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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys, I wanted to share my problem with you hoping to get some answers, and here it is, in my best English :p

When I start my car and it's cold outside (below 2° C) it won't start for some time, it does try to start but it's like the "spark" to start the car doesn't come. After trying for like 2 - 5 minutes it starts but runs the rpm around 300 - 600 and dies after approximately 10 secs. if I so much as touch the gas pedal while it's running on low rpm it will die instantly and after starting the car 3 - 4 times with the low rpm it suddenly goes to around 1000 rpm and I can drive but for the first minute after I start it runs badly, f.x. if I stop at a red light and keep it in D it will die but if I put it in N it will run OK.

This month I've taken my car 3 times to the repair shop and it has cost me around 1000$ and they STILL have not found the problem.. when they think they've found the problem the car runs smoothly for 2-3 days then goes back to the original state. The repair shop is not ripping me off since they're one of the best MB shops here in Iceland and are not known for that kind of thing.

what they've done is switch the entire spark plug system, some heat sensor in the engine and some relay that prevents the car to go random RPMS while stop, not sure what it's called in English since it's not my first language :p

If you guys have the solution or think you might have it PLEASE share it since I'm running really low on cash right now ^^,
 

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Sounds like it could be your cold start valve. What engine do you have?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
2.0L Petrol engine, I'm assuming it's the CSV as well, since I've tried everything. Where should I buy it since my local dealership sells it at ONLY 550$ :mad: (Iceland)
 

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csv or ovp
 

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Start by checking the residual fuel pressure in the main line while the car is cold with ignition off. You may want to leave the measuring gauge on the main line or preferably in the fuel distributor test inlet over night then check in the morning.
Next check the pressure with ignition on and watch if it builds up to spec pressure. If it does, check the EHA for leaks and make sure that the throttle plate is not sticking. You may have to clean that area all the way down to the throttle position sensor with some car cleaner. Check if fuel is getting to teh cold start valve and out off it as well.
If all looks good, check for vacuum leaks due to deteriorated ICV rubber hoses and other rubber stuff.
If all of the above is fine then check your ignitions system. Start with the distributor and make sure that the upper housing isn't cracked or that moisture is getting inside. Next check the EZL and main coil for proper operations.
If none of the above work, call an exorcist!
 

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Is the cold start valve NLA?

Sent an inquiry to my parts guy, he gave me a 104 p/n item instead. Apparently it's been superseded? $350+ for the replacement item! :eek:

Just to confirm, is 0000714737 the correct CSV (for my '89 2.6 anyway)? Does this p/n change from the W201 range?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hey guys, Sorry for the late replay..

I sold my car and totally forgot I asked about this problem.

The problem was the OVP. The repair shop I bought the OVP from, replaced it 2 times for me and the problem always started around 1-2 weeks after replacement. So I bought a new one from the manufacturer and BINGO. Worked like a charm ever since.

Thank you all for the replays :)
 
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