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2004 S430
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23 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
i just got the louvers out of of my car and i am ready to take off old paint and redo them. i would like to know if anyone has repainted theirs or have ever did this project? also what kind of paint to use and what the original color was. i believe the color was astral silver but not sure. if any one can help me with this i would really appreciate it. thanks. dominick
 

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'80 450SLC Afro RHD Ikonengold
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2,951 Posts
I have seen MANY louvres painted (a few can stand African sun) and the results were disaster.
Can be that ALL of them did not have it done professionaly but could be that it is impossible to paint that kind of plastic.

My advise is to go local Merc dealer and ask for the price of replacement. Go to reputable panelbeater shop and ask for paint job as if it was a plastic bumper (special undercoat for plastic than paint of choice over that), compare and make your own judgement.

One thing for sure... louvres look very ugly if sun damaged.
 

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280SLC, 350SLC (parts car)
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28 Posts
Hi,

I had the same flaking paint and resolved it in a slightly different way. If you aren't precious about the whole originality thing, you may want to try it. Basically I cut the louvres out with a dremel tool, and then tinted the outside sheet of glass. It has made the SLC look a lot less early '70s without the louvres there.

As far as painting plastic, it is all in the preparation. Just make sure the surface has no flakey bits on it (by sanding and cleaning carefully) and prime with plastic primer. It is very strange watery stuff that clings to plastic and is flexible. It will take virtually any topcoat you can throw at it. Also make sure the paint has completely cured before reassembling the louvres. When they are together they are pretty much airtight so the paint may not go off properly. If you are worried about the heat getting to the louvres, perhaps you could put a heatsheild film on the inside of the outer glass while it is all apart.

Good luck.
 

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1979 450 slc
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17 Posts
Demain..thanx for posting that pic,I also need to replace or repair those louvers as one is peeling a bit and somehow a silverfish has entombed itself on the inside of the other one.. not a good look lol. But i am afraid a badly done repair will look worse. I read your previous post on getting them out,would you mind going into more detail?. Does everything go back together properly eg. clips covers and little springy things,roof lining and door trim ? Is there any need to remove the outside crome? you also mentioned a couple of other steps? any special tools needed ? I was quoted $750 AU a side by a panel shop that is familiar with this repair so I am torn between a pro job or my attempt!!.
 

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280SLC, 350SLC (parts car)
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28 Posts
To be quite honest, it is a prick of a job. It depends on how much your time is worth to you whether or not the price quoted is expensive. It can take MANY hours to complete the job. You feel like you are taking apart the entire interior just to get at the windows. Eventually you get there, but if you are not a patient person, it will drive you bonkers.

There are no magic tools required, just screwdrivers and usual stuff and a lateral mind to work out what order everything comes out in (and goes back in..) Just don't force anything! If it doesn't come freely, it's still attached! If I remember correctly you start with taking off the moulding that runs along the top of the (front) windscreen and holds the rear view mirror. It's pretty much held on by the sunvisors and mirror. As you take off a part, more fixings are revealed and you work your way toward the rear and the windows. It's no wonder these Benzes don't rattle! The windows come out with the chrome divider bit attached (I think.. it's been a long time), but the main exterior chrome pieces definately stay in place. All the clippy type things survived and were totally reusable. As long as you dont force anything getting them off!

If you want to do what I did and lose the '70s tacky louvre action, you just brutally chop the louvres out, leaving the outside bit to hold the glasses, and then machine it down smooth. I filled a couple of molding holes with body filler and then primed and painted the unit silver, made sure it was completely dry, then used silicon sealer to hold the double glaze unit together and seal it all from the weather.

It's been just over a year since I did it and it still looks great. It has never let water in, is still clean in there and the paint has survived remarkably well. I still think it is an improvement in the looks too!

Good luck.
 

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I am about to reinstall one side (at the same time I take the other side out for accuracy of reinstallation). To remove, each step is easy, but there are many steps. Ist, remove upper interior passenger handles. 2nd, remove visors. 3rd, remove all upper-side non-headliner
trim except the ones with seat belt routing holes. Some pieces need to be patiently rocked back and forth while pulling out. 3rd, remove lower rear seat. My 78 has two red tabs you need to push out as you manhandle it upward and out.4th. Remove upper rear seat by raising up six inches and pulling towards front:There are two screws on each extreme side just below the actual seat. (get your head waaaay down). I believe I used#10 socket with extension. 5th. remove all upper trim pieces with seatbelt routing holes.. you will need to unscrew seatbelt mounting bolts and feed belt through upper side trim piece to remove.
6th, Remove rear "door" panels. Of course there are no actual doors. You can leave the seat belt routed through them as there is no need to remove them from the car. 7th, remove front pillar on the front of louvre assembly. ( I define this assembly as two plates of curved glass with louvre inside) I think the screw is on the bottom as I remember. 8th, unscrew screws around louvre assembly on the inside. Put all parts in a bag. When you reinstall one side later, you can disassemble the other side at the same time and not stress out on how it goes back together. Two screws have rectangular washers. There is a square spacer that may fall out when you remove assembly. It goes above louvre assembly frame above upper screw threads. 9th remove assembly to the inside gently rocking. do not force. These are two very expensive curved pieces of glass. After removal, the outside glass came off with a little heat (hairdryer). the inside needed some goof off sprayed inside and swirled near the seals against the glass. then heat applied. any kind of force will bread the glass especially near the sharp corner area. Take an hour rocking back and forth with a heat gun if needed. Once out , sand for a couple hours, use sem flexible primer and sem bumper paint (silver) It is almost exact maybe a bit darker silver. Better than original. Spray all coats very lightly, no need to sand between coats, wait 15 min bet coats. an orange peel is ok and looks very good. when sealing completed louvre, use clear silicone in a calking gun, use only enough to make contact as you don't want it visable as you press down glass and have it inevitably ooze out from the edges a little. Clear silicone is less visable in case it oozes too much. Of course you want to remove old seal with small flathead before applying silicone. Make sure inside surfaces are cleaned with laquer thinner and then windex before installing , they will be forever inaccessible hereafter. good luck , sorry for any mistakes, I had a couple drinks while writing this, Bruce. ps, use window sealer in perimeter crack in louvre assembly to insure seal ( the flowing kind)
 

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73 450 SLC, 99 SL500
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181 Posts
I know this is an old thread, but I'm in the middle of this job and need some help.

Meccatwin said" "7th, remove front pillar on the front of louvre assembly. ( I define this assembly as two plates of curved glass with louvre inside) I think the screw is on the bottom as I remember. 8th, unscrew screws around louvre assembly on the inside."

Is the "pillar" the chrome piece that is also the track for the movable part of the rear window? If so, I can't get mine to move at all -- and (I think) I've removed all the screws. My SLC is a '73, so maybe it's different?

My inside glass fell out when I tapped the outside of the glass assembly. The slanted louvers are held in with black sealant -- which I've cut around the glass, but the louvers still won't budge.

Any thoughts?
 

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73 450 SLC, 99 SL500
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Well, I got everything removed -- without breaking anything! My '73 has a metal plate that holds the shoulder belt anchor bolt and the inside window track. -- I had to remove it to get the bottom of the window louver assembly out...


BTW, the rear windows would only go down a couple of inches, so I removed the 6" circular access cover and sprayed all the moving parts I could see with TriFlow PTFE lubricant. Now they go all the way down!
 
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