[RobbyH]

Hey everyone,

I was being proactive and replaced the tumbler on 75 450sl (type 2 based off of the manual 46-640) and was able to remove it and replace it with one from the dealer. Went great, until I tried to turn the key back over from the 0 to 1 position and it did not move. I removed the ignition switch off of the back to make sure that was not "sticking" somehow, but now I cannot remove the new tumbler because it is stuck in the 0 position. Am I going to have to get my grinder out and destroy the column lock?

Thanks for any insight, I was trying to be proactive and replace this before this happened, but maybe the problem was the steering column lock the whole time?

 

[rowdie]

What was the problem to begin with?

How did you install the new one if it was not in the same position as removal?

Which tumbler did you buy? Key matched or not. I thought they were NLA.

 

[RobbyH]

I use to have to wiggle the key to get it to start, and it would only start if I backed the key out one tooth. I replaced it with an identical tumbler, however, different key set as Mercedes was no longer able to match the tumbler to the VIN. Prior to inserting the tumbler the key did turn to engage.

 

[MBGraham]

I once dodged a bullet in a somewhat similar situation on my 85 300D. I tried many times to turn the key. I sprayed in Teflon lube. Tried again without luck. Then, next day, I think it was, the key turned!

Did you re-install in position 1 using same pin as you used for removal?
Can you now remove the key?
Is it possible move the shroud around the lock cylinder a little?

Have you tried some lube and jiggling or turning the steering wheel while you try and turn key? Maybe try to move the shroud a little? If key is removable, try pushing it and out a few times to "wear" it in?

Not much help, I know. Kind of frustrating problem.

 

[RobbyH]

The key is able to be removed, doesnt seem to make much of a difference. The steering wheel is now in the locked position as I was moving it around hoping that would do something. I am replacing the dash and center console next week so I will probably go ahead and remove those over the next day or two to get a better look and be able to manipulate things better. Did not try spraying anything in there for fear of "gumming" it up.

As for the pin you are referring to, this style just has the detent and a groove. Looked impossible to install it incorrectly and it had to be in position 1 otherwise the detent would not have allowed it be installed.

 

[rowdie]

If you are removing the dash and center console it will not be difficult to grind the pin off the lock assembly. You can then remove the entire assembly.

 

[MBGraham]

The key is able to be removed, doesnt seem to make much of a difference. The steering wheel is now in the locked position as I was moving it around hoping that would do something. I am replacing the dash and center console next week so I will probably go ahead and remove those over the next day or two to get a better look and be able to manipulate things better. Did not try spraying anything in there for fear of "gumming" it up.

As for the pin you are referring to, this style just has the detent and a groove. Looked impossible to install it incorrectly and it had to be in position 1 otherwise the detent would not have allowed it be installed.

Ok, I had a look at 2nd version and now see the difference.

A Teflon or graphite spray lube won't gum anything up. Locksmiths do this on sticky locks. Even WD-40 might work in getting it freed up.

I read about some who used a vibrator to shake the cylinder. Might work? Now that wheel is in locked position you likely need to move wheel a bit to make sure there it is not preventing movement when you try to turn the key.

Grinding is no doubt the sure fire brute force way to overcome the problem! Good luck with it.

 

[RobbyH]

Okay so I now have the steering lock assembly in my lap. With pin pushed in I am still unable to turn the key. Is there something I did wrong installing the tumbler? If I grind out my tumbler and put it in a new lock assembly will the same thing happen or are we pretty sure the steering lock assembly is just trashed?

 

[RobbyH]

So from the dealership I can only buy a workshop "type B" tumbler and a workshop "type C" steering lock. Any recommendations... Type C being the most common with the screw on metal cover. Kind of annoyed because the tumbler they sent me was defective and fit my type B steering lock, but because it was defective we had to destroy it to remove it nearly. Do I try to find a junkyard part or just realize my car will need a screwdriver to start it from now on...

 

[rowdie]

I don't know what they mean by those letters. There are four steering locks.
1. Early with chrome pull off cap.
2. Through late 70's. Black pull off cap.
3. Late 70's through 1985. Black screw on cap.
4. '86-'89. Black screw on cap.

The tumbler are different for each one. The tumblers don't interchange.

To my knowledge the only lock and tumbler, that work together, still available is the '86-'89 model.

 

[RobbyH]

I don't know what they mean by those letters. There are four steering locks.
1. Early with chrome pull off cap.
2. Through late 70's. Black pull off cap.
3. Late 70's through 1985. Black screw on cap.
4. '86-'89. Black screw on cap.

The tumbler are different for each one. The tumblers don't interchange.

To my knowledge the only lock and tumbler, that work together, still available is the '86-'89 model.

Sorry, I had number 2 (B) and I believe they gave me number 3. Will the 86-89 fit my 75 450?

 

[RobbyH]

I have a tumbler for the metal screw cap style but it is slightly larger diameter?

 

[rowdie]

The '86-'89 tumbler is a larger diameter than the other screw on cap model. This is the lock assembly. https://www.oediscountparts.com/par...rcedes-Benz&action=oePartSearch&siteid=215242 T comes with the switch.

It will fit yours. Not sure if you have to use your switch.