83 380 SL, 86 300E 5-Speed, 87 300 TD, 90 300D 2.5, 99 E320 Wagon, 09 GL550
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10 Posts
I've decided (albeit sadly) to part with my 350SE. Once this is sold, I'll probably be in the market for a 116 with a manual transmission. I wanted to give my fellow MBCA members a crack at it (since I figure one of you would be more likely to use it for parts or fix it). I've owned it for over 4 years, since February 2006. I've done the following to it since then:
Replace gaskets around the L head and a valve, since a valve bent on that side. Original honing marks could be seen on the cylinder walls.
Master Cylinder
Metal Lines and T for rear brake circuit
Rear Calipers and Flex lines
New front rotors and re-packed front bearings
New Injectors
New Accumulator
New Fuel Filter
New Rocker arms all around (however this led to a problem...when I did this, I made a mistake with the pad on top of the valve, which lead to the rocker arm falling out of position...being young and dumb like I was at the time, I put a random one of the old rocker arms back on...which now means the lobe on the cam for the exhaust valve on cylinder 4 is worn down and clicking)
New Timing Chain guides and tensioner slide
New Timing Chain Tensioner
Chain was on the newer side of spec
Re-cored (with solid Copper core) radiator, spot-welded fitting on oil cooler to stop a leak
Harder to start warm, needs new fuel distributor.
I put the combination switch from my wrecked 280SEL on there to fix a problem with the windshield wipers. Problem: when the car was converted to power windows, they vampire tapped a wire in this switch for them, the power windows are now non-functional...this also is somehow causing a short in the circuit with the horn and wipers, it immediately pops the fuse.
The 15" Bundts pictured are not included, but I'll have some rims and tires on there that will be good enough for it to roll on a transporter(could be convinced to work out something for better tires on 14" rims for an additional cost), and the US lights seen in ...350USL.jpg will be what are on the car when it is sold. The passenger side mirror, being a wide-angle (and the only one like it I've seen for a 116 in the US) will not be included either.
I'm asking $500 OBO. I need to move this in about 4 weeks.
Replace gaskets around the L head and a valve, since a valve bent on that side. Original honing marks could be seen on the cylinder walls.
Master Cylinder
Metal Lines and T for rear brake circuit
Rear Calipers and Flex lines
New front rotors and re-packed front bearings
New Injectors
New Accumulator
New Fuel Filter
New Rocker arms all around (however this led to a problem...when I did this, I made a mistake with the pad on top of the valve, which lead to the rocker arm falling out of position...being young and dumb like I was at the time, I put a random one of the old rocker arms back on...which now means the lobe on the cam for the exhaust valve on cylinder 4 is worn down and clicking)
New Timing Chain guides and tensioner slide
New Timing Chain Tensioner
Chain was on the newer side of spec
Re-cored (with solid Copper core) radiator, spot-welded fitting on oil cooler to stop a leak
Harder to start warm, needs new fuel distributor.
I put the combination switch from my wrecked 280SEL on there to fix a problem with the windshield wipers. Problem: when the car was converted to power windows, they vampire tapped a wire in this switch for them, the power windows are now non-functional...this also is somehow causing a short in the circuit with the horn and wipers, it immediately pops the fuse.
The 15" Bundts pictured are not included, but I'll have some rims and tires on there that will be good enough for it to roll on a transporter(could be convinced to work out something for better tires on 14" rims for an additional cost), and the US lights seen in ...350USL.jpg will be what are on the car when it is sold. The passenger side mirror, being a wide-angle (and the only one like it I've seen for a 116 in the US) will not be included either.
I'm asking $500 OBO. I need to move this in about 4 weeks.
Wish I were near you. Hard warm start would either be a bad accumulator, or thermo-time switch.
