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'79 450SL, '04 CLK200 convertible; former A124, W210, A209.
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1,389 Posts
Great car for that sort of cash, no brainer!

And, having got some cool stuff from @rwd4evr I can highly recommend him - solid.
 

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1979 280SL, 1984 280SL
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5,641 Posts
They made shitloads of 560sl. The only car is bringing real solid money are gorgeous and usually have lots and lots and lots of paperwork. Anything else nice seven $8,000 Max.

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This is absolutely true. R107's won't be investment vehicles in the foreseeable future. And any 100k+ miles car will only ever be a driver. Nothing wrong with that, in fact, a much more enjoyable option than having a garage queen. As far as matching numbers? Makes absolutely zero difference to this car. Replace the engine, save what you need from the original and enjoy driving it. Your value can only go up from $500!
 

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1983 380SL, ivory/dk brown, 46k miles, dual roller timing chain. 1986 560SL, red/white, 190K mile.
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6,742 Posts
They made shitloads of 560sl. The only car is bringing real solid money are gorgeous and usually have lots and lots and lots of paperwork. Anything else nice seven $8,000 Max.

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Around here in N.C., the asking price is generally much higher.
Currently only 4 R107's on local Craigs List.
BTW, that $1200 560SL is a "Needs Work" and might be the better buy.

2618466
 

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1982 500 SEC, 1980 280S, 1972 280SE 3.5, 1969 280SL, 1968 280S, 1950 170S
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123 Posts
just adding to the discussion on the original engine - sounds like you aim to keep it which is great - it may not mean anything about numbers now but without a crystal ball you never know in the future and smart to keep your options. I would do exactly as suggested, bolt in another and enjoy the car. If it ran out of oil and seized (as opposed to overheated), that is most likely due to the crank seizing. If it hasn't damaged the journals in the block then the old crank may be able to be machined or the crank from another motor installed, but use all the parts associated with that crank because they balance them all together in the factory. Chances are the bores themselves are ok. It depends how long the top end was starved of oil - both cams broken sounds odd to me and i would have thought something else. Will be an interesting exercise to strip it and do some detective work.
 

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1988 560SL / 1995 SL500
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2 Posts
Just bought a 1988 560SL with a seized engine, owner ran it out of oil and supposedly both cams are broken? Body and Interior are in great shape for a car this age with 132k on the clock. Has been sitting for a couple of years, but still looks good. I wrench on my own cars, however, have never touched a Mercedes and am wondering what I have to work with. I see used engines available in the $2-3k range on eBay and re-manufactured long blocks in the $5-6k range. I paid $500.00 for the car as it sits, so don't think I can go to wrong buying an engine for it. How difficult are these engines to work on? Anything I need to be on the lookout for? Sources for engines, parts, manuals, etc...

Thanks for any insight.

John
I also own a 1988 560SL and have only replaced the ac compressor, dryer and filter. I just finished replacing the engine in my 1985 500SL. The plastic timing chain guide disinigrated and caused the timing chain to jump and bent the valves on the passenger side so lost compression. I found a used engine on eBay that was pretty much complete. As I started the removal process I marked wires and vacuum hoses so I would know where they go at reassembly. I put the new engine on a stand and as I removed parts (bolts) from the old engine I placed them on the new engine. I removed the alternator and unbolted and left intact the power steering pump and ac compressor. You will find that wires and vacuum hoses are brittle and once the engine is out you will need to replace/repair them. I purchased bulk wire, hoses and wire loomes making sure they were oil resistant high temperature. The good thing about Mercedes is they mark all hoses with their part number which make ordering easy. My source for new parts was AutohausAZ.
I have a garage with a lift that made the process easier. There are many utube videos that can help along the way.
 

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'85 300tdt (sold),'64 220b,'63 220Sb ,85 monte carlo ss 406SBC(4 sale),1976 vega wagon(sold)
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251 Posts
View attachment 2619153 View attachment 2619154

First look. Appears to be a broken cam bearing or bracket?

Also what are the lines coming from what appears to be the AC connecting to the intake?

View attachment 2619155 View attachment 2619155
The lines coming from the AC lines are the fuel lines. There is a fuel cooler that is in the ac line that the fuel return line to the tank from the fuel distributor circulates through to help keep the fuel from boiling. It's an issue in cars that return massive amount to the tank like CIS. Especially if driving slow in hot traffic.

Looking at the broken cam tower bearing cap I would assume that it jumped time and blasted a valve. They are known to break cam towers when that happens. That engine needs to be torn down and have heads rebuilt(or replaced) all new timing parts at the very least. It could have piston or even rod damage as well. Pull the valve covers, pretty sure you will find major Carnage. You may be able to save it in the car but I don't think it would be worth spending the time and money to not replace all the guides plus who knows how much broken crap is in the oil pan. I'd still reccomend a replacement and then evaluate the original for refurbishing.
 

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1988 560SL
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10 Posts
Discussion Starter #30
Thank you for the insight! I'm going to pull the engine and break it down to see if the bottom half is salvageable. Any special tools required for this project that would be outside a normal mechanic setup?
 

Outstanding Contributor
450slc5.0cab 280sl5sp 280se4.5 500seAMG +250seStkW108 350sl4spdX3 500secEuro
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22,216 Posts
Thank you for the insight! I'm going to pull the engine and break it down to see if the bottom half is salvageable. Any special tools required for this project that would be outside a normal mechanic setup?
Put another engine in it while you are playing with the old one. You will probably quickly find that even rebuilding yourself will cost much more than the car is worth.
 

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'85 300tdt (sold),'64 220b,'63 220Sb ,85 monte carlo ss 406SBC(4 sale),1976 vega wagon(sold)
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251 Posts
Thank you for the insight! I'm going to pull the engine and break it down to see if the bottom half is salvageable. Any special tools required for this project that would be outside a normal mechanic setup?
Not really, but I wouldn't want to care about the first Mercedes I pulled the motor from. I learned thier "mercedesisms" tearing apart junk parts cars. Get a label maker for vaccum lines and wires. Pay attention to routing, take pictures. Maybe even get a bunch of dollar store nail polish colors to mark stuff that goes back together. You will probably want to replace a bunch of brittle plastic vacuum tubing too.

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'85 300tdt (sold),'64 220b,'63 220Sb ,85 monte carlo ss 406SBC(4 sale),1976 vega wagon(sold)
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251 Posts
With that mileage and making it a driver I would go with a LS -5-6 speed transplant, they begged to be a manual shift car. .
Yes, they magically just bolt in like on a TV car show. There's actually a ton of fabrication to do to make that happen.
Oil pan, exhaust, engine and trans mounts, power steering, air conditioning (optional but damn nice), fuel system, drive shaft, trans tunnel mods possibly, clutch pedal. But you are correct, these cars scream to be stiffer and manual trans. Mine is stiffened up tons and it's still very comfy and the 4 speed makes it so much better.

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1988 560SL
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10 Posts
Discussion Starter #36 (Edited)
The Fun has begun! De-greased Engine, drained fluids, removed hood, radiator out and now to start disconnecting and tagging wires, hoses, and etc...
2619895
2619896
 

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1988 560SL
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10 Posts
Discussion Starter #37
Question about Motor Mounts that the manual doesn't appear very clear on. Do I just remove the motor shock assemblies and the 10mm Hex Bolt from below to pull the engine in addition to the transmission mounts and etc?
 

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'85 300tdt (sold),'64 220b,'63 220Sb ,85 monte carlo ss 406SBC(4 sale),1976 vega wagon(sold)
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251 Posts
Question about Motor Mounts that the manual doesn't appear very clear on. Do I just remove the motor shock assemblies and the 10mm Hex Bolt from below to pull the engine in addition to the transmission mounts and etc?
It's been awhile since I have pulled an alloy block engine. The early iron block cars have bolts and nuts from top and bottom. I wanna say when you pull the bottom hex bolt it dissconnected the engine shock mount on an alloy block car. Like there is a captured nut. I'll have to look at one.

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Premium Member
560SL 1986 244k miles astral grey / black
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402 Posts
IIRC the nut on the top is captive, you need to remove the bolt from underneath
 

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'85 300tdt (sold),'64 220b,'63 220Sb ,85 monte carlo ss 406SBC(4 sale),1976 vega wagon(sold)
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251 Posts
Yes for sure. I just can't recall how the shock ties in. I remember it's much better than the early cars that are a real pita. I remember the shocks getting hung up removing engine.

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