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1987 300TD - 1981 300D - 1990 190E 2.6 (Non Running for Sale) - 1993 190E 2.3
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285 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need to replace my crankshaft seal and I need some info...I have a 30 year Benz Mechanic who can stop by and help out if I get into a pinch and another vehicle so I don't have to rush:

What special tools do I need?

Any special process or things to look out for?

Which seal? There are two front seals shown here.
1987 Mercedes 300TD Crankshaft Seal - Engine Mechanical - Elring, Goetze, Victor Reinz, Front, Rear - PartsGeek


Ive been prolonging this for a while but now my radiator went out because I hit a large bump so I am addressing several things at once. Radiator, Tensioner pulley, tensioner shock, thermostat, and fixing the bolt that broke off on the water pump when I changed it a couple months ago.
 

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Cruise Control
'87 300TD Myna 7mm pump and HX30 /'89 Vanagon TDI 12mm pump and GT2052
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52,235 Posts
Driving the seal in has never been an issue for me, at least with similar VW engines. I think you may need to research how best to R&R the crank pulley hub, but if you remove the radiator it might not be so bad*. Is the AC charged? If not, you could remove the condenser as well, which would allow lots more room to fit a conventional puller in there.

One trick we learned with VWs, is to drive the seal in just past flush if the crank/hub has a groove worn in it from the old seal lip. This allows the seal a completely new surface on which to ride, and thus less chance of leakage.




* I've never actually done this job on an MB before, so I'm just thinking out loud.
 

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1987 300TD - 1981 300D - 1990 190E 2.6 (Non Running for Sale) - 1993 190E 2.3
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285 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
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Bump....

I have parts on the way, and my radiator is out. Cleaned engine area and now needing to access the crankshaft seal...anyone have some input for me?
 

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Registered
1987 300TD - 1981 300D - 1990 190E 2.6 (Non Running for Sale) - 1993 190E 2.3
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285 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Bump

Still need some direction here...I hear that I have to have a 27mm socket and a cheater bar on the ratchet to get enough torque. I am doing this on the ground, do I need to get it raised up on jacks a bit? What do I hold the hub with? (is "hub" what it is called?)
 

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Mercedes 1986 300E 165,000 miles
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110 Posts
jonbobshinigin go to "124 DIY" thread and go to the "Online W124 service/shop manual". Click on the manuals and go through it, you should find what you need there. Good Luck.
 

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Cruise Control
'87 300TD Myna 7mm pump and HX30 /'89 Vanagon TDI 12mm pump and GT2052
Joined
·
52,235 Posts
Still need some direction here...I hear that I have to have a 27mm socket and a cheater bar on the ratchet to get enough torque. I am doing this on the ground, do I need to get it raised up on jacks a bit? What do I hold the hub with? (is "hub" what it is called?)
To do this job correctly, you'll need a crank hub puller , a crank seal install tool (you can probably get away with not using this), and a flywheel lock . Of the three, the flywheel lock might be the most important, since I don't know of a better way to lock the engine in place without screwing up the ring gear.
 
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