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I have read somewhere there is a site that shows how to repair the electric clock in Mercedes Benz cars. My clock stopped about a week ago and I am constantly looking at it for the time. I set it at 5:00pm so I am always off work. Could anyone help? Thanks WTB
 

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If it stopped working suddenly, the contact may have become loose.

Usually the two condensers on the plate fail, but then the clock will only stop at certain temperatures or will start working if you shake it a bit. After a while it will not longer work at all.

You'll need 2 Elkos 100uF 16V 105°C (25V or 50V is OK).

Here are some pics, only the text is deutsch:

http://www.ikonengold.de/bilderkiste/Rory/workshop_DZM-Uhr.htm

Cheers

Martin
 

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This is the last thing I need to fix on my car, it never worked since the day I got it so I used my trusty wristwatch for now. I kinda miss just looking down and checking what time it is, rather than lift my hand only to find out my sleeve was covering it, etc.
 

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Thanks for all the help, I'll try pulling up that site and see if I understand it. Yeah I know there are alot more important things I need to fix on my car also but i got use to looking at that clock for the correct time. It just all of a sudden stopped. I guess its 5:00 o'clock somewhere. Take care WTB:thumbsup:
 

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This is the last thing I need to fix on my car, it never worked since the day I got it so I used my trusty wristwatch for now. I kinda miss just looking down and checking what time it is, rather than lift my hand only to find out my sleeve was covering it, etc.
Patrick! Shame on you! I thought you were so meticulous on your cars....I think its cool to have "even the clock working" on a 28 year old car. I don't have a tach, so the clock is the entire guage.

Here's a couple of sites that repair and update them:

Clock Repairs — Overseas Speedometer

Lauderdale Speedometer - speedometers, gauges, clocks, tachometers, repairs, sales, vdo, stewart warner, faria, hewitt, wema, dynalco, ss white
 

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Patrick! Shame on you! I thought you were so meticulous on your cars....I think its cool to have "even the clock working" on a 28 year old car. I don't have a tach, so the clock is the entire guage.

Here's a couple of sites that repair and update them:

Clock Repairs — Overseas Speedometer

Lauderdale Speedometer - speedometers, gauges, clocks, tachometers, repairs, sales, vdo, stewart warner, faria, hewitt, wema, dynalco, ss white
Thanks Ron! I know, I've never fixed that since I got the car. :eek: Thanks for the links! :thumbsup:
 

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I have read somewhere there is a site that shows how to repair the electric clock in Mercedes Benz cars. My clock stopped about a week ago and I am constantly looking at it for the time. I set it at 5:00pm so I am always off work. Could anyone help? Thanks WTB
The clock is quite easy to repair. There are two 100 uf condensers on the circuit board side by side positive terminal facing the out side edge of the circuit board. Replace them with 100uf 32volt or even 100 uf 50 volts condensers form radio shack. The clock has to be removed from the tachometer. Hands pull straight off tachometer and clock. remove little screws that hold face plate on. You need to unsolder the ground connection at the back of the clock panel to remove the clock circuit board.
I presume you know how to remove the instrument panel. Make up two hooks out of a wire coat hanger with a foot on it 90 degree bend about 3/ 4 in long and insert that at 10 and 2 oclock positions and turn the foot so its toward the instruments and then pull steady and firmly. You have to disconnect two light sockets ( they pull straight out )one for the seat belt light and the other the glow plug light. There is a push on connector for power to the clock and a connector for the tachometer.
There is room to remove the clock and tachometer with out taking anything more apart. You will need a 6 mm open end wrench. There are 4 small bolts to remove. Its a bit tight but it can be done. The whole job took me about 1 hour start to finish and the clock works again well and keeps perfect time.
 

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Update: I just did this repair today. The instructions above are OK but:

1. "Condenser" is an old term. When you go to Radio Shack, ask for a "capacitor" and they'll know what you need. Also, make sure you understand which end of the capacitor is negative and which is positive.

2. My tach needle would not come off, so instead of forcing it I removed the screws holding in the tach unit and the gently lifted the entire assembly (clock, tach, and face) far enough to slip the clock out.

I wouldn't recommend trying this repair unless you have some experience soldering electronics and can be meticulous. There are a few little details (screws, neoprene gasket, etc) not mentioned above, and you need to be careful in order not to damage anything.

Also, always disconnect the negative terminal from the battery before removing the instrument cluster! Otherwise, it only takes one brief contact of a bulb wire to the case to fry a circuit trace on the main board, and then you've got two repairs to do.

My total cost: $3.22 and about an hour, and now the clocks works great again!
 

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I am in the midst of this repair right now. There are probably more important things on my 300D that need done but I need a break from the heavy jobs. Right now my car literally won’t give me the time of day, and that’s just unacceptable.
I had trouble pulling the tach needle off. I did not want to break stuff! But actually I was able to get the clock out without pulling the tach needle off with some gentle persuasion. Clock hands came off easy. To remove capacitors I rigged up my soldering gun on the bench with a zip tie or n trigger to keep the heat on, held the clock circuit board capacitor contacts on the gun tip with one hand and used the other hand to wedge a razor knife between the capacitor and the board, prying up a bit. When the solder melted, the capacitor popped out! I don’t know how you guys that are pros would do it, but this worked for me. I got a pack of new 50V 100 uF capacitors coming in the mail tomorrow so I’ll see how that works out.
Thanks all for the good info!
 

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Soldered in the new capacitors today on the clock and buttoned it back up. The hands on the clock were installed at 12 o’clock both so they would read right (you don’t want the small hand halfway between hours and the big hand on 12, that just wouldn’t make sense). Put in some warm white LEDs in the dash lights as well. The clock is running good and I can see my instruments at night! Yay!
 
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