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80’ 450 SL
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16 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a tie rod worn on the driver’s side. I just got this car for my daughter, so I ordered both tie rods, the center link and the steering damper from Pelican Parts. All the parts are Billstein. To my surprise, the parts are thinner and the tie rod ends and center link ends have lock nuts rather than castle nuts and cotter pins. Pelican could not see a diagram of the Mercedes OEM equivalent parts but advised that all replacement suspension components are being manufactured this way. I will take a trip to my local Mercedes parts counter to confirm this, but is this true and how reliable are the lock nuts vs the castle nuts? Had I just ordered tie rods they would not have mated up to the larger holes in the center link. There are no instructions so I have no idea what the torque specs are on the replacement parts if I decide to use them. It is a few years since I have done suspension work but I am more comfortable with castle nuts and cotter pins and i would prefer identical oem replacements if still availble. Any input on this is much appreciated. Thanks.
 

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1983 380SL, ivory/dk brown, 46k miles, dual roller timing chain. 1986 560SL, red/white, 190K mile.
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6,742 Posts
I recently replaced the Tie Rods on my 1983 380SL with Meyle parts.
The originals had Castle Nuts with Cotter Pins, but the Meyle had Locking Nuts.
 

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80’ 450 SL
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16 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I recently replaced the Tie Rods on my 1983 380SL with Meyle parts.
The originals had Castle Nuts with Cotter Pins, but the Meyle had Locking Nuts.
Thanks Carl. Did you just tighten to remove play similar to tightening a castle nut, or did Meyle provide a torque spec?
 

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'80 450SLC Afro RHD Ikonengold
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2,884 Posts
I used red loctite (263) on the nuts in addition to nyloc as I was a bit unease. Probably unwarranted unease.

I suggest to apply copper grease on the mating surfaces on pins to make subsequent removal effortless.
 

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1985 380 SL
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86 Posts
The workshop manual shows 35 Nm for the castle nuts, they are then further tightened until the pin can be inserted. Therefore I would use the 35 Nm value for the locknuts. The taper shaft & bore should be clean & dry.
 

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80’ 450 SL
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Discussion Starter #6
The workshop manual shows 35 Nm for the castle nuts, they are then further tightened until the pin can be inserted. Therefore I would use the 35 Nm value for the locknuts. The taper shaft & bore should be clean & dry.
Helpful, thanks. I did some research and the only after market tie rod with castle nuts and grease fittings seems to be Moog. Even TRW has lock nuts. Still makes me nervous, but I guess I have to get with the times. Having the torque spec makes me more comfortable. Thanks much, I appreciate all the Help.
joe
 

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w108 & w107
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90 Posts
I also did this nearly two years ago, and i marked the nylock nut with white paint across the nut and part of the end of the thread (i do this to all bolted connections). Whenever i go near there, a quick glance and i know they haven't moved.
 

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1983 380SL, ivory/dk brown, 46k miles, dual roller timing chain. 1986 560SL, red/white, 190K mile.
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6,742 Posts
I just tightened both ends to 26 ft-lbs, 15 ft-lbs for the two adjusting bolts.
So far so good.
You gonna need a front-end alignment.
I measured the old with the new very carefully but was still slightly off when I took it in for alignment.
Still driveable and took my time taking it in for alignment.

I do like the suggestion of copper grease, and Loctite - maybe blue Loctite because red would require heat to disassemble. What do you guys think - red or blue????
 

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80’ 450 SL
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16 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I just tightened both ends to 26 ft-lbs, 15 ft-lbs for the two adjusting bolts.
So far so good.
You gonna need a front-end alignment.
I measured the old with the new very carefully but was still slightly off when I took it in for alignment.
Still driveable and took my time taking it in for alignment.

I do like the suggestion of copper grease, and Loctite - maybe blue Loctite because red would require heat to disassemble. What do you guys think - red or blue????
I am considering Loctite Threadlocker 242 Blue (removable without heat). I like the idea of marking the nuts to monitor movement
 

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1983 380 SL
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2,494 Posts
Two years ago I replaced the drivers side tie rod on my '83, the replacement came with lock nuts and no instructions. I made it RFT and never looked back. Now that I've read some of the comments I think I'll take a peek next time I have her on the lift and put one of those alignment marks on the nut. Great suggestion.
 

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80’ 450 SL
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16 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Two years ago I replaced the drivers side tie rod on my '83, the replacement came with lock nuts and no instructions. I made it RFT and never looked back. Now that I've read some of the comments I think I'll take a peek next time I have her on the lift and put one of those alignment marks on the nut. Great suggestion.
 

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80’ 450 SL
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16 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
I just hope these Febi/Bilstein replacement parts are high quality. I assumed Bilstein is still a reliable brand.
 

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Outstanding Contributor , Bob's Your Uncle!
-----'83 280 SL----- 5 speed....The PIG
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29,221 Posts
They are called LOCK NUTS for a reason.

Don't fret, everyone....but they are one use only.
 

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1984 380 SL
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24 Posts
Hi, here in the uk most of our steering/ suspension joints have nyloc nuts (locknuts) never had an issue with anything
 

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w108 & w107
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Two years ago I replaced the drivers side tie rod on my '83, the replacement came with lock nuts and no instructions. I made it RFT and never looked back. Now that I've read some of the comments I think I'll take a peek next time I have her on the lift and put one of those alignment marks on the nut. Great suggestion.
Haha - RFT. I'll need to add that setting to the end of my torque wrench...
 

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Outstanding Contributor , Bob's Your Uncle!
-----'83 280 SL----- 5 speed....The PIG
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2005 SRT Crossfire. 1973 Euro 450SL
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76 Posts
The FAA says two uses on a Ny-Loc nut, there are a lot of them on aircraft and the FAA is VERY safety conscious!
 

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'80 450SLC Afro RHD Ikonengold
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...and the FAA is VERY safety conscious!
Errr.... Are you sure to the Max8? ;-)

...
I do like the suggestion of copper grease, and Loctite - maybe blue Loctite because red would require heat to disassemble. What do you guys think - red or blue????
As much as the big nut will be removable without much heat in case of 263, in hindsight i would agree that the blue 242 is a better choice. Probably pink 222 as well as there woild be ample warning that something is loose there before the nut fall off.
If I remember correctly, the nuts were not standard but 1st° finer pitch which makes them harder to come off by themselves anyway
 

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1983 380 SL
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2,494 Posts
The FAA says two uses on a Ny-Loc nut, there are a lot of them on aircraft and the FAA is VERY safety conscious!
I am currently building an RV-12 is (Vans Aircraft) and I have encountered many lock nuts but none of them were nylon. I wonder if Vans is going overboard with the specs?
 
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