauges to arrive, clean electrical grounds, relays, ECU pins - all electrical terminals. I recommend DEoxit.

Then I would test to see if the problem is electrical or mechanical. Pull the OVP and start the car- yes it will be hard to start. Drive the car, does it shut down still? If it still does, the problem is likely the fuel pumps, fuel pump relay or could be the fuel distributor.

 

[Dave Kost]

Here is what the book says........

 

[Dave Kost]

This may be more appropriate to the OP issues.

 

[Dave Kost]

To add to the above comments....

I would go to a local auto parts stop and have your battery alternator system checked out for free.

Confirm fuel pressures are in spec.
Vacuum to the EZL connected?
Is the distributor advancing at 3100 rpm? This is controlled by the EZL. This can be tested with a timing light.
If you have been running resistor plugs -the added resistance can over time destroy the ignition coil.

Weak battery alternator, non advancing distributor, bad coil (intermittent) weak fuel system could all add up up to your condition.

 

[Dave Kost]

You will need a set of pressure gauges.

There is a vacuum line going to the EZL, the EZL is located on the driver fender - under the hood. This vacuum signals the EZL to adjust the ignition timing. If there is no vacuum signal to the EZL, your ignition timing will be wrong. To test if you have vacuum at the EZL, pull off the connector at the EZL you should feel vacuum while the car is running. This doesn't prove the advance is working. You need to get a timing light to check actual advance and watch the timing advance as you increase rpm's.

Hang in there, you are making progress.

 

[Dave Kost]

You can also check for spark, a strong spark. It should be blueish not yellowish colored.

 

[Dave Kost]

Here is how you test the EZL and ignition system.

 

[Dave Kost]

You timing spec is in the above attachment.

 

[Dave Kost]

My guess is that it is a bad intermittent ignition coil, especially if the previous owner has used resistor plugs and if you have a weak spark. There is no way to test an intermittent coil, that I know of, except with an oscilloscope.

I don't like to guess without testing first but in this case, if the above is true, then I would replace the coil.

 

[Dave Kost]

Ok.
How do you test for intermittent failure of the coil? The secondary coil will heat up and fail.

 

[Dave Kost]

Here is a guy on ebay. They look to be the copper ceramic fuses.

Mercedes VW Volvo 40pc Ceramic/Bakelite 8a 16a Torpedo Bullet Fuses ATS GBC | eBay

Item for sale: 40 piece lot of NEW/NOS 8 & 16 amp Torpedo Bullet style fuses. 20pc White 8amp, 20pc Red 16amp. These are at least 40-50 year old production from Orutrax in Brazil. These are what you want.

www.ebay.com

 

[Dave Kost]

I think you found the main problem- the EZL vacuum line.

congrats!!

 

[Dave Kost]

??

 

[Dave Kost]

Calamityj - How about a picture?