The radiator neck broke off on my MB so I'm getting ready to replace the radiator come spring. I looked up all of the old posts to see if there was any advice. I saw some discussions on choices of replacement; OEM vs not. Now I'm looking for actual hands on replacment advice, tips, recommendations, "look out fors", etc. Anyone care to help me get ready to take on my "spring thaw" project?
1987 560SL - radiator replacment
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1986 560SL: '84 500SL: '84 280SL 5 speed: other 107s ALL SOLD
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1. I, for one, don't think this happens on its own. Either the hose was tightened too much (squeezing the heck out of old rubber and down on the plastic neck, or a combination of loose/broken motor mounts allowed the radiator hose to pull on the neck, breaking it. I would definitely check these things FIRST (this is a great opportunity to replace all the hoses, because you are going to have to do some serious draining). I mean, all, including the hoses around the aux water pump to the heater core. One of the hoses is expensive but shop around. I got a spare for about $35 whereas this might be $100 at the dealer.
2. IF you get a new radiator, you might consider putting in a reinforcement if it doesn't have one. There is a guy that sells a kit for this. The kit consists of a short length of copper tubing and some "plumber's epoxy". I installed this, and I haven't had any problems, but who knows if I would have had problems without it.
3. I have a new non-MB Behr radiator in the box that seems identical to the MB radiator other than the star. I got this a few years ago as a spare (at a price I could not pass up). It does NOT have this reinforcement. Some have reported that new radiators,Behr and others do have it - and some don't.
4. Do NOT go nuts tightening the new hoses.
2. IF you get a new radiator, you might consider putting in a reinforcement if it doesn't have one. There is a guy that sells a kit for this. The kit consists of a short length of copper tubing and some "plumber's epoxy". I installed this, and I haven't had any problems, but who knows if I would have had problems without it.
3. I have a new non-MB Behr radiator in the box that seems identical to the MB radiator other than the star. I got this a few years ago as a spare (at a price I could not pass up). It does NOT have this reinforcement. Some have reported that new radiators,Behr and others do have it - and some don't.
4. Do NOT go nuts tightening the new hoses.
2008 E320 Bluetec, 1988 560SL totalled unto death). 1997 Dodge Ram 1500, 1983 300CD
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radiator
The place selling the neck reinforcement STRIFE2 refers to is "mercedessource.com. I ordered one from them about two years ago and found it was actually designed for 380SL and earlier. The supplied copper pipe nipple was too small for the 560SL radiator neck.
The kit is madeup of a copper pipe nipple that fits snugly inside the upper radiator hose outlet. It is simply epoxied in place. I went to my Big Box hardware store, bought the right sized nipple and installed this the next time I did an antifreeze change and it seems to work great. I strongly recommend this preventive measure before you install your new radiator.
BTW this "kit" cannot be used to repair an already broken radiator neck. Heat cycling will mess it up.
The place selling the neck reinforcement STRIFE2 refers to is "mercedessource.com. I ordered one from them about two years ago and found it was actually designed for 380SL and earlier. The supplied copper pipe nipple was too small for the 560SL radiator neck.
The kit is madeup of a copper pipe nipple that fits snugly inside the upper radiator hose outlet. It is simply epoxied in place. I went to my Big Box hardware store, bought the right sized nipple and installed this the next time I did an antifreeze change and it seems to work great. I strongly recommend this preventive measure before you install your new radiator.
BTW this "kit" cannot be used to repair an already broken radiator neck. Heat cycling will mess it up.
Had the same thing happen on W124 back in the early '90's. I was able to get a new tank for that side of the radiator. It was a bit of a process to change out, but not too bad. I wonder if they still make those replacement tanks? But the replacement tank did have the reinforcement inside the neck.
83 280 SL- 5 speed-The PIG
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Re-coring a rad usually involves using the existing tanks on a new core.
You can do the opposite if your core is good. Find a used rad with a shitty core and steal the tanks for your good core.
Either way, engine mounts and subframe mounts being bad OR having been replaced recently could be the cause of your pain in the neck.
It would be a good opportunity to replace your coolant and do the appropriate flush including a new thermostat and new hoses, if required.
I re-cored my rad, replaced the water pump and thermostat and every single coolant hose on the car after a good flush using MB citrus whatever it's called.
You can do the opposite if your core is good. Find a used rad with a shitty core and steal the tanks for your good core.
Either way, engine mounts and subframe mounts being bad OR having been replaced recently could be the cause of your pain in the neck.
It would be a good opportunity to replace your coolant and do the appropriate flush including a new thermostat and new hoses, if required.
I re-cored my rad, replaced the water pump and thermostat and every single coolant hose on the car after a good flush using MB citrus whatever it's called.
rowdie - thanks for the url, that's a good price on the Behr unit.
strife2 - I had the engine mount changed out a month before the neck broke, perhaps a little to late.
rocky - yes, I knoe about the 350 kit and I plan to make one up myslef when I change the radiator.
So how difficult is the replacment of a radiator? Can a handy guy with time and patience do it himself? I don't have much recent expereince with car repairs but I do want to learn. Any special tools needed? What should I be on the look out for? I plan on changing out all hoses, drain plug, thermostat, expansion tank cap, and perhaps the water pump (opinions on this), power flush, check the fan clutch, add new benz antifreeze. Anyone have expereince with a Silla replacment radiator? hgb
strife2 - I had the engine mount changed out a month before the neck broke, perhaps a little to late.
rocky - yes, I knoe about the 350 kit and I plan to make one up myslef when I change the radiator.
So how difficult is the replacment of a radiator? Can a handy guy with time and patience do it himself? I don't have much recent expereince with car repairs but I do want to learn. Any special tools needed? What should I be on the look out for? I plan on changing out all hoses, drain plug, thermostat, expansion tank cap, and perhaps the water pump (opinions on this), power flush, check the fan clutch, add new benz antifreeze. Anyone have expereince with a Silla replacment radiator? hgb
While everyone is talking SL radiatiors I would like to ask for some advice on a 89 560SL's radiator. It is starting to seep (only when cold) around the bottom right tank where it is attached to the core. When it gets hot it seals up. (at least for now) Is this repairable or should I bite the bullet and go for a new one?
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Only a radiator shop can answer that question. The tank is plastic, the core is aluminum and has tabs that crimp the tank on. Some use a gasket.
Both weatherman and dragonslayer had issues with Silla units.
83 280 SL- 5 speed-The PIG
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Go to a rad shop first. The tank, theoretically, can be removed re-sealed and re-installed.
I think it's a very messy job, but replacing the radiator is pretty easy on these cars. You have to be careful not to round off the transmission cooling lines (use proper tools) and be careful not to bang anything around (like the radiator to the AC/condenser, and the FAN).
The last thing I did was to take the OLD upper hose and fill the radiator to the top, then with the NEW upper hose, fill this too; then remove the old hose and quickly connect everything. I had no "burping" problems.
The last thing I did was to take the OLD upper hose and fill the radiator to the top, then with the NEW upper hose, fill this too; then remove the old hose and quickly connect everything. I had no "burping" problems.
MBZ '85 380SL, RR '77 Silver Shadow II, MBZ '98 E300TD, BMW '02 E46
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That's good advise Strife, burping without a ramp can be a bit slow even with the heater tap on full open. The pre-fill of elements with fluids is usually the way to go, whether it's torque converters or radiators.
As a final note, please stop teasing us with your homebrew first gear start module. Most of us missed out on the $250 units when Bergworks was still in business.... stop it before we demand you startup a proper manufacturing effort!
Had computer problems so was not on line for a few days. Contacted a couple of good radiator shops and one shop said that they will "recrimp" the radiator for $75 if I pull it off and bring it to them. Has anyone had any success having this done? The other shop declined to attempt recrimping when he learned it was an older Mercedes radiator. Also quoted me an after market (says it is an exact fit replacement) for under $250 + labor if they install. I am leaning towards the repair right now.
MBZ '85 380SL, RR '77 Silver Shadow II, MBZ '98 E300TD, BMW '02 E46
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I'm having trouble visualizing what gets crimped on a radiator with a plastic tank. You may want a better explanation from them before handing it over. $75.00 sounds like an epoxy reseal which is applied after they test the rad in a dunk tank for leaks.
Good luck.
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The only thing that I can gather talking to them is they are going to tighten up the metal crimps that hold the plastic on to the raidator core and test it. Because it only leaks when cold they feel this will solve the problem. You may be right on the epoxy seal. I did not even consider this path. I just want to trust it on some long trips this summer. Thanks,
Actually, I moved, and never set up the infrastructure I need to do hardware hacking again (electronics is not my primary occupation), but recently I've been gathering the parts and taking some tools out of moving boxes to put together a newer, smaller design with the same firmware algorithm but more modern components.stop it before we demand you startup a proper manufacturing effort!
It looks like it will be a small, 1"x1"x1" (inside size) plastic potted cube with wires sticking out of it.
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Damn dude, that was forever ago. Does your wife still pin a note with the "new" address on your shirt?
Radiator replacement 1987 560SL
Spring is almost here and I've been sourcing the parts for the radiator replacment. Still looking for replacment directions but can't find any. Strife2 - you had advised me in a previous post... "be careful not to round off the transmission cooling lines (use proper tools)". What are the proper tools for this step?
Any other advise before I crawl around the benz a few weeks from now would be much appreciated!
Spring is almost here and I've been sourcing the parts for the radiator replacment. Still looking for replacment directions but can't find any. Strife2 - you had advised me in a previous post... "be careful not to round off the transmission cooling lines (use proper tools)". What are the proper tools for this step?
Any other advise before I crawl around the benz a few weeks from now would be much appreciated!
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