This is absolutely true. R107's won't be investment vehicles in the foreseeable future. And any 100k+ miles car will only ever be a driver. Nothing wrong with that, in fact, a much more enjoyable option than having a garage queen. As far as matching numbers? Makes absolutely zero difference to this car. Replace the engine, save what you need from the original and enjoy driving it. Your value can only go up from $500!They made shitloads of 560sl. The only car is bringing real solid money are gorgeous and usually have lots and lots and lots of paperwork. Anything else nice seven $8,000 Max.
Sent from my SM-J737A using Tapatalk
Around here in N.C., the asking price is generally much higher.They made shitloads of 560sl. The only car is bringing real solid money are gorgeous and usually have lots and lots and lots of paperwork. Anything else nice seven $8,000 Max.
Sent from my SM-J737A using Tapatalk
I also own a 1988 560SL and have only replaced the ac compressor, dryer and filter. I just finished replacing the engine in my 1985 500SL. The plastic timing chain guide disinigrated and caused the timing chain to jump and bent the valves on the passenger side so lost compression. I found a used engine on eBay that was pretty much complete. As I started the removal process I marked wires and vacuum hoses so I would know where they go at reassembly. I put the new engine on a stand and as I removed parts (bolts) from the old engine I placed them on the new engine. I removed the alternator and unbolted and left intact the power steering pump and ac compressor. You will find that wires and vacuum hoses are brittle and once the engine is out you will need to replace/repair them. I purchased bulk wire, hoses and wire loomes making sure they were oil resistant high temperature. The good thing about Mercedes is they mark all hoses with their part number which make ordering easy. My source for new parts was AutohausAZ.Just bought a 1988 560SL with a seized engine, owner ran it out of oil and supposedly both cams are broken? Body and Interior are in great shape for a car this age with 132k on the clock. Has been sitting for a couple of years, but still looks good. I wrench on my own cars, however, have never touched a Mercedes and am wondering what I have to work with. I see used engines available in the $2-3k range on eBay and re-manufactured long blocks in the $5-6k range. I paid $500.00 for the car as it sits, so don't think I can go to wrong buying an engine for it. How difficult are these engines to work on? Anything I need to be on the lookout for? Sources for engines, parts, manuals, etc...
Thanks for any insight.
The lines coming from the AC lines are the fuel lines. There is a fuel cooler that is in the ac line that the fuel return line to the tank from the fuel distributor circulates through to help keep the fuel from boiling. It's an issue in cars that return massive amount to the tank like CIS. Especially if driving slow in hot traffic.
Put another engine in it while you are playing with the old one. You will probably quickly find that even rebuilding yourself will cost much more than the car is worth.Thank you for the insight! I'm going to pull the engine and break it down to see if the bottom half is salvageable. Any special tools required for this project that would be outside a normal mechanic setup?
Not really, but I wouldn't want to care about the first Mercedes I pulled the motor from. I learned thier "mercedesisms" tearing apart junk parts cars. Get a label maker for vaccum lines and wires. Pay attention to routing, take pictures. Maybe even get a bunch of dollar store nail polish colors to mark stuff that goes back together. You will probably want to replace a bunch of brittle plastic vacuum tubing too.Thank you for the insight! I'm going to pull the engine and break it down to see if the bottom half is salvageable. Any special tools required for this project that would be outside a normal mechanic setup?
Yes, they magically just bolt in like on a TV car show. There's actually a ton of fabrication to do to make that happen.With that mileage and making it a driver I would go with a LS -5-6 speed transplant, they begged to be a manual shift car. .
It's been awhile since I have pulled an alloy block engine. The early iron block cars have bolts and nuts from top and bottom. I wanna say when you pull the bottom hex bolt it dissconnected the engine shock mount on an alloy block car. Like there is a captured nut. I'll have to look at one.Question about Motor Mounts that the manual doesn't appear very clear on. Do I just remove the motor shock assemblies and the 10mm Hex Bolt from below to pull the engine in addition to the transmission mounts and etc?