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1987 300TD - 1981 300D - 1990 190E 2.6 (Non Running for Sale) - 1993 190E 2.3
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285 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have all the parts to re-do my rear multi-link suspension found here: 201 124 Chassis Rear End Control Arm Link Overhaul Kit - made by Meyle | MercedesSource.com

Now I need to know what the best way to do this is. I may have access to a lift so that will make it easier. Questions:

Can this be done with removing only the wheels?

The current bolts/hardware is standard open end wrench, whereas the new hardware is "star" shaped. What is this called and what size is it?

How critical is it to torque them to spec?

Is there a write up sheet on how to do this with torque specs?
 

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Registered
1987 300TD - 1981 300D - 1990 190E 2.6 (Non Running for Sale) - 1993 190E 2.3
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285 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
bump

Help a brotha?
 

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W124 Moderator
86 190E 2.3L 16V, 2 95 320TE's, 02 S500
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13,173 Posts
jon

go to the DIY section of this forum and click on the service manual link. The replacement bolts are most likely torx bolts or star. Hard to tell with out a picture and yes, it will be best to torque everything to spec. However, you don't want to do that until the suspension on the car is "loaded" Meaning, don't torque every things down with the suspensing "hanging".

Good Luck,

Jayare

ps - where in FL are you?
 

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Premium Member
About a dozen 1988, 1989, 1990, and 1991 sedans, wagons, 4Matics and 1 coupe
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5,512 Posts
1) IMO replacing all those parts is overkill. The forward upper and lower arms are usually the ones that develop bad bushings. Two of my 88s have 200k miles on them and only those arms have been replaced. Still, it's your money and replacing all the arms won't hurt.
2) As mentioned above, I have replaced the forward arms on my 88s. IIRC the fasteners in the bolt kit are 12 point Allen head, not Torx. IOW they're like the ones used on the cylinder head bolts, the rear axle-to-diff, etc. You can't make a 6 point Allen or Torx bit work. You'll only strip the head and then you're f#@&ed. Buy a set of the bits from MAC or even Sears. The price for Snap-On will make your head explode.
3) Replace the links sequentially but install fasteners loosely. As Jayare says, it is absolutely critical that the fasteners be tightened only with the full vehicle weight on the rear suspension. Tighten them with the car on a hoist or stands with the suspension hanging and the new bushings will be over-twisted and possibly tear.
 
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