[joconab]

I did my search on this subject and got very little but nothing is close to my problem. I found similar problems on the M117 450Sl's
I have an 82 380SL which have been parked for most of the winter. It started and idled okay. When I tried to accelerate from a dead stop the engine sputtered and stalled. Once this happened the engine is hard to restart. It took 3-4 cranks to get started again. This happened about two blocks from my house so when I got the engine running again I just let it idles in Drive back to the house. I have a spare WUR and changed it out and the same problem persisted. It has been a while since I changed the fuel filter. Could a clog fuel filter contribute to this problem? Are there any other problem areas I should look into? Thanks in advance and appreciation for any inputs.

 

[Fotografa]

This is one of those problems that could have a few different causes, but to answer your question about the fuel filter, yes, this could cause the problem, and the first thing you should do is change that, as you will need to anyway.

Usually a problem like this is caused by either lack of fuel, or lack of spark, so also check distributor cap, plug leads, plugs, coil and alternator, also might be worth looking at your fuel accumulator.

Another problem could be the quality of the fuel.

 

[ChuangTzu]

I did my search on this subject and got very little but nothing is close to my problem. I found similar problems on the M117 450Sl's
I have an 82 380SL which have been parked for most of the winter. It started and idled okay. When I tried to accelerate from a dead stop the engine sputtered and stalled. Once this happened the engine is hard to restart. It took 3-4 cranks to get started again. This happened about two blocks from my house so when I got the engine running again I just let it idles in Drive back to the house. I have a spare WUR and changed it out and the same problem persisted. It has been a while since I changed the fuel filter. Could a clog fuel filter contribute to this problem? Are there any other problem areas I should look into? Thanks in advance and appreciation for any inputs.

I had a similar problem on my 78 450... Though, once I got over a 1000rpm or so, the car ran fine. It was just getting from idle up to there that was difficult and usually resulted in sputtering out. Changing the rotor, cap, plugs, and wires solved it. But as Fotografa said, it could be a number of things.

Can you rev. the engine in neutral?

 

[joconab]

[QUOTECan you rev. the engine in neutral?[/QUOTE]

Yes, I can rev it in neutral but it started to sputtering and stalling at higher RPM than at idle. What give?

 

[joconab]

The car died completely and won't start anymore for a few weeks now. I changed the fuel filter today with a new Bosch filter. Does it need to be bled? Anyway, while I was under the car, I tested the fuel pump and it works fine. The car still won't start even if I spray starter fluid into the fuel distributor. Does the fuel pump run when the ignition is turned on? I didn't hear it run on mine. I asked a friend starting the car while I was under and behind the pump and heard the pump turned for a very brief moment when the friend stop cranking the engine. I am thinking it could be the fuel pump relay. Where is the relay located on my 82 380SL? Are all 380's & 500's engine use the same relay. Please help.

 

[bereng]

Hi,

I also have a 6L, but a 300sl, and yes the fuel pump runs for 1? second or so before starting the engine to build pressure for startup.

Can't help you much more thoug, keep us posted.

Cheers

 

[dugald]

The car still won't start even if I spray starter fluid into the fuel distributor.

It sounds more like an ignition problem than a fuel problem.
Did you check for spark?

 

[joconab]

It sounds more like an ignition problem than a fuel problem.
Did you check for spark?

That's an idea. I'll give it a try. What could be the source of no sparks. I gave her a tune up with new plugs, wire, caps, rotor before she went into storage last year. I have an extra set of cap and rotor and just swapped it trouble shooting this problem back in April. Have not check the coil. Will any coil do or is it a specific one for our car.

 

[isthisdave]

The coil is model specific.

 

[ScottinSoCal]

I want to throw something in here about the accelerator pump, and needing to rebuild the carburetor, just to see if anyone would spend the time trying to find it. But I won't. That would be mean.

 

[joconab]

The coil is model specific.

How do I test the coil?

 

[Nascar Fan]

After a cranking session, pull a plug and see if it's wet or dry. Does the air valve (the flapper thing that goes down with air flow) move freely? If starting fluid does not do anything, I agree with the fire angle.

 

[isthisdave]

Start by pumping up your Google Fu.



How To Test Your Coil

Bench Testing Your Coil

 

[fletch62]

Check your airflow sensor plate height, and adjust the stop if its not dead on.

Larry

 

[joconab]

Thanks Dave. I feel like a "Fu". Never thought about Google. I used it for just about anything else...duh!

 

[joconab]

Check your airflow sensor plate height, and adjust the stop if its not dead on.

Larry

Larry,
I am tempted to purchase one of those CD repair manual. It looks like you have a paper back version which I like to own better. Where did you get it? How much?
Thanks,

 

[isthisdave]

Larry,
I am tempted to purchase one of those CD repair manual. It looks like you have a paper back version which I like to own better. Where did you get it? How much?
Thanks,

Check post #4 on this link.

No personal knowledge, but I've read good feedback about this vendor on several threads.

 

[joconab]

Check post #4

No personal knowledge, but I've read good feedback.

??? Post #4??? What do you mean by reading good feedback.

 

[isthisdave]

??? Post #4??? What do you mean by reading good feedback.

joconab, sorry I wasn't very clear. Try it now.

 

[joconab]

Post #4 of this thread was my post. Still confused.