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The ONLY filters you should be using on any Euro car should be made by Mann, Hengst, or Knecht-Mahle.

Even my Honda Accord diesel factory filters are made by Knecht-Mahle in Austria.
 

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It will be a hit or miss, mostly miss. Even from online stores, only buy what they claim to be OEM parts.

Anything else, you will be risking a less then perfect fit and quality. Most of the questionable parts I bought from online stores have been already replaced with dealership parts. Save yourself the grief.....

- Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #63
The ONLY filters you should be using on any Euro car should be made by Mann, Hengst, or Knecht-Mahle.

Even my Honda Accord diesel factory filters are made by Knecht-Mahle in Austria.
That will be the case once I clean out the transmission with filter and fluid replacements every 500 miles for a bit. But for now I am okay with using these filters.

It will be a hit or miss, mostly miss. Even from online stores, only buy what they claim to be OEM parts.

Anything else, you will be risking a less then perfect fit and quality. Most of the questionable parts I bought from online stores have been already replaced with dealership parts. Save yourself the grief.....

- Cheers!
Yea I go that route most of the time. My other Mercedes and the other vehicles I use factory equivalent parts.
 

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Filters and oil are the very last thing you should be trying to pinch pennies on.

Quality filters (and oil) are cheap as chips and they're the lifeblood of your engine and trans.

For the trans filter, you should ONLY get the genuine MB part. Others are known to fall apart and separate.
 

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Discussion Starter #65
Filters and oil are the very last thing you should be trying to pinch pennies on.

Quality filters (and oil) are cheap as chips and they're the lifeblood of your engine and trans.

For the trans filter, you should ONLY get the genuine MB part. Others are known to fall apart and separate.
Yes I understand that. Currently I have other issues that are more of a priority than running 100% correct fluids and filters in this car. Once I am done with cycling out the transmission fluid then I will go to Mann filters.

The goal at the moment are to fix a vacuum issue that is causing door lock issues as well as braking problems plus possibly the 4th gear issue. Once that is completed and I have cycled the fluid and filter enough times to my liking then I will put in factory filter. Probably not factory fluid but an equivalent since the dealership seems to think the same fluid that works on my W204 will work in the W124.
 

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MB does not sell the correct fluid for these transmissions anymore. Dealers that know supply Mobil ATF D/M

You need a good quality Dexron 3, such as Mobil ATF D/M if you are in North America. No synthetics (like Mobil1), no additives, no magic elixirs, nada other than straight up Dexron in the right grade, quality and quantity.

Outside North America, Fuchs or Liqui Moly supplies the correct Dexron 2D
 

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Discussion Starter #67
MB does not sell the correct fluid for these transmissions anymore. Dealers that know supply Mobil ATF D/M

You need a good quality Dexron 3, such as Mobil ATF D/M if you are in North America. No synthetics (like Mobil1), no additives, no magic elixirs, nada other than straight up Dexron in the right grade and quality.

Outside North America, Fuchs or Liqui Moly supplies the correct Dexron 2D
Yea I was looking to order a case of Mobil ATF D/M from somewhere.
 

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That looks like a good price (assuming 12 quarts in this case or ~$5.84 per quart). Sorry if I'm sidetracking a bit. I think this would be the preferred ATF for all 722.3XX trannies, correct? I ask since my car is a 96 W210 but carries the M104 engine and the 722.3xx tranny over. Datacard for my VIN says its a 722.329 FWIW.
 

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If you are a perfectionist here are some comments - I'm comparing to my '89 2.6L engine with 190K miles

(1) Temp - The coolant temp is a little on the high side with 55F outside. If it was idling for 30 minutes, maybe ok. Under these conditions I like to see 90c - Again you need to judge this summertime not now though
(2) Oil pressure at nearly 700rpm I like to see closer to or above 1.5Bar. You may need to use thicker oil for that like 15W40. But it could also be your oil pressure sensor.
(3) Economy - It should be pegged to the stop at idle assuming the AC was not running when you took the picture. I assume at 55F you did not have AC running. Anything less than pegged should be looked into.

- Cheers!
On #3 I am trying to peg the needle to the top to no avail. this has something to do with fuel/air mix, right? o
I tried adjusting CCW but no go. any ideas?
 

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the economy needle is entirely driven on manifold vacuum. fuel-air or lambda ratio has nothing to do with it.
To add to LCG's comments first make sure there is not some leak from one or more of the HVAC actuators which also run on the same vacuum line.
That is generally the case. In that case your meter is not measuring intake vacuum but rather a lower value due to the leak.

With the AC off and engine around 700rpm, it should be pegged.
If not, play with some of the buttons on the HVAC and see if the gauge gets effected. If it does you will need to replace the actuator that is leaking if the meter bothers you. Usually not urgent.

Report on what you observe please.

- Cheers
 

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To add to LCG's comments first make sure there is not some leak from one or more of the HVAC actuators which also run on the same vacuum line.
That is generally the case. In that case your meter is not measuring intake vacuum but rather a lower value due to the leak.

With the AC off and engine around 700rpm, it should be pegged.
If not, play with some of the buttons on the HVAC and see if the gauge gets effected. If it does you will need to replace the actuator that is leaking if the meter bothers you. Usually not urgent.

Report on what you observe please.

- Cheers
Where are these HVAC actuators?
 

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Thanks for the quick reply. maybe i should start at the main vacuum line under the
hood before tearing apart the dash.

Where is this main distribution vacuum line?

Just a weekend mechanic wanna be, thanks for your patience!
 

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Thanks for the quick reply. maybe i should start at the main vacuum line under the
hood before tearing apart the dash.

Where is this main distribution vacuum line?

Just a weekend mechanic wanna be, thanks for your patience!
You did not report on the results of pushing various air deflectors (foot, front, windshield, etc.)

I would not tear into anything before finding which of the actuators are potentially causing the leak.
You may even hear a hissing sound when the actuator is activated.
 

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Furthermore the way I went about it is that I visited the junk yard and found a decent car with lower mileage. Then I tore into it and figured out how to get to all the actuators and took them as samples so I have part numbers and if they are easy to replace just used them if they looked good.

On my W201, in some cases the entire dash had to come out (especially for the windshield deflector). Not very pleasant. But I was replacing the dash anyway so it all worked out. The ones in the center console are generally accessible without the dash removal. Must be similar in W124.

What I'm saying is that this is the kind of work that takes planning (assuming this is your problem as well).

My meter has been pegged ever since (about 2 years ago), and no more hissing sounds coming from the dash.
 

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^This, open dash surgery should be the last option in the book and IF you're gonna pull the dash it would be utterly foolish not to replace the real Achilles heel of the W124, namely the A/C evaporator core. Ditto on the heater core and hoses.

The original A/C evap cores are known leakers. They all do, just a matter of when not if.
 
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