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hey guys, im a newb to the forum, had my 300d for a few years now, has 243k on the clock, runs great, love the car, starting to get some good rust on it running around in iowa winters, i have found the rear drivers side trailing arm (control arm) has a crack on the bottom side and the springs is literally trying to push its way through the bottom of the trailing arm. im a professional diesel mechanic so i know how to run a wrench and have a functional shop at my home. im really looking for a good step by step instruction on how this repair is done what special tools i may need, and most important where can i find a new trailing arm or a good used trailing arm? i am not having any luck coming up with one. any insight would be greatly appreciated. thanks in advance to anyone willing to give me some help.

thanks
adam
 

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1984 300D
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5,070 Posts
hey guys, im a newb to the forum, had my 300d for a few years now, has 243k on the clock, runs great, love the car, starting to get some good rust on it running around in iowa winters, i have found the rear drivers side trailing arm (control arm) has a crack on the bottom side and the springs is literally trying to push its way through the bottom of the trailing arm. im a professional diesel mechanic so i know how to run a wrench and have a functional shop at my home. im really looking for a good step by step instruction on how this repair is done what special tools i may need, and most important where can i find a new trailing arm or a good used trailing arm? i am not having any luck coming up with one. any insight would be greatly appreciated. thanks in advance to anyone willing to give me some help.

thanks
adam
About 4-5 years ago a new one was arond $1200 each and I think that was without the Hub and Bearings and related parts.

I bought 2 used ones from a Junky Yard out here in California, I don't remember the name and am not 100% sure that this is the place:

11203 Tuxford Street
Sun Valley, California USA 91352
Phone: (818) 7680704 FAX: (818) 7680526
; they said the sell a lot of them due to the Rust issue (My Car came for the east cost and has rust).

When they arrived the Sheetmetal backing plates were bent up; but they even came with the Parking Brake Cables.

However, there are lots of Junk Yards that will pull them for you. In the old days they used Radios and if one Junk Yard did not nave what you needed they contacted another that did. Now I guess it is the internet.

I only replace the Driveside on as it cracked badly due to me hitting something. I used a Spring Compressor but found out later that it is not needed.
You might want to replace the Rubber Bushings on it.
I did not use any Specialty Tools that I can think of.
Some have said you need to drop the rear of the Driveshaft to get one of the Bolts out. I don't recall that.
I am going to PM you some info as it is to much to put here.

If you get a used Trailing Arm I would leave the Wheel Bearings alone unless you know they are no good.
The 2 methods of getting the Hub out of the Housing almost always damage the Bearings.
It is also easier to Slidehammer or Beat the Hub out with the Arm attached to the Car.
 

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1981 W123 300D non turbo, 1992 190E 1.8 <=> 2.0
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It isn't laid out as a DIY but most of it is in there...

Rear subframe removal and bushing replacement - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

On the whole I reckon you are better off removing the subframe and at least lowering it from the car so you can reach the bolts on the trailing arm. Haynes says you can replace sub frame mounts one at a time. I say whilst that is possible you'll probably end up with a saggy bottom (especially on old mounts) as you need to twist them quite a way down to reach the trailing arm bolts.

As for special tools - you don't really need any. The rear springs can be removed by just raising and raising the back end of the car (so long as you've disconnected the shocks + brake calipers + axles!). They are no way as bad ass as the front ones which will try and remove body parts given half the chance...

...the best way I've seen - and tried - for sub frame removal is just to wheel it out the back of the car. You really need to raise the back end of the car for that though. And PLEASE NOTE I've never done this with an engine and transmission in place (but others have - so eat dirt W123).
 

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1999 CL500
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they still go for over a grand brand new....find a non rusty one from a donor car

where are you based?



p.s. i believe 123 and 126s used the same trailing arms so look for either one
 

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1981 W123 300D non turbo, 1992 190E 1.8 <=> 2.0
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...

p.s. i believe 123 and 126s used the same trailing arms so look for either one
R107 / W114 / W115 / W123 / and first generation W126 steel ones are all the same. I think the W116 ones are very similar but I think the axles are of a wider diamater so they may not be a good choice...

There are also aluminium versions of the steel trailing arms that were fitted to certain W126 and 107 models. I'm not sure if they were exclusively the 560SEC or not and I'm not sure which 107s they were fitted to - probably the versions with the bigger engines...

They have an anti-squat mechanism and they are slightly heavier than the steel versions. I'm in the middle of playing about with a set here =>

Trying to fit an aluminium W126 / 107 trailing arm to a W123 - a question of compatib - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

I'm still not sure if I'll be fitting them.
 
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