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1996 E320, 2005 Toyota Camry
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1,810 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I own an '85 190D (71K) and a '77 300D (116K), neither of which will cool the car down when it's 95 degrees and up, so I want to buy a MB which will do that! So, I ask if a '98 S320 (excellent condition, 150K) will keep the interior COOL better (maybe a lot better) than either of my current MBs? Opinions, please; I will appreciate straight talk. Thank you.
Beverly
P.S. I don't really want to be forced into driving a Camry!
 

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1992 600SEL and 1990 ford taurus GL
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270 Posts
my 600SEL is pretty good at keeping the car cool, but the leather seats really do add a TON of heat to the car. they never really cool down even after the rest of the car is cool. what i did notice though, is if your windows are tinted heavily, the car stays much cooler. i bet your older Mercedes don't have tinted windows at all. so does the S320 have tinted windows? but other than that the A/C is pretty strong. especially if you have two A/Cs like on the V12 models! :D but my V12 runs scary hot when it's like 100 degrees out. it hasn't over heated yet though
 

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Premium Member
M120, M119, W126*2 + Silver Avantgarde wagon
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4,742 Posts
My 99 CL500 is cool, no matter what. I have heard the AC systems are a little more reliable on the later cars 97 - 99.

When you find a car you are looking to buy, have thedealer/seller insert a thermometer in the vents to see what temp it is blowing- and have them send you a picture of that if you are long distance or show it to you if you are local.

Good luck - and I'd avoid black leather seats if heat is an issue...

Rich
 

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1997 S500V, 1999 S500 grand edition, 2006 s65 amg
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7,356 Posts
here is what i do.

Step 1
Tint windows to about 5% if you have a hard time seeing out the window go for 35%
Step 2
pop up your sunroof
Step 3
lower the windows about an 1"
Step 4
buy one of those sun screen things
Step 5
if that still isn't enough install curtains
Step 6
there is a button in the car you push and the A/C stays on for 25-30mintues after you turn off the car.

or you can turn the car on turn the a/c on and wait outside while the engine warms up and the a/c cools

try to go for a tan or gray interior. black leather heats up and makes you sweat like no tomorrow. Also look for a light color car.
 

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Premium Member
M120, M119, W126*2 + Silver Avantgarde wagon
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4,742 Posts
here is what i do.

Step 1
Tint windows to about 5% if you have a hard time seeing out the window go for 35%
Step 2
pop up your sunroof
Step 3
lower the windows about an 1"
Step 4
buy one of those sun screen things
Step 5
if that still isn't enough install curtains
Step 6
there is a button in the car you push and the A/C stays on for 25-30mintues after you turn off the car.

or you can turn the car on turn the a/c on and wait outside while the engine warms up and the a/c cools

try to go for a tan or gray interior. black leather heats up and makes you sweat like no tomorrow. Also look for a light color car.
Yes, I forgot about the tint - good point NhzR - it is very much needed, especially the huge back window on my coupe. :thumbsup:
 

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111/123/124/126/140/201
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925 Posts
I live in HK and tint is not legal. I have no cooling problem with my S600/CL600, both 98.
even get stuck in traffic and the temp said outside temp is over 100 degree
 

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Premium Member
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867 Posts
here is what i do.

Step 6
there is a button in the car you push and the A/C stays on for 25-30mintues after you turn off the car.
Isn't that just the heater? The compressor is driven off the engine, so no A/C with the engine off.

To the OP: None of my cars have working A/C, but from the design the system has heaps of cooling capacity. The A/C is expensive and complex to overhaul (search for the many threads on the subject) so unless you are heavily into DIY make sure you have the A/C thoroughly tested before buying or beat the price down to get it repaired.

I will be rebuilding my A/C before summer.
 

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1997 S500V, 1999 S500 grand edition, 2006 s65 amg
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7,356 Posts
Isn't that just the heater? The compressor is driven off the engine, so no A/C with the engine off.

To the OP: None of my cars have working A/C, but from the design the system has heaps of cooling capacity. The A/C is expensive and complex to overhaul (search for the many threads on the subject) so unless you are heavily into DIY make sure you have the A/C thoroughly tested before buying or beat the price down to get it repaired.

I will be rebuilding my A/C before summer.
its just the blower. but if you were using your a/c it should stay cold. you can choose cold or hot.
 

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its just the blower. but if you were using your a/c it should stay cold. you can choose cold or hot.
I was under the impression the coolant was kept circulating through the heater core from the engine to keep the car warm for up to 30 minutes when the 'rest' button was pressed. But the evaporator will warm up quickly once the engine is off. You will only get maybe a couple of minutes of cool air, if that.
 

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2004 Toyota Avalon XLS
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1,269 Posts
My 96 S320 a/c put up with the Arizona heat just fine, as far as I can recall. The windows on the car were tinted, but I think it was just the factory tint.
 

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W140 Moderator
"CHRIS" Merc 92 600SEL / Sold > 93 600SE / 93 S500 / 89 560SEL / 413CDI / B180-CDI /A170-CDI
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7,639 Posts
If all the components of the air conditioning perfectly function and not leaking ,the 140 will cool the car realy good,in summer here with 40 degrees my wife tells me to turn the ac of as she is freezzing so it must be good .Keep in mind that the engine of a w140 runs very very hot in summer with the ac on ,up & around 100/105c less when you drive on freeways or autobahn .When you purchase a W140 make sure the evaporator is not leaking or it has already been replaced otherwise you be looking at 3-5000 dollar repair depending were you are at if it does leak , unless you have guts inaf to replace it yourself but it aint a pretty job to start with . :thumbsup:

BTW: Try not to get a T. Camry even that it looks like you aready got one ,i dont give way to them ,i dont let them in ,if a camry is in front of me dodling around at 40km/h in a 60km/h zone like they always do ,i will blast past it scaring the crap out of the driver for sure (wake up call),worst car on the planet in my books ,there hasnt been a single camry in front of me that drives descently ,always to slow / all over the road or no blinkers etc etc etc & etc .I would love to know how many other drivers feel the same about camrys like i do .
No offence to owner's here that own one but boy those camry's go on my nerves at 1st sigt,i hate them with a passion,i'm sure that a Mercedes owner that does drive a camry as just a city go to work sort of car does drive it properly,i just never seen one yet .
 

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Premium Member
M120, M119, W126*2 + Silver Avantgarde wagon
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4,742 Posts
If all the components of the air conditioning perfectly function and not leaking ,the 140 will cool the car realy good,in summer here with 40 degrees my wife tells me to turn the ac of as she is freezzing so it must be good .Keep in mind that the engine of a w140 runs very very hot in summer with the ac on ,up & around 100/105c less when you drive on freeways or autobahn .When you purchase a W140 make sure the evaporator is not leaking or it has already been replaced otherwise you be looking at 3-5000 dollar repair depending were you are at if it does leak , unless you have guts inaf to replace it yourself but it aint a pretty job to start with . :thumbsup:

BTW: Try not to get a T. Camry even that it looks like you aready got one ,i dont give way to them ,i dont let them in ,if a camry is in front of me dodling around at 40km/h in a 60km/h zone like they always do ,i will blast past it scaring the crap out of the driver for sure (wake up call),worst car on the planet in my books ,there hasnt been a single camry in front of me that drives descently ,always to slow / all over the road or no blinkers etc etc etc & etc .I would love to know how many other drivers feel the same about camrys like i do .
No offence to owner's here that own one but boy those camry's go on my nerves at 1st sigt,i hate them with a passion,i'm sure that a Mercedes owner that does drive a camry as just a city go to work sort of car does drive it properly,i just never seen one yet .
Yes, try not to get a Camry. The plastics in it are just offensive. Yuk!
 

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W140 Moderator
"CHRIS" Merc 92 600SEL / Sold > 93 600SE / 93 S500 / 89 560SEL / 413CDI / B180-CDI /A170-CDI
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7,639 Posts
. . . Camry . . . didn't mean to strike a raw nerve, guys.
Beverly
Dont wory about it Beverly ,it's ok ,i just blasted about 10 this morning (saturday traffic ) , you cant go wrong with a well maintained W140 . :thumbsup:
 

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'84 300DT, '97 S320
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682 Posts
Hi, Beverly. We have a '97 S320. It has factory tint. The A/C works well. I just replaced the compressor at the start of the summer because the system was leaking somewhere ever since we bought it in early 2010, and I put in some leak-detect dye (yellow). Saw the dye only behind the pulley of the compressor, so a seal was going bad.

It doesn't blow cold right away, but neither does our '95 Villager (or any car), but it seems to get colder quicker than the MB by about 1 minute. I replaced a lot of the Villager's A/C parts a couple of summers ago, and when placing a thermometer in any vent (it has a rear A/C unit), if it's 85-90F outside, it easily cools down to 40F. I haven't checked the MB. The vent air should be 40-60F (preferably 40-50F). Our MB has just the front unit, and all these cars will have a vent under the center armrest that sends cold air to the rear seats. BTW, heated air never goes through that vent.

Summer of 2010 I drove from Georgia to Oklahoma in July and it got to 95+ that day, and the A/C worked great, and on the drive back a week later - an 11-hour drive each way, although I didn't need the A/C on the whole time. And that was with a slightly-leaking compressor. About a month later I had to re-add a can of refrigerant (R-134a).

BTW, the A/C on our '84 300D (turbo) works well also, but I did replace the compressor and drier a few years ago. Maybe your 190 and 300 just need the A/C worked on.
 

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1992 600SEL and 1990 ford taurus GL
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I live in HK and tint is not legal. I have no cooling problem with my S600/CL600, both 98.
even get stuck in traffic and the temp said outside temp is over 100 degree
how hot does your V12 run when your sitting there on a 100 degree day with both A/Cs on? mine runs scary hot, about 2-3 millimeters away from the very last white line which is 120 Celsius. mine hasn't over heated yet, but i don't know how much hotter it can get before ill start getting steam from under the hood. I'm pretty sure that everything works well on my cooling system, it just runs that hot from what i have read.
 

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'84 300DT, '97 S320
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Hey, bomb - bottom line is :

At 50/50 % mix of coolant to distilled water, you shouldn't boil until 130C - with NEW coolant.

I looked at Prestone's web site, and they generate a table for different cars, although I was just looking for the generic table. Prestone's generated table will list capacity also.

Anyway, if your 600 is getting to 120C, that's 248F, and boiling point of water is 100C/212F. A 50/50 % mix would protect you to 130C/265F, and 70/30 to 136C/276F.

So, again, at 50/50 you shouldn't boil until 130C - with NEW coolant.
********************************************************

BTW, I first was figuring F by taking 100C, converting to 212F (which you can do in your head : double the C, minus 10% of C-doubled, then plus 32 - e.g., 100C*2 => 200, minus 20 => 180, then + 32 => 212 ...this incorporates that 9/5 thing), THEN, converting the 20C remaining to 68F, giving 212+68=280F, which is wrong. You don't ADD the F-value of 20C to 212F, but rather the "Difference" from 0C to 20C in F, which is 32F to 68F, only 36F. So, 212F + 36F = 248F. I know, doesn't sound right, but it is.
 

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1992 600SEL and 1990 ford taurus GL
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270 Posts
Hey, bomb - bottom line is :

At 50/50 % mix of coolant to distilled water, you shouldn't boil until 130C - with NEW coolant.

I looked at Prestone's web site, and they generate a table for different cars, although I was just looking for the generic table. Prestone's generated table will list capacity also.

Anyway, if your 600 is getting to 120C, that's 248F, and boiling point of water is 100C/212F. A 50/50 % mix would protect you to 130C/265F, and 70/30 to 136C/276F.

So, again, at 50/50 you shouldn't boil until 130C - with NEW coolant.
********************************************************

BTW, I first was figuring F by taking 100C, converting to 212F (which you can do in your head : double the C, minus 10% of C-doubled, then plus 32 - e.g., 100C*2 => 200, minus 20 => 180, then + 32 => 212 ...this incorporates that 9/5 thing), THEN, converting the 20C remaining to 68F, giving 212+68=280F, which is wrong. You don't ADD the F-value of 20C to 212F, but rather the "Difference" from 0C to 20C in F, which is 32F to 68F, only 36F. So, 212F + 36F = 248F. I know, doesn't sound right, but it is.
thanks for the info, that makes me feel much better. its just like, DAMN. that engine is HOT:eek:. i like it to stay in between 100C and 80C. i have a few things that i need to test out to see if it makes the engine run cooler, of which i think they will, but i still have to check.
 
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