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Hey guys. Im Alen. Im new to the W124 section but Ive been in the W204 section for about 7 years or so over at MBWorld. Apparently I have an account here as well so I thought I would check this out on this site. I bought a 1988 260 E from a friend and I had a few questions. I did a quick search but some of this stuff I did not find any solid info on.

1. The OD Solenoid is out. Has anyone had to replace that before and if so what is the difficulty level?
2. Any things to look out for on this model and/or problems that I might run into?


Other than that the car leaks a little ATF that I need to figure out where exactly it is coming from as well as replace the battery and its for the most part in business.
 

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OD solenoid? which transmission do you have? the US model 260E's (and the rest of hte 6 cyl W124's) have a 4 speed automatic without any overdrive. shifter is labeled 2-3-D-N-R-P
 

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OD solenoid? which transmission do you have? the US model 260E's (and the rest of hte 6 cyl W124's) have a 4 speed automatic without any overdrive. shifter is labeled 2-3-D-N-R-P
I am not sure which transmission is in the car. This is more or less information passed on to me from the previous owner. I haven’t had a chance to really look the car over much myself. I parked it in the garage. I will have a bit of time in a few weeks to do some diagnostics myself.
 

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All 260E cars use the 722.4xx series transmission. IIRC, the 260 uses the 722.409 specifically

These cars had no overdrive, and in stock form all had 2nd gear start unless you forced a kickdown
 

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note you can force a start in 1st by putting the car in 2 for a second, then back in 3 while fully stopped... after doing this, the car will shift 1-2-3 as you accelerate (and 4th when you put it in D)

at least on our 260, putting it in D while still stopped seemed to reset this 'start in 1st' mode.
 

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I am not sure which transmission is in the car. This is more or less information passed on to me from the previous owner. I haven’t had a chance to really look the car over much myself. I parked it in the garage. I will have a bit of time in a few weeks to do some diagnostics myself.
Have you looked into the owner's manual for how the transmission works? As LeftCoast mentions, while at a stop, put the gear selector into position 2, then back in D and the car will start in 1st. Put the selector in 2 and leave it there, the car will start in first and stay there until you do a quick 2-3-2 shift and it will go into 2nd and stay until you move to 3, then D.

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Have you looked into the owner's manual for how the transmission works? As LeftCoast mentions, while at a stop, put the gear selector into position 2, then back in D and the car will start in 1st. Put the selector in 2 and leave it there, the car will start in first and stay there until you do a quick 2-3-2 shift and it will go into 2nd and stay until you move to 3, then D.

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I have not looked through that. I had it delivered to the house and I have not drove it. The only thing that I was informed of is that it will not go over 50-55mph and that it was an issue with the OD Solenoid. A friend sold it to me and I had to go out of town before I had a chance to check it out much.
 

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I will give it a shot and see if I have use of all 4 gears at that point and if I can go over 55mph.
 

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a 260E should be able to cruise at 100MPH+ all day long. probably wind it up to at least 120 if you have enough road.
Yea I figured it was a pretty solid car. I need to put in a proper battery as the current one does not hold a charge and I guess has been sitting in the car while the car has been sitting in storage or something since the terminals are more or less seized to the cables. Thats my first battle then I can get it properly started and be able to diagnose the issue.
 

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if you're in top gear, you should be doing about 3000 rpm at 60MPH, give or take.

if its got no power, it could be a lot of things, I'd first get it to a baseline of the consumables like spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, distributor shaft plate (can't remember the name, its a disk with a hole in it that goes under the rotor). check the fuse on the OVP relay, check all the fuses in the main fuse panel (really, replace them all with Flosser brand brass/copper ceramic fuses, which you'll have to get online, noone carries these). lubricate the shift linkage. make sure the transmission throttle pressure cable is moving smoothly. make sure the ATF is clean and not burned
 

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Discussion Starter #12
if you're in top gear, you should be doing about 3000 rpm at 60MPH, give or take.

if its got no power, it could be a lot of things, I'd first get it to a baseline of the consumables like spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, distributor shaft plate (can't remember the name, its a disk with a hole in it that goes under the rotor). check the fuse on the OVP relay, check all the fuses in the main fuse panel (really, replace them all with Flosser brand brass/copper ceramic fuses, which you'll have to get online, noone carries these). lubricate the shift linkage. make sure the transmission throttle pressure cable is moving smoothly. make sure the ATF is clean and not burned

I’ll give all the above a go. One thing I did notice was the ATF was leaking right under the radiator area. It almost looked like a fitting needed to be replaced to resolve the leak.
 

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I’ll give all the above a go. One thing I did notice was the ATF was leaking right under the radiator area. It almost looked like a fitting needed to be replaced to resolve the leak.
Most likely bad trans cooler lines, bad radiator or both.
 

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Quick question. I got the battery out of the car. It was a Duralast or something generic. My question is are these cars specific and prefer the Mercedes battery for everything to work correctly or can I get away with a generic battery? In my 2009 I always use Factory Mercedes Batteries. I know in some German cars things will not work right if the battery is not from the manufacturer.
 

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As long as the replacement battery is correct for the car, you'll be good to go. Make sure your alternator is charging to spec as well.

Good luck

Jayare

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As long as you use a quality group 49 size battery, such as Interstate, etc you're fine.

The group 49 is slightly larger than the stock battery size but fits the tray perfectly, and these cars benefit from the bigger unit.
 

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I picked up a battery from the dealership and put it in there. The issue now is that I put the key in, it will make the noise that signals the key is in the ignition and some lights come on in the car but the engine does not turn over. With that being said I am not able to tighten the battery terminals because of the excessive corrosion that was on them. I tried cleaning them a bit but that did not help. This weekend I will get new terminals and replace the ones currently and see if that resolves the problem of the car starting.
 

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Place the car in neutral and try starting. Report back

Jayare

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Place the car in neutral and try starting. Report back

Jayare

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I think I did try that and I had the same result. I will try again later.

did you use a battery brush on the terminals? if, when you turn the key to 'start', the dashboard lights don't dim out, then odds are its *NOT* the battery terminals
Yea it was a steel brush adapter on my drill.

The dash lights do not come on at all. I think they are out. I turned on the light above the center mirror to verify that I had power.

The car has been able to start before with a jump start. Now with a new battery it doesn't turn over.
 
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