I got the tank back from Multi Radiator Services from Moncton Canada, and it looks like brand new. It required 3 high powered heat washes to get rid of all the junk inside the tank before they installed the new internal liner. The owner said he’s never done more than 2 on a tank to get clean, so it was really dirty. The tank was 2500 new (from the stealership) and 295 to get this process completed, so it was a no brainer. Even the gas cap now looks better than new! I got new hoses and fuel strainer, now the easy part, remembering how it all goes back together!!! I’ll keep everyone posted and stay tuned for pictures of the inside.
Your right luckymike, here is a picture of it installed, too bad there is a carpet covering over it too. it’ll be a couple days before I get the time to get all the hoses etc reinstalled. Has anyone ever added additional rust check over the tank while they have the compartment open? I was told the tank will last 30 years with the lining that’s in it now, so I’m figuring I’ll never have this area open again,,, wait I forgot about Murphy’s law! Thanks for the complement MBL87569SEC! Stay tuned!
Today I got all the plumbing reinstalled, I ran into a couple hiccups. First being 32 year old wires going to the fuel pump. I noticed the fuel pump wires cracked in multiple places so I replaced the wire and added extra security with some heat shrink.
I also had a heck of a time getting those small nuts holding the fuel pumps back in place. What I did was rolled up some cardboard and set the nut on top of the cardboard inside the socket bringing the nut flush with the end of the socket. I hope this might help someone else from pulling their own front teeth out with a pair of vise-grips like I wanted to do today! Also the last photo is my home-made fuel pump relay override wire with a in line fuse, that I used to test voltage at the fuel pumps by crossing ports 7 and 8. Next is to double check everything and add fuel and hope for the best! See photos and stay tuned!
Very nice. Most of the fuel pump / filter / regulator and hard lines have soft metal brass fittings) easy to round off, and expensive to replace. A set of decent flare nut line wrenches help avoid that.
A long time ago, I had a 'mechanic' replace pump and filter. The moron apparently used any open end wrenches that would kind of fit (from his SAE set I found out later), and even a vise grip on one fitting. They were all rounded off. One created a small permanent leak from over tightening. I wound up replacing once more, pumps, filter, hard lines, metal = rubber lines with all fittings, ouch.
This is a very nice write up on the repairs and well documented with pictures. Congrats on doing this and putting it up! Very educational and helpful. It certainly has made me think ( have some fuel issues too, and I am wondering if this is a direction I might need to explore). Thanks again, I look forward to seeing more!
So I got the fuel pumps all together and hooked up, added fuel to the car, and proudly went over to start the car. It started first try, sputtered for a couple seconds, then came to life! I was doing a quick check around the car as it sat there idling, when I could smell gas, I went to the fuel pump area and it was leaking gas on the floor. I ran to shut the car off, got the kill switches turned off, threw a few choice words into the air, then removed the culprit. The line that went from fuel pump to fuel pump has sprung a rather heavy leak around the flanged coupling. I removed it and decided to do the ole farm boy trick. I used a Dremel to cut the brass flange off. Then I replaced the hose with 14mm ID fuel hose, now all I need to do is reattach it and see how it works. It was the first time I actually sat in the car thinking I could take it for a drive, maybe tomorrow! I’m not sure if anyone else has ever removed one of these brass flanges, so I took a few pictures to share with the group. I always double clamp them, and should likely get some fuel injection clamps on there, but it should ok to see if it’ll work. Thanks for the compliments and Stay tuned!
Already folks, I’ve got the car running for the first time. It idles perfect without a miss. I went to take it for a drive and it appears to have little power. When you put the gas pedal to the floor it “pops” and stalls out until you let off the throttle. I’ve searched for vacume leaks, to no avail. Only thing I found was a weird hole in the breather cover, I’ve attached photos. It has a black rubber that don’t seal very well to the opening below. I’m in need of suggestions. I got it to run, now I need to get it moving! It has no power at all under acceleration. I’m at a loss of thoughts it could be. Suggestions are very welcomed! Also why can’t you upload videos? I have a video of the car starting and running. It idles perfect.
That hole is there for adjusting the duty cycle on the CIS. Do a lot of reading before you even think about adjusting it. I would pull the air filter and make sure all your throttle linkages are well lubricated. Every one of them. If one is hung up it can create the symptoms you have mentioned.
Check to make sure your exhaust isn't plugged up. Very high possibility that running the cruddy fuel could have clogged up your cat or that the pre-cat has come apart and clogged the cat. It happened to me... Car idled beautifully and ran like hell. Had the cat cut out and exhaust straight piped.
If you live in an area with emissions testing, tell the shop you want "test pipes" welded in.
Hello everyone, my 1984 500sel has been acting strange lately, with the temperature gauge rising more than usual when sitting in traffic and the needle also jumps occasionally. There’s a new loud buzzing noise coming from engine bay so I took off the air filter and found the source. It’s a part...
As we slowly get to 10 people in for thicker rear sway bars I figure I should do my homework on rear springs.
When I do the rear bar I'm going to change the rear springs and all 4 shocks. I'd like the rear to sit about level or maybe slightly, slightly, higher (it seems like it's sagging a...
My clock will work for about 5 minutes once resetting the time and then stop. I have replaced the capacities in my other clocks. Is this likely a capacitor or something else?
THANKS!
Richard
1989 420SEL WDB1260352A
Transmission: 722355 03 275716
Klms 296,000
What can cause a Solenoid to run poorly?
Are you able to replace the solenoid without removing Transmission out?
Transmission has been serviced but my gears are rough when shifting and put it in reverse it delays for 2-3...
Thought it was about time I started a thread to document the restoration of my 560 SEC. I've had the car around 5 years I think, during that time I've driven it as a daily driver, then had it off the road for approx. two years, got it back up-and-running, started driving it again as a daily...
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Planetkiller · updated 
