1987 300TD Crankshaft Seal Help

Looks like one is teflon & the other viton.

Driving the seal in has never been an issue for me, at least with similar VW engines. I think you may need to research how best to R&R the crank pulley hub, but if you remove the radiator it might not be so bad*. Is the AC charged? If not, you could remove the condenser as well, which would allow lots more room to fit a conventional puller in there.

One trick we learned with VWs, is to drive the seal in just past flush if the crank/hub has a groove worn in it from the old seal lip. This allows the seal a completely new surface on which to ride, and thus less chance of leakage.




* I've never actually done this job on an MB before, so I'm just thinking out loud.

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I have parts on the way, and my radiator is out. Cleaned engine area and now needing to access the crankshaft seal...anyone have some input for me?

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Still need some direction here...I hear that I have to have a 27mm socket and a cheater bar on the ratchet to get enough torque. I am doing this on the ground, do I need to get it raised up on jacks a bit? What do I hold the hub with? (is "hub" what it is called?)

jonbobshinigin go to "124 DIY" thread and go to the "Online W124 service/shop manual". Click on the manuals and go through it, you should find what you need there. Good Luck.

jonbobshinigin said:

Still need some direction here...I hear that I have to have a 27mm socket and a cheater bar on the ratchet to get enough torque. I am doing this on the ground, do I need to get it raised up on jacks a bit? What do I hold the hub with? (is "hub" what it is called?)

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To do this job correctly, you'll need a crank hub puller , a crank seal install tool (you can probably get away with not using this), and a flywheel lock . Of the three, the flywheel lock might be the most important, since I don't know of a better way to lock the engine in place without screwing up the ring gear.