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'76 1300L,HE351CW,H15P Winches,Konis,Hydraulics,All Gears,10mm Plungers,Aftercooler,Lots of Littles
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Discussion Starter #1
OK, I have read the threads about all the winches on here so please do not beat me for re-asking/posting.

I am trying to decide which way to go with a winch: hydraulic, PTO, or electric. I have had electric winches on trucks before, and used hydros and PTOs on other equipment so I have a good idea of the practical differences, but have never used any of them on a UNIMOG. I would like some advice from those who have come before me on this decision.

I have a 1300L, currently without PTO or Hydro. But I would add it.

I use the truck essentially as a truck. I will use the winch to unstick the truck on the farm, unstick other stuck stuff, and to pull the occasional log.

Clearly, hydro is the most controllable and it and PTOs are clearly higher duty than the electric (high load capable too). But as much as I WANT that, not sure I need it.

I would like some thoughts from the collective here about each, and if you have used all of them (or two of them), what you would want for a similar use truck.

Money is not really an object here (I mean no more than it always is, but I want to do this once and get it done.) I do not want to spend more than I have to; if a 8 ton Werner Hydro is right then that is what I will get, if a 16.5k super winch is all I need, all the better.

Questions, comments, snide remarks? I am all ears.

Cheers.

Charles
 

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Unimog Moderator
250GD Wolf
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Werner or Rotzler IMHO belong on a Unimog. I'm very happy with my 5t Werner, it will pull the truck across dry ground with all 4 locked and huge wheel chock's in front of the tires. I'm confident if I can find something to anchor to, I can pull myself out of a given situation. Also the 55meters of cable is nice to have.

I'd go for a mid-mount setup that will allow you to pull front or rear, so you only have to buy one winch.
 

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Unimog U1250
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I have gone with electric winches mainly because I will have a large battery bank and big alternator for the camper in any case, and secondly the price - I was able to get a two 7.5 ton winches for less than the price of one small 8 ton hydraulic winch. Now I can press on or retreat depending on how badly I want to go somewhere :)

I took the hydraulic system off my U1250 ( It's for sale if anyone wants it :) ) to save space and weight.

If you plan on using the winch for working - then I would go hydraulic or PTO, but if it only for recovery, then consider electric.
 

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1978 Case 406
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Charles, I have the 16.5 Superwinch on my 1300L. I have not used it for self recovery only because I haven't been stuck yet. Use it for pulling logs, trees and the occasional Jeep recovery. I have come close to stalling it while hooked to the immovable tree stump on a single line pull. I choose it because I was not willing to give up my overdrive to put in a PTO and adding hyd to big a PIA. Happy with the performance based on the cost comparison to the hyd.
Bob
 

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a couple round ones
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I have the MB Type A on my 416 and its a great winch!!!!! BUT I would much rather be able to feed from the front or rear like tkv000 said. It's a more versatile set up for a number of different applications.
I think anyone with a mog should stick with either hydraulic or Pto winch set up, we have all read the pros and cons of hydraulic/pto/electric, but the bottom line is you dont see any factory mogs with a electric winches.
You say '' But as much as I WANT that, not sure I need it.'' 90% of the time it might seem overkill, but the other 10% you will be happy that you did.

G Vavra
 

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1981 Case 406
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Yup, I agree with Gerald. You will too once you go PTO or hydraulic.

Rolf in Montreal
 

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'76 1300L,HE351CW,H15P Winches,Konis,Hydraulics,All Gears,10mm Plungers,Aftercooler,Lots of Littles
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Discussion Starter #7
OK, so all of that said: If I want a Werner where is a good place to look to source one? The usual suspects?

C.
 

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1983 U1200 (parted out), 1979 U1700L
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I have a pto system and a hydraulic system for sale if you are interested. Both are off a u1200 and either (or both) would fit on a 1300l.

Pm me if you want more info.

Oh and I have used a warn hydro and ramsey pto winches on a unimog. Hydro is great for control. Pto is way faster and way more powerful.
 

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Non MB 1975 Volvo C304, 1958 Kramer U540, 1959 unimog Westfalia 411
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In my experience the real drawback to PTO winch is having to be in cab to operate I have never had one that was rigged for remote op. Nothing pulls harder # for # Its nice to watch the cable spooling correctly or watch load. The Werner looks like it is meant for business but adds more nose weight on a unbalanced rig to begin with. For now I have a proven capable Warn 12V 15k# and it can be run front or rear via hitch receivers although it is pretty heavy to carry around. A PTO setup w/ autowind or level wind cant be beat and better yet if it does not protrude two feet from your bumper.
 

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a couple round ones
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Check out all our friendly Vendor and see what they can for you!!! Or throw an ad on the Exchange.
If you are going to go Hydro... bend there ear while you have them on the phone and see what they recommend/or have worked with.
They can probably get one in for you (PTO style) because I doubt they have them sitting on the shelf. But you might also try the German Unimog groups/Forums/classified,Fleabay, some one might be able to help you out.
If you do get see one in Europe, there are containers coming over that would probably have room for an itsy bitsy winch if you play your cards right.
G Vavra
 

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ex-moglet u1700 (ex U1300L)
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Hi

This is probably my usual stupid question but has anyone fitted or know of an electric winch thats been fitted mid chassis? Any reason why not, wether for front, rear or both ways pulling?

If I fitted a winch to my camper a mid mounted Rotzler would be lovely but what would that cost?! A front mounted anything would add to length and so shipping costs, and I don't have hydraulics. Longer term a Claas may be more sensible for that little space :)

Jason

:)
 

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I've done lots of winching and almost all of it has been as a tool to move something else. I can actually only remember a few times that I have used it for self recovery because I'm very careful to avoid getting in situations that might require that. I have moved other vehicles, moved machinery and equipment, loaded trailers, moved logs and buildings, and done it with direct pulls, around corner pulls and lifting. I believe in liberal use of snatch blocks and have never been in a hurry. Most of the winches I've used have been PTO and driven off the transmission or had multi speed gearboxes in the PTO unit. Mechanical winches are great, but you better check that there is a shear pin and it's correct and not replaced with a hard bolt because if you overload a PTO winch you can damage other critical driveline components and effectively kill your own vehicle. With PTO's once you are hooked up you are pulling and there is no way to modulate except by slipping the clutch. Line take up can be shocking to puller and pullee. Electric winches are great for lighter vehicles smaller than 416's and 1300's on up and can pull when the vehicle engine is off if the batteries are good. Electrics are the easiest to install and least expensive, considering that with PTO and hydraulic the winch itself is only half the system. Hydraulic is my favorite because, for my uses, it affords the most control and protects the rest of the vehicle driveline. I don't believe it gives up anything to a PTO winch in terms of capability. A 5K rated hydraulic winch will pull 5K when the pressure relief valves are set properly, a 5K rated PTO winch will pull 5K with the correct shear pin. They SEEM different because of the smoothness of the hydrailic and the lack of the roller coaster hookup effect that PTO winches have when they initially take up the slack and start the pull. Hydraulics are potentially more flexible in their mounting requirements and placenment because you can pull hydraulic hoses nearly anywhere on a vehicle, but I think hydraulic, when considered as a system, is the most expensive. Hydraulic can be run remotely with electric solenoids (my Grove folding crane on my Autocar has this, as do military HEMTT's) or you can even rig pull cables from the cab as I have done on my 1300 when I was putting new cable on my rear mounted winch. In choosing, you should really consider foremost how you think you will use your winch. If it's as a tool for moving things then hydraulic affords many advantages. PTO is a good middle ground for anything but best for recovery type uses because of it's lack of fine control. For self recovery emergency use electric is cheap and easy to incorporate into the vehicle. Power and speed are the least of your concerns, don't worry too much about power (winch rating should be near vehicle weight for recovery), snatch blocks are your friend and never be in a hurry. That's what I've learned in 30 years of winching.
 

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250GD Wolf
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OK, so all of that said: If I want a Werner where is a good place to look to source one? The usual suspects?

C.
Jim Ince has stated that he's an authorized Werner dealer. I'd also check with Sean @ Eurotruck, Scott @ EI, failing that I'd move to Merex, Hellgeth, VKcars, for mog knowledgeable dealers, and then if all else fails German ebay.
 

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U1600Ag
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Jim Ince has stated that he's an authorized Werner dealer. I'd also check with Sean @ Eurotruck, Scott @ EI, failing that I'd move to Merex, Hellgeth, VKcars, for mog knowledgeable dealers, and then if all else fails German ebay.
A.C. Price has some, sometimes. Worth asking. but in the UK
 

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'76 1300L,HE351CW,H15P Winches,Konis,Hydraulics,All Gears,10mm Plungers,Aftercooler,Lots of Littles
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Discussion Starter #16
After some looking:

Electric - $1K for the winch and another $300 to buy the steel to fab the mount and the wire to power it $300 for the batteries (deep cycle) to run it.
cost $1.6K
Cool factor 6.
Utility factor 6.

PTO - About 3-4K for the winch and and other 2K or so for PTO (used) and mounts.

Cost - $6K
Cool factor 8
Utility 7 (would be 8 but 7 due to no overdrive possible now...)

Hydro - 2-4K for the plumbling, mount, and pump with another 3-4k for the winch.
Call it $8K.
Cool factor 10
Utility 10

So it looks like it all comes down to am I going to do $6-7K more worth of work with a Hydraulic winch than an Electric. As bad as I want to say yes, I suspect the truck is no. And if I were, I would probably be better off with a used log skidder.

I think I am leaning to the electric at this point.

C.
 

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After some looking:

Electric - $1K for the winch and another $300 to buy the steel to fab the mount and the wire to power it $300 for the batteries (deep cycle) to run it.
cost $1.6K
Cool factor 6.
Utility factor 6.

PTO - About 3-4K for the winch and and other 2K or so for PTO (used) and mounts.

Cost - $6K
Cool factor 8
Utility 7 (would be 8 but 7 due to no overdrive possible now...)

Hydro - 2-4K for the plumbling, mount, and pump with another 3-4k for the winch.
Call it $8K.
Cool factor 10
Utility 10

So it looks like it all comes down to am I going to do $6-7K more worth of work with a Hydraulic winch than an Electric. As bad as I want to say yes, I suspect the truck is no. And if I were, I would probably be better off with a used log skidder.

I think I am leaning to the electric at this point.

C.
Good rundown. If front-mounted, weight should be factored-in too, for pto and hydro.

Are you aiming for a mid-mounted 16.5 superwinch ?

That is in my to do list too.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Honestly these warn 18K electrics are all over the place used. Seem to have a devoted following and for $500/ea, I might just get one for each end!

I was looking at the 16.5K SW, but the Warn's look like the deal.

Anyone used one?

C.
 

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Non MB 1975 Volvo C304, 1958 Kramer U540, 1959 unimog Westfalia 411
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I have the 15K that cost $1500 two years ago I have used it twice for recovery and it pulls my 406 buried to the battery box on 46' tires like a shopping cart.
 

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Honestly these warn 18K electrics are all over the place used. Seem to have a devoted following and for $500/ea, I might just get one for each end!

I was looking at the 16.5K SW, but the Warn's look like the deal.

Anyone used one?

C.
Warn it will be then. Are you going for synthetic line a la Amsteel Blue ?

Could synthetic be used in a mid-mounted application ? Im thinking that since a section of the line is always exposed to the elements, out of the spool, under the truck, it might not be good on the fibers. Then again, what do I know about anything ?
 
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