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Discussion Starter #1
So, I've been looking everywhere for some sort of guide on how to remove my door panels to take a look at what's wrong with my window. I don't think it's the motor, becuase when you press the switch for the window to go down, you can hear a click noise which I assume is the motor trying to engage. So the glass must be off track or something.

Any help is greatly appreciated!
 

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About a dozen 1988, 1989, 1990, and 1991 sedans, wagons, 4Matics and 1 coupe
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The stuck rear windows problem is a common one on the early 124s. My 260E sedan had the problem and I removed the door panels to diagnose the problem. All the parts looked new and undamaged. I found that if I loosened the nuts that held the regulator to the door shell, the regulator moved a little bit which relieved some tension on the regulator cable (it is a cable type mechanism, unlike the fronts). The glass then moved fine. Tightened the nuts, reinstalled the door panels, and everything was good. For a few days when the windows stopped working again. I bought a pair of new rear regulators/motors (expensive) and installed them. Revised design. The windows worked fine for a few years but the problem has returned.
I say unless you really, really need rear window operation, forget about it.
Fronts are much simpler havin only a motor and a geared arm. I'd troubleshoot the switch and wiring as the regulators don't lock up. The typical failure mode is stripped teeth off the regulator rack and you'd hear the motor running if that was the case. New regulator w/o motor is about $150. Have fun.
 

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86 190E 2.3L 16V, 2 95 320TE's, 02 S500
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Go to the DIY section of this forum and you'll find a link on door panel removal.

Good Luck

Jayare
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
The stuck rear windows problem is a common one on the early 124s. My 260E sedan had the problem and I removed the door panels to diagnose the problem. All the parts looked new and undamaged. I found that if I loosened the nuts that held the regulator to the door shell, the regulator moved a little bit which relieved some tension on the regulator cable (it is a cable type mechanism, unlike the fronts). The glass then moved fine. Tightened the nuts, reinstalled the door panels, and everything was good. For a few days when the windows stopped working again. I bought a pair of new rear regulators/motors (expensive) and installed them. Revised design. The windows worked fine for a few years but the problem has returned.
I say unless you really, really need rear window operation, forget about it.
Fronts are much simpler havin only a motor and a geared arm. I'd troubleshoot the switch and wiring as the regulators don't lock up. The typical failure mode is stripped teeth off the regulator rack and you'd hear the motor running if that was the case. New regulator w/o motor is about $150. Have fun.
Okay, so I removed the door panel and my friend loosened the screw that I think you were speaking of. And like you said, it only worked for a few days.

Will I be able to notice if the teeth are stripped? What are other things I should do to diagnose the problem?
 
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