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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello, everyone. I'm new to these forums, and I just picked up a project 1969 /8 220 with the intention of converting it to electric. The body and interior are in nice shape, and all of the bits are there. The original owner took it off of the road because of engine issues, and I can see that the camshaft is seized and the timing gear sheared off the bolt which holds it on.

Since I do not need the engine, I will be parting it out. I have never worked on one of these, so it's neat to see the great construction and attention to detail.

I'm trying to identify what is worth preserving from the engine compartment. I have not found much on eBay or elsewhere to help me price the parts.

It looks like I have two solex carburetors, and there was an Ignition123 distributor that the owner put in at some point to try to resolve the engine issues. Everything is there and in good shape aside from the camshaft. I still need to remove the head to inspect the guts and see if there is anything people might want there. I suspect there may be some bent valves...

Can you all point me in the right direction for possibly pricing and selling some of these parts? I'm excited to begin my conversion, and I think this is a beautiful little car. It will make a fun driver once I finish the work.

Thanks for your help!

Edit: Corrected vehicle model.
 

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'72 250C, '74 280C, '85 500SEL, '81 300CD.
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I admire your enthusiasm and willingness for innovation but I believe you picked the wrong chassis for your project. The W115 chassis is HEAVY, I'm talking about 3200 lbs. of heavy! The fact of it being of uni-body construction limits you in regards of lightening the body as most of the sheet metal is in fact structural .

Still it would be a fun project and I'll be following your project with interest.

Not a whole lot of the M115 engine is desirable. If it is a manual transmission then there is a market for the pedal assembly, bell housing, flywheel and transmission. You might get a few bucks for the 123 Ignition assembly but other than that there isn't much. The twin Solex carbs are a crap shoot because they can be easily mangled by an over-zealous novice. Since the car isn't running you have no idea of their condition.

If the radiator is in good shape it is worth $100-$200 to someone who needs it (hint, hint), the starter $10-$20 as a core, if, and that is a BIG if, the head is in good shape (never been resurfaced, not warped, valves not bent, no loose seats-guides,cracks, etc.) MAYBE $150 to someone. The alternator mounting bracket and adjuster $20. Cast aluminum upper oil pan $20-$75. Can't really think of much else.

To clarify, the car you have is a 220 W115 (sometimes called a "Stroke eight" or "/8") and the engine is an M115, four cylinder petrol engine.

The 220S is a whole 'nother animal.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mercedes-Benz_W111

Were you speaking of actually doing this to a W111 220S then I'd imagine you could expect a horde of W111 fanatics to descend upon your doorstep with pitch forks and hot tar.:D
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I admire your enthusiasm and willingness for innovation but I believe you picked the wrong chassis for your project. The W115 chassis is HEAVY, I'm talking about 3200 lbs. of heavy! The fact of it being of uni-body construction limits you in regards of lightening the body as most of the sheet metal is in fact structural .

Still it would be a fun project and I'll be following your project with interest.

Not a whole lot of the M115 engine is desirable. If it is a manual transmission then there is a market for the pedal assembly, bell housing, flywheel and transmission. You might get a few bucks for the 123 Ignition assembly but other than that there isn't much. The twin Solex carbs are a crap shoot because they can be easily mangled by an over-zealous novice. Since the car isn't running you have no idea of their condition.

If the radiator is in good shape it is worth $100-$200 to someone who needs it (hint, hint), the starter $10-$20 as a core, if, and that is a BIG if, the head is in good shape (never been resurfaced, not warped, valves not bent, no loose seats-guides,cracks, etc.) MAYBE $150 to someone. The alternator mounting bracket and adjuster $20. Cast aluminum upper oil pan $20-$75. Can't really think of much else.

To clarify, the car you have is a 220 W115 (sometimes called a "Stroke eight" or "/8") and the engine is an M115, four cylinder petrol engine.

The 220S is a whole 'nother animal.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mercedes-Benz_W111

Were you speaking of actually doing this to a W111 220S then I'd imagine you could expect a horde of W111 fanatics to descend upon your doorstep with pitch forks and hot tar.:D
Ah, good to know, thank you for all of that detail and clarification. I'll keep what I can in good shape and see what sells. The car was $500, so I don't need to sell much to be in the positive. It is a manual transmission.

I will be using the motor out of a Nissan Leaf with a transmission. The leaf comes in around 3,500 lbs, so I'm not terribly worried about performance, especially since the transmission and rear end will have a slightly more advantageous combined ratio than the original Leaf gearbox. The continuous rating of the electric motor (107hp) is about the same as the peak rating of the original gas engine, as well, with much improved torque. During acceleration, I can very safely double that number to 214hp at the "crank" or even higher. It certainly won't be any slower, haha! I wanted to do something a bit nicer for this conversion, since the last one was an MG Midget and can be uncomfortable at times.

In defense of the carbs, I suspect the engine failed due to wear or an oiling issue, given the damage. They drove it from Arizona before they blew it up! I have no idea how well it drove, but it did drive... I'll post them on eBay and see what comes up :)
 

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One thing you might consider is changing the gear ratio in the differential. The W115's have a 3.92 ratio which might be a bit too low (high numerically) for your purpose.

The M115's are a high revving engine and first gear runs out at about 12 MPH. I can do a level ground second gear start with my M115 powered W114 with relative ease.

The extra torque you will have would make the existing first gear superfluous. Not a deal breaker but you might consider doing the change.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
One thing you might consider is changing the gear ratio in the differential. The W115's have a 3.92 ratio which might be a bit too low (high numerically) for your purpose.

The M115's are a high revving engine and first gear runs out at about 12 MPH. I can do a level ground second gear start with my M115 powered W114 with relative ease.

The extra torque you will have would make the existing first gear superfluous. Not a deal breaker but you might consider doing the change.
This is good to know. I would like to get close(ish) to the original final ratio in the Leaf, which is 8.193:1. I'd be happy with 9:1, just to be a bit zippier. The Leaf motor is good for just over 10k RPM. That should put me around 70 or 80mph top speed.

I'm looking at options for adapters, which will determine if I keep the original transmission or move to a different one. I plan to mate the motor to the transmission with an adapter, and then use a splined coupler to connect the shafts. It would be easiest to keep the original transmission, but I don't have high hopes of getting an adapter to fit it. It would be cheaper to use a different transmission with a ready made adapter than to get a machine shop to make one for me, in all likelihood.

I have an old Ford 3 speed from my Mustang that I'm contemplating using. That would get me an easier bolt pattern and I could stay in 1st gear until 40 or 50, and could shift into second for highway travel.
 

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97 SL500, 98 E320 Wagon, 2002 ML500 - former W108/W112/W114/W123/W124/W126/W140/W220
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My question is where are you going to place the batteries, and how are you planning on beefing up the suspension to deal with the added weight?

And don't even think of doing this to a W110/W111. The response from the community would be ugly, although the idea of an electric W110 is sort of cool...

Dan
 

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Discussion Starter #7
My question is where are you going to place the batteries, and how are you planning on beefing up the suspension to deal with the added weight?

And don't even think of doing this to a W110/W111. The response from the community would be ugly, although the idea of an electric W110 is sort of cool...

Dan
That remains to be determined, and it depends partially on the battery pack I end up getting. Depending on the total size and configuration, it will be under the hood, in the place of the original gas tank, or split between the two locations. I'm expecting the pack to come in between 300 and 400 lbs. I'm only looking to get 70-80 miles on a charge with a battery pack in the range of 20Kwh.

I will have to see how much everything weighs that comes out, and how it compares to what is going in.
 

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That makes sense. I hadn't thought of the fuel tank being removed...

Should be an interesting build. Be sure to keep us in the loop.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
This project has been an absolute bear, but I figured I'd let you all know that I've got it running. There's still a ton of work to do, but I've posted a video of it moving under it's own power here:

I accidentally had the transmission in first instead of second gear during the test, hence the high RPM howl... oops.

I'm still trying to figure out how to best change the pinion angle to handle some severe driveline vibrations above 50 - this is my first time working on an IRS vehicle.

I've also got everything mounted properly in the engine bay and the hood back on, and I'll upload a few pictures later for those who may be interested.
 

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Congratulations! I am super impressed. Too many times projects such as this stall and fail. It is great to see someone who has the gumption to stick with it and complete the task.

Regarding the drive line, how did you connect the transmission to the differential? Did you have a custom prop shaft made or did you adapt a yoke to the existing two piece prop shaft?
 

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Thanks! I did have a custom driveshaft made. One end uses the standard yoke for the Ford 3.03, while the other is a flange bolted to the pinion using an adapter I got from BenzForce. It replaces the flex disc with an aluminum plate drilled for a regular yoke. So it ends up being a standard driveshaft with 1310 u joints, nothing fancy.
 

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Hmm, that might be where you are getting the vibration. The /8 has two sub frames (front and rear) which are isolated from the body by rubber mounts. These flex at different rates depending on engine load and differential movement. The original set-up with the in-line rubber bearing mount helps to absorb the differences. The use of the flexible giubo's also absorb some of the vibration.

Essentially you have a three part device. The front sub-frame/power unit, the body/transmission mounting and the rear suspension all trying to move at different times/directions.

p.s., After watching your video I'd suggest putting some moth balls in the passenger compartment. This will help in deterring that vagrant looking fellow from appearing in the video.:LOL:
 

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Hmm, that might be where you are getting the vibration. The /8 has two sub frames (front and rear) which are isolated from the body by rubber mounts. These flex at different rates depending on engine load and differential movement. The original set-up with the in-line rubber bearing mount helps to absorb the differences. The use of the flexible giubo's also absorb some of the vibration.

Essentially you have a three part device. The front sub-frame/power unit, the body/transmission mounting and the rear suspension all trying to move at different times/directions.

p.s., After watching your video I'd suggest putting some moth balls in the passenger compartment. This will help in deterring that vagrant looking fellow from appearing in the video.:LOL:
I've been trying to deal with that guy for a while. I doubt that mothballs will help at this point!

The vibration is a bit intense, more than I would expect the original drive shaft to have accounted for. That's why I was leaning towards the pinion angle. The transmission is raised about as high as I can get it without the yoke hitting the floor pan, but it's still angled down a few degrees. I suspect that dropping the pinion a bit to compensate might deal with the vibration. Fitting the motor under the hood was a bit of a feat.
 

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1967 250 SL, 1965 300SE lang
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Congratulations! This is impressive work.
 

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All I can say is I see how you did this but can't see why. Same for putting air bags under one of these things.

They are fairly well balanced cars and handle well enough. I guess none of this matters all that much now because they're kind of like the old chevys of the MB car world. Cheap, no one really cares about them anymore and you can find them as rusted out hulks just about anywhere. Stuff that's not worth saving is usually first to get all sorts of modifications.
 

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Meh, the W115 220's were always the "Chevys" of the M-B world. They were the entry level model and had the least options of the entire M-B line. I drove one for years, my wife had one and both my sons had them as their first cars. Nothing really remarkable or collectible about them. It's hard to justify putting the dollars into them to keep them in tip-top shape. In my opinion the M115 with a manual transmission was a good unit but trying to find one in good enough shape to rebuild has become almost impossible.

I think it is great you are making a new life for an old car.
 

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I have several of them ( 280C, 250C, 250CE, 280 sedan ) in both sedan and coupes. Even the more valuable coupes aren't worth enough to spend much on them.
 

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I have several of them ( 280C, 250C, 250CE, 280 sedan ) in both sedan and coupes. Even the more valuable coupes aren't worth enough to spend much on them.
I think the coupes will see a bump in value at some point. They are nice cars and under-valued in my opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
All I can say is I see how you did this but can't see why. Same for putting air bags under one of these things.

They are fairly well balanced cars and handle well enough. I guess none of this matters all that much now because they're kind of like the old chevys of the MB car world. Cheap, no one really cares about them anymore and you can find them as rusted out hulks just about anywhere. Stuff that's not worth saving is usually first to get all sorts of modifications.
Making it useful again is better than scrapping it in my mind. It's a neat car with great design elements, but ultimately it's worthless. I'd rather make something unique and useful! If you don't like it, that's fine. I resell a lot of projects that are actually worth having and are too good to do this to. This is not one of them :)

For what it's worth, I was planning on fixing up the engine originally and driving it, but when I saw the results of the seized camshaft, it was obviously not worth that effort, let alone the cost.
 

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I wonder how long it will be till we see an electric w126?
 
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