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Discussion Starter #61
I failed, but not because I didn’t pass, because I didn’t try. I was driving there when I realized the car was running like crap (not that it wouldn’t have passed emissions, but not running right wasn’t smart). More importantly, the turn signals weren’t working (would fail) and neither was the tach or the temp gauge. I drove it home. Jason @rwd4evr met me at my house and discovered that neither cylinders 1 or 4 were firing. That would explain the poor running. I got the blinkers, tach and temp gauge working again by twisting the fuses.

Wednesday is a 12-8 pm day at DMV and usually a mess. I will see if I can pull the spark plugs on cylinders 1 and 4 and maybe replace those leads and plugs before making another go at the DMV.

The saga continues.
 

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Discussion Starter #62
No noticeable change with new plugs in cylinders 1 and 4. The injector line at cylinder 1 is quite rusty. I can’t recall if I’ve cracked the injector lines open before to see if there’s flow to the injectors. I am confident that I did not pull the injectors to see if they would spray. I think that I may have some injectors that don’t flow. If cylinders 1 and 4 aren’t firing, and I have current down the leads as noticed by the timing light, and the plugs are new, AND I’m not getting stinky or Smokey exhaust, I think that I’ve most likely not got fuel in cylinders 1 and 4. I could be wrong.

I stayed up late for no good reason last night. It’s dark. It’s cold. I don’t feel like putting on thermals. I want to take a shower and go to bed. But it would be good to know that I’ve got some spare injectors and injector lines I could use for testing. Just need to walk out to the garage to know my plan for tomorrow. Maybe it’s time to bring that 380slc fuel distributor inside and get working on its rebuild anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #63 (Edited)
Last night I did put injector test lines on the fuel distributor and I have injectors from “varnished 380slc” and a 1985 190e that was recently scrapped. That’s 12 spare injectors, but there’s a good chance that those will all be clogged. I plan to test the ones in the motor too.
 

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Discussion Starter #64 (Edited)
Running smoothly now and no noticeable stumble, but still dieseling after shutoff when warm. Plugs are Bosch super no R in the name, but number 9 which is the hot end of the spectrum, hotter than anything I have seen used in one of these cars. So I will put in the four ngk bp6es that I have and order more.


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Discussion Starter #65
AC is confirmed aftermarket. I’ve never seen an idler pulley bracket like this. It’s crazy to think someone really added an evaporator into the dash on this car.
 

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Discussion Starter #66 (Edited)
I had the timing at TDC, and after looking at what I had to do to get my 1985 500se (no cat) to pass, (post 87 here: I found a Euro 500SE )
I wonder if the original timing spec of 5 BTDC would have been better. That’s where I was on the 500se to pass, but supposedly it’s spec is 15 BTDC at idle. That seems really far advanced to me. I need to really look up these specs, and figure out what I should have, and do a temporary setup for the one time emissions test. I failed today, but I think after replacing 4 more spark plugs, I appear to have developed a miss. Major fail on both emissions and right rear brake supposedly. I am going to check the brakes this weekend and wait for my 36 ngk bp6es to arrive from autohausaz. I found one used bp6es in the garage attic in piles of junk, but it could have been a bad plug for all I knew. So I will replace the whole passenger side bank when my new plugs arrive. The driver side bank is done. I did get one single pop one time I shut the car off, but otherwise there’s been no dieseling. I believe the Bosch w9dc plugs were the problem. There’s still one in cylinder 3, which I hope was the cause of the pop dieseling that one time I shut the car off today.





I also found the glass fuse in the radio slot was bad and got the radio working tonight. That was nice. I put a speaker in the passenger side and tried to swap the driver speaker grill onto the passenger side and learned tonight that there is a difference in the two sides. All I had in the attic for spares was a blue pair. So a blue speaker grill cover went on the tab dash. I had to split the screws and clips though because I didn’t have any handy. Each got one screw and one clip holding the speaker grills on.

Next week I expect to get the car to pass inspection and then start talking to DMV about what I’m going to need to pay for a taxes. I will have 90 days that the inspection report will be valid.
 

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Discussion Starter #67
Today I freed up the right rear caliper which was dragging and the Pistons were not moving freely. I believe that the issue there is fixed. I also grabbed an alternator from Jasons shop tonight. With the alternator replaced all I will need is the spark plugs that arrive Tuesday.


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Discussion Starter #68
Alternator installed and now charging at 13.65-13.95 volts now.

Now just waiting on spark plugs.

Checked into the aftermarket wiring for the windows, and found the wire end behind the fuse box. I hooked it to the fused end of the window fuse on the lower line, second from front on the bottom, wire connected to the bottom of the bottom row. (Middle has power, and outside gets power through the fuses.) blew the red fuse. There’s evidence of rodents chewing the wire that goes to the passenger door. Hopefully the rodents only chewed the aftermarket wiring. Vacuumed up the nuts in the console before putting it all back together and fixing the ashtray lighter two pin plug. Verified the lighter works and I could start up something to smoke if I would want. Anyway, the windows are only going to operate with a jump box for a while.

Oh. The blower motor fan has come completely back to life. 13.95 volts would help, but it actually came back before I fixed the alternator. I forgot that the blower never shuts off. It’s always spins a little, even when “off” circulating a little air. Before it was only running on high and the next step down. Now it has five speeds. I imagine soaking in PB Blaster vapors didn’t hurt to free it all up.

The timing is now set around 8-10 BTDC. It’s not smoking tires as I’ve got the idle screw cranked down about 2.5-3 turns. Like the last time I messed with the mixture and timing, I had a bit of trouble starting the car today, like it would get some cold start squirt and then not have enough fuel. I wonder if the WUR isn’t as active as it should be.

Oh, the hard top leaks like crazy. I believe it’s leaking at the top of both the front and rear windshields. The rear parcel shelf was soaked after the rain (top of hardtop rear glass). There were puddles in the center console too (front leak).

Anyway, it’s real close to getting the inspection done and then store this one in the barn while taking care of some other projects.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
Spark plugs should arrive today, probably late afternoon when it's too late to head into inspection. I promised myself I'd look up the timing spec for the 450sl rather than just relying on the post 52 from @RaceDiagnostics . I got the adobe flash player working on the Oracle Virtual Box that I run for the EPC and found that for 77-79 it points to 15-501.pdf, which helps me to understand the sticker.
https://www.benzworld.org/cdn-cgi/i...ments/20190913191923-6ab6b496-me-jpg.2670342/

I see that TDC+/-3 WITH VACUUM and 30 degrees at 3000 RPM without vacuum. It also says to get 8-12 degrees vacuum retard at idle and 8-12 degrees of vacuum advance at 3000 rpm. The installation value without vacuum is either 8 or 10 BTDC.

It sounds like I should shoot for 30 degrees of advance at 3000 rpm with no vacuum lines connected to the distributor. Then hope that I end up around 10 degrees advanced with no vacuum at idle. If the idle is high without vacuum, I can hope for 1500 RPM idle and hope to see around 14-22 BTDC with no vacuum. Then adding vacuum, I should hope that the idle drops to 750 and the timing comes down to about TDC. Finally check the timing one more time to see if I get about 40 BTDC with 8-12 degrees of advance with the vacuum lines attached.

I will admit that I don't know which is vacuum advance, and which is vacuum retard.

I realize that I'm making this all sound a lot more complicated than it has to be. I'm just hoping to really understand this all. My 1978 450slc 5.0 will spin tires when I hit the gas pedal, and I expect this car to feel similar. I understand it may be only 90% of the power of my 5.0 SLC, but that should still feel powerful. It's not there yet.
 

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Outstanding Contributor
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Discussion Starter #70
I haven’t touched the car while waiting for my order of 36 ngk bp6es to arrive from AutohausAZ. It was supposed to arrive Tuesday, 5 days ago. The package appeared to be one day behind before USPS started calling the package “arriving late”. I was really in need of 3 ngk bp6es (or similar) plugs because I still have one W9DC Bosch plug and two unknown auto lite plugs in on the passenger bank along with one used BP6ES I found in the garage. The W9DC are clearly too hot as they seem to be what caused the dieseling after shutting off the car. I guess they essentially turn into glow plugs, and I guess the euro higher compression along with probably some lower octane fuel (old?, regular maybe, perhaps I ran regular to get the car running initially?) was enough to cause the dieseling. I have noticed at least one “pop” after shutting the car off since there’s only been one W9DC in there. Anyway, I’m glad to Report, that while cleaning my garage a bit, I found a pile of used bp6es plugs. So I can clean and gap four of them and finally take the car through inspection this coming week, whether the autohausaz shipment shows up or not.
 

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Anyway, I’m glad to Report, that while cleaning my garage a bit, I found a pile of used bp6es plugs.
You keep cleaning.....you'll probably turn up another car, in there. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #72
Finally got it to pass, but not on the first try. I had it leaned out ~3/8 a turn, and timing with vacuum at TDC. Failed with:
  • about 1.9% CO (less than half the 4% state limit but higher than spec by a good bit I believe) and
  • about 550 PPM HC with a limit of 400 PPM.

It was like 4:20 and I drove around into the parking lot and figured I will try to back off the timing a bit. 5 atdc with vacuum is where it ended up (measured later). I tried to lean it a hair more, but didn’t feel it was the right thing to do. The car was already running at at least 90 on this ~37 degree F day. I did unscrew the idle a bit to bring up the RPMs. Maybe I needed to lean it more because when I got lucky and they let me in at like 4:31 (4:30 closing) they asked me to rev it when it was clear the HC were again exceeding 400. They dropped a bit below 400 and it passed, and DMV closed.

I’ve cut it close before, but never this close on either time or emissions measurement. After passing, I enriched it 1/4 turn and reset the timing to TDC at idle. I checked without vacuum retard and it was 15 BTDC at 1500 rpm (hugh idle). I tested with the idle screw to bring down the rpm to a normal idle, and it’s 10 BTDC without vacuum. Then back to TDC with vacuum and some mild idle screw adjustment.




Now to get the title in my name within 90 days of the first test. I was bummed out that they did it as a “retest”, but it passed. I can store it for much longer if I get the title in time. Fedex of the title goes out tomorrow after I confirm DMV won’t rape me on the taxes.
 
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