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I am just trying to restore the 260e whenever i can. it has been sitting for the last 10 years. surprising it
started on my first try two weeks ago. there are alot to be done to bring it to life again. i drove it around
the neighborhood thats all. it smokes even on operating temp. i am gathering tools and parts to do
valve stem seals and coolant flush for starters.

just noticed the economy needle was not pegged as it should be. thanks for tips, that should also be in
my to-do list.
 

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W201 Moderator
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If your '88 260 is smoking, you have a bunch of work to do there.
You also have a cam and oil dripper that would be suspect. I had to replace mine and the entire valve train.

But first, you need to do a compression test on your engine to get a baseline of what you might need. You may have surprises under the hood.

How much oil are you burning (how many miles per quart?)

Under these circumstances the vacuum is probably way down on your list.
 

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If your '88 260 is smoking, you have a bunch of work to do there.
You also have a cam and oil dripper that would be suspect. I had to replace mine and the entire valve train.

But first, you need to do a compression test on your engine to get a baseline of what you might need. You may have surprises under the hood.

How much oil are you burning (how many miles per quart?)

Under these circumstances the vacuum is probably way down on your list.
What is a good compression reading?
 

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I would not be happy for any cylinder under 150. Mine range from 160 - 180 for an M103 at 195K miles. Engine can burn oil but still have decent compression BTW.
 

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If your '88 260 is smoking, you have a bunch of work to do there.
You also have a cam and oil dripper that would be suspect. I had to replace mine and the entire valve train.

But first, you need to do a compression test on your engine to get a baseline of what you might need. You may have surprises under the hood.

How much oil are you burning (how many miles per quart?)

Under these circumstances the vacuum is probably way down on your list.
Surprisingly, my reading is at 170-180 range. So what's next? I plan to attack the valve stem seals next.
 

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That is good. Your engine sounds very much like how mine was 2 years ago. I would advise not going down the path I did for your engine.
Or at least hear my story first....

You can read my posts in this forum on the matter. Plenty of them around.

BTW, mine never smoked out the tailpipe, just kept burning oil at a fast rate but evenly between cylinders at 400-500 miles to the quart.

First I did the valve seals only against my veteran Indy's best advice ( Indy mechanic of over 40 years)

That barely changed the oil burn rate. I inspected the original seals and sure enough they were plastic after 30 years, but no change in oil consumption. Maybe up from 400 miles to 500 miles per quart.

After that I also found that there is a #5 to #6 cylinder compression leak that could only be found in a leak down test (did not effect the oil burning and the running quality that much)

Went ahead and replaced the valve guides (and seals again of course) and a full valve job and head gasket replacement, also well documented as it required a bunch of help from the folks on this forum.

Now the oil consumption is about 1200 - 1500 miles / quart. I suspect the rest of this is the piston rings, particularly on cylinder 5, as I repeated the leakdown test. All cylinders are perfect (over 99%) except #5 is more like 95% TDC. Engine does not leak a drop of oil.

If you are going to do the seal only replacement, the silver lining is it will give you a chance to inspect your cam. Mine revealed that the CAM was worn badly. So I got to replace the valve train prior to the head job.

You can search my posts about leakdown test, oil burning, etc. etc.

BTW my engine was at 190K miles at the time, I believe yours is much younger.
 

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Hey guys. Can anyone tell me where this vacuum line is suppose to go to? It is under the intake. See attached pictures.
The line is question isn't a vacuum line. It is a safety feature. If the fuel pressure regulator fails, raw fuel will be drawn into the intake via the crankcase breather pipe.

Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #90
This poster needs to finish one job at a time . Or more problems will arise .
Hello,

This is what I am currently on. I have several vacuum lines that are not connected where they are suppose to be. I am working on finding where they are intended to be routed to.

Is there a schematic here that maps out the vacuum lines on the gas motor? I closest one I found was a diesel.
 

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Discussion Starter #93
A bit of an update for anyone following this.

Myself and a couple of guys have been working on the car on and off past few months when we have free time. Currently I still do not have 4th gear.

I was able to get vacuum line diagrams from my local Mercedes dealership. The line that runs from the transmission to the intake manifold seems to be leaking. I am going to replace that one. As far as the other vacuum lines, we have checked those and had to repair one leak. If there is anymore they are pretty small leaks.

Here is a list of items that have been taken care of since the last time I posted here.

1. Brake System Flush. (ATE TYP 200 Fluid) - The brake lines had a excessive amount of air in the lines so flushed the fluid while we resolved that. As well as replaced 2 covers on top of the brake reservoir.
2. Transmission Fluid and Filter ( Mercedes Transmission Filter Kit -Elring 2012700098 from FCP Euro) - I have changed the filter and fluid so far about 3 times I believe and almost removed all the slipping that the transmission had been doing oddly enough.
3. Air Filter Replacement (Mann C 41 173)
4. Engine Oil and Filter (Mobile 1 10W-40 Full Synthetic and Mann W 719/13 Filter)
5. Replaced rounded off oil drain plug
6. Fuel Filter Replacement (Mann WK 845 Filter) - The fuel filter that was on the car was manufactured April 29, 1996. Im assuming it has been a bit since it was changed. It was pretty clogged when I took it off and checked it out.
7. Replaced Transmission cooler lines with OEM lines
8. Alignment - The steering was not correct
9. Replace both Engine Mount Brackets and Mounts
10. Replace Transmission Mount
11. Replace kick down switch - tested it and was faulty
12. Replaced rear brake pads
13. Replaced exhaust system - The one that was on the car looked like someone was teaching themselves how to weld. I found another W124 that had the exhaust and swapped it.

That's the majority of the work done so far. I am probably missing a few things. I think I should have the 4th gear issue resolved soon. In the process the car will more or less get refurbished.
 

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Discussion Starter #95
You've done a lot of work. :smile:thumbsup: Looks going to be very nice restore!
Thanks. Yes, when I find something that I do not approve of I end up taking care of it. Unfortunately it seems to be a decent amount of things on this car. Btw I see you are in Dallas. I am east of you about 1hr - 1.5hrs. I am in Tyler, Texas.
 

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if you have a 1993-1995 US model 124, this copy of the FSM has the wiring diagrams fully indexed, 24 Electrical Troubleshooting ... most other ones I've seen online don't.











how do I know this? I indexed them myself, by picking apart the directory structure and hand coding the html index page, and double/triple checking everything. I even found that the common copy of the FSM on CD is missing some files and has a couple misnamed and duplicated. I pushed this updated index back to the source, who updated his master, but most everyone else who's slapped the FSM online hasn't adopted this updated index page.
 

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Discussion Starter #98
Vacuum lines did not resolve the issue. I am going to replace the springs in the transmission next. Can anyone tell me how to check the VIN to figure out what transmission I have in my car? Thanks in advance.
 

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Vacuum lines did not resolve the issue. I am going to replace the springs in the transmission next. Can anyone tell me how to check the VIN to figure out what transmission I have in my car? Thanks in advance.
your transmission should be on the 'datacard' in teh back of your owners manual, or it can be looked up on IPSSI via your VIN. I believe all 260E/300E2.6 have transmission 722.409


um, automatic transmission work is not for the casual mechanic. it requires near cleanroom conditions, and a lot of model specific knowlege.

I'm not reading through this whole 10 page thread again, what specific symptoms does your transmission have where you think 'springs' is the solution ?

as someone else said, the 4 speed automatic used with M103 (2.6, 3.0L non-DOHC) cars in the USA starts in 2nd gear by default. These only shifts into 1st if you really mash the throttle hard from a stop, or if while stopped, you put the shifter into the '2' position, start rolling, then shift to 3 or D. Actually, you should be able to shift it into 2, then back into 3 while stopped, and it will roll in 1 then shift to 2 and 3 as needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #100
your transmission should be on the 'datacard' in teh back of your owners manual, or it can be looked up on IPSSI via your VIN. I believe all 260E/300E2.6 have transmission 722.409


um, automatic transmission work is not for the casual mechanic. it requires near cleanroom conditions, and a lot of model specific knowlege.

I'm not reading through this whole 10 page thread again, what specific symptoms does your transmission have where you think 'springs' is the solution ?

as someone else said, the 4 speed automatic used with M103 (2.6, 3.0L non-DOHC) cars in the USA starts in 2nd gear by default. These only shifts into 1st if you really mash the throttle hard from a stop, or if while stopped, you put the shifter into the '2' position, start rolling, then shift to 3 or D. Actually, you should be able to shift it into 2, then back into 3 while stopped, and it will roll in 1 then shift to 2 and 3 as needed.
I will check out that datacard in the owners manual.

More or less the issue is that I can kick down the car into 1st no problem. The car will shift almost smoothly for the most part 1st, 2nd, and 3rd but will never go into 4th.

Cliff notes:

- Replaced the Transmission Fluid and Filter about 2 or 3 times now to get some build up and gunk that I found out of the transmission (No resolve for 4th gear but made a lot of the shifting smoother.
- I thought there was a vacuum line leak that was causing the shifting but that turns out to not be the case once all of the vacuum lines were checked out.
- Replaced all the filters: (Engine Oil, Air Filter, Fuel Filter) just to make sure it was not something simple as that.

The next thing that I can think that would cause the issue is potentially a weak spring from 3rd to 4th gear so I was going to do a spring kit in the transmission to see if that resolves it.
 
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