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Been searching the forum for a guide on 126 seat removal with pics or good directions but haven't found one. Does it exist?
 

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1987 420 SEL
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Peach Parts Wiki has one that is OK, but its not hard to do. I pulled both of mine yesterday to do the pool noodle trick because I heard a spring break on the driver's side seat. Anyway, if you have the power seats, remove the back seat bottom first. You will need the room to work I promise. If you have the power reclining rear seat, look for a bolt on each side of the bottom of the cushion. There is a washered nut on the back side that you can put your finger on if the seat is out far enough. Once you remove the bolts, push down on the front edge of the cushion while pulling the cushion toward the front of the car. You might even have to put your hands between the cushion and the seat back to pop it loose. Once that if out of the way, start with the drivers seat. Run the seat all the way forward, and undo the bolts at the floor at the rear of the seat frame. Don't try to unbolt the seat from the track. You might have to use a universal joint on your socket to get the bolts out. Remove the cover from the seat belt track and remove the bolt. Note the orientation of the washer on the back side... it is important to replace it the same way so the track will move properly with the seat.

Now that the rear bolts are out, run the seat all the way back. Remove the plastic covers over the front bolts and remove. There is a carpet cover wrapped underneath the seat frame between the frame and the floor. Undo it to expose the plugs to the seat motor assembly. On the very bottom there is a two pronged plug... squeeze the sides of the plug to remove it first. There are three more plugs on the top. Remove the large one first, carefully prying up on it with a small screwdriver. There should be a wire tie around the harness, just cut it off. Once the big plug is free, pry the other two out trying not to damage the sockets holding the wires in. The harness to these plugs is held in place under a retainer next to the large plug. Just pull them free.

If you have anybody around to help, now is the time to enlist their aid in getting the seat out of the car. Lay it back slightly, then remove through the rear door opening. Remember the seat belt track too, as it will get in your way... Just slide it forward as far as you can and hold it in place while muscling the seat out.

Once you have the seat out, it is pretty simple to disassemble and clean up. If you want to put in the pool noodles to firm up the seat bottom, have your helper push down on the bottom around the edges while you remove the upholstery retainer from the groove around the bottom of the frame. This will allow you access to the springs from the front of the seat. Buy the 2 1/2" noodles from Wally World or wherever is convenient to you (about a buck or so). You will see the slat springs that are kind of hinged from the edge of the sides of the frame. Cut a noodle to length from the rear to almost the front and stuff the noodle into the wedge of spring slats where they connect to each other. Use a couple zip ties to hold them in place. Then cut a noodle almost the same height as the coil springs in the front. Stuff this piece into the spring coils, so the noodle ends up inside the spring coils. It looks impossible at first but you will figure it out... just hard on the hands.

If you have any broken spring slats, you can repair them with a piece of 1/4" steel brake line tubing. Just cut to length and bend as needed to splice the broken section back together. If the break is in a bend in the spring, cut out the bent section of spring and duplicate the bend with the appropriate length of tubing. Use the longest piece of tubing you can to keep it together, because you can't weld the spring back. I used a couple of 1/4" cable clamps to hold the tubing to the spring.

The results on the drivers side seat was so good, I pulled the passenger seat and repaired it too. It is like driving a different car! While the seats were out I cleaned up the carpets and console where it could never be reached with the seats installed. I'm also up 88 cents in lost change. You can also remove the metal carpet retainers from the rear seat bolt mounts and clean them up... give them a shot of spray paint while you're at it.

Installation is in reverse of removal. Don't forget to plug the two prong plug back in before bolting the seat back in place. I think it is the seat belt light / buzzer wire and is only on the drivers side. Also install the two small top plugs first before the large one and remember to clip the harness back into the retainer. Put a new zip tie on the harness so the wires don't get tangled in the seat frame.

I hope this helps you on your project. There is a lot of great information on this forum and many helpful members. By the way if your rear power seat is not working like it should, just click on my screen name, statistics, and look up the post on the repair I did a couple of weeks ago.
 

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1983 380SEL
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Been searching the forum for a guide on 126 seat removal with pics or good directions but haven't found one. Does it exist?
From the Service Manual:
 

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1983 380SL, 2000 S430, 1991 420SEL (retired) - RHD
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5,259 Posts
Thanks for that TD51 I'll be keeping your post for later. Your instructions are just what I needed (even though I have the manual).
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Excellent

Thank you as well, that was what I needed. I think it's a week or two off before I pull out the seat to fix a spring. If you use the break line idea, what do you think about using JB Weld inside the brake line piece?

Does the brake line fix simply exist in a "floating" kind of state? I don't have an electric backseat but am concerned that the front seat will be hard to get out. My driver side back door has a frozen "latch" or whatever the term is. It doesn't open all the way and might make it hard to get out. We'll see. Do you think I can get a seat out, spring fixed and back in in 3 hours?
 

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1989 420 SEL
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79 Posts
s1w: You can pull the pin on your broken door check on the back door to get it to open wider. They are relatively cheap and easy to swap out so there's little reason to hold off on that repair.

I replaced my driver's side spring box last fall and it was fairly straight forward. Beware of your older plastic trim pieces! They will be very brittle. Patience and a gentle hand are required. Needless to say I broke the hell out of mine.
 

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1987 420 SEL
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Thank you as well, that was what I needed. I think it's a week or two off before I pull out the seat to fix a spring. If you use the break line idea, what do you think about using JB Weld inside the brake line piece?

Does the brake line fix simply exist in a "floating" kind of state? I don't have an electric backseat but am concerned that the front seat will be hard to get out. My driver side back door has a frozen "latch" or whatever the term is. It doesn't open all the way and might make it hard to get out. We'll see. Do you think I can get a seat out, spring fixed and back in in 3 hours?
The brake line repair on the spring would probably not hold well with just JB weld. Go to the hardware store or any of the big box home improvement place and get the cable clamps. They kind of look like a small muffler clamp, with a v-shaped base and u-bolt that would be used to secure steel rope cable. The v-shape of the clamp cinches down hard on the tubing, crimping it in place on the spring wire. I agree with AJ that you can undo the pin on the door check strap and replace it once the door is open. You should be able to get one at the junkyard if you have one close. As far as your 3 hour time limit, it depends on how much clean up or restoration you want to accomplish. I started at around 7:30 AM and worked pretty steady up until 3:30. But in that time, I did both seats, scrubbed the carpets, cleaned and conditioned all the leather inside and put it all back. If you have some help, you can probably get the one seat out, repaired and back in the car in 3 hours. Good luck!
 

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1983-2007 MB's
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I'm looking for guides on separating the power seat motor bases from the seats themselves. And whether it can be done without the motor base plugged in. If I have to connect up a 12V power source to do it, I suppose I could jerryrig something. But for the love of Glory, where's the bolts that separate the seat from the motor base??!
 

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1974 450 SEL Champagne Beige Metallic(Sold); 1986 560 SEL Champagne Metallic
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Separate the Seat Motor Base under the seat

Bondavi,
If I remember right from when I pulled my driver's seat, the hardware holding the motor assembly is under the seat cushion facing up. So that makes it almost impossible to reach while the seat is still inside the car. I did not get it loose until I had the whole seat out. If you are having issues with movement on a certain section, I found that the motor rotational power is transferred to the various gearboxes by lengths of square speedometer cable in those black plastic tubes. The plastic is pressed into the ferrels at each end and a small triangular dimple of the ferrel is punched down into the plastic to hold the ferrel in place. If that drive cable section gets a little strain or over-torque on the cable, the plastic will be forced back out of the ferrel and that gear drive will cease to work until it is reseated. Trust me, I know! Easy to repair the drive cable, just a real pain to get down to it!

It is like: I will hold the light bulb and you turn the ladder so I can change it in the chandelier! Ha!:wink

By the way, while you have the seat out, put a couple 5" sections of small pool noddles in each front corner of the seat springs and restore the seat firmness to original!

Good Luck,

Ron
 

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87 Euro500HVSEC. 88 Euro 560HVSEC. 89 Euro 560HVSEL
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I can pull coupe front seats out in about 20mins flat each one now that i have done it so many times.
The main procedure is to start with the seat full forward and raised to access the 2 rear 10mm bolts and also undo the seat belt anchor to the trans tunnel at the rear of the seat. The trim cover slides forward to release (not out or you will break the clips)

Then move the seat full backwards up raised front full upwards - then you can slide the trim covers forward and up to release them to reveal the 2 bolts.
Then the carpet trim cover that hides the switches has to be released by unclipping the 2 small springs that hook over the cross bar underneath (just use you hand to do that) and then the carpet cover can pull forwards and out to unhook from the lower bar that the front of the carpet roll edge is tucked up under.
This will reveal the plug connectors
I disconnect the battery here to avoid any shorting and use a flat blade screwdriver to assist releasing the plug connectors as they are usually tight to raise up - get the blade under the plug to assist ease it up.
Use long nosed pliers to squeeze the plug connector for the seatbelt sensor as it is down lower almost hidden under the rest of the wiring and the seat heater connectors if you have heated seats.
Also the vacuum hose needs unplugging.
It helps to lay some padding of foam or blanket over the door opening to avoid scratching the lower trim
I fold the seat back forwards into the compressed position and grab the seat by the inner side edge and the near front edge and virtually lift it out using my knees to balance the seat and carefully extract it and once out with it balanced on my knees i walk it out and ease it down on to ground.
I do the same and use my knees to balance the seat and literally walk it back into the car very carefully.
If you are not strong or confident then best have two people to remove the seat with one in the car assisting from the other side.
 

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I'm looking for guides on separating the power seat motor bases from the seats themselves. And whether it can be done without the motor base plugged in. If I have to connect up a 12V power source to do it, I suppose I could jerryrig something. But for the love of Glory, where's the bolts that separate the seat from the motor base??!


You have to take out the seat first.

.
 

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1983-2007 MB's
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I have the seats all out of the car, I just have to swap motor bases with an non-memory Euro and a memory USA motor base - both have different wire hookups.

Hence, I have Recaros on USA motor bases which I want to swap with the euro motor bases.

Where are the bolts that attach the motor bases to the actual seat itself? And do I have to move the seat forward or backward on the rails in order to access said bolts? 4 of them or 6?
 

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2012 CL550 4MATIC Coupe
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There are 6 bolts. See the holes in the frame? When I did my Recaros, that's when we did the re mount. Rocklord has them now.
 

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1989 560sec gen2 euro AMG
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There are 6 bolts. See the holes in the frame? When I did my Recaros, that's when we did the re mount. Rocklord has them now.
If I remember correctly it was (6) 10mm bolts that went from stock seat rail to the Recaro bracket then the R bracket to the seats. All done outside the car. I will take some pics if it may help?

R
 

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2012 CL550 4MATIC Coupe
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If I remember correctly it was (6) 10mm bolts that went from stock seat rail to the Recaro bracket then the R bracket to the seats. All done outside the car. I will take some pics if it may help?

R
Correct!
 

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68 250S, 91 300se, 98 SL500, 450SEL 6.9, 14 CLS550 Past MB's; 300SD, 300E, 300TE, 190E, ML420
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If you plan on removing the headrests, do it first before anything else while you have power. tilt seat back, raise headrests all the way up. in the middle of the back of seat you will feel an indentation. press hard and then you can pull the headrests up and out. the HR must be ALL the way up to do this.

removing them will also give you a little more room to maneuver the seats out, they are large, heavy and awkward.
 

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1983-2007 MB's
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Thanks mclare and Rocklord.

I have to move the seat using the motor in order to access all 6 bolts, using a jerryrig to a 12v power source, sounds like...
 

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An old 9-18V drill battery works a charm with alligator clips.

I'm glad someone remembered how many bolts, my memory's shit. :)
 

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1989 300SE EURO
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While the seats were out I cleaned up the carpets and console where it could never be reached with the seats installed. I'm also up 88 cents in lost change. You can also remove the metal carpet retainers from the rear seat bolt mounts and clean them up... give them a shot of spray paint while you're at it.
I just removed mine as the gunk under the seat bothered me. Pretty disgisting what comes out of there if it hasn't been cleaned for some time.

The metal carpet retainers really surprise me every time I see them. Not clear why they didn't spend more attention to detail and painted them (probably to much effort for every possible carlet color....). I'll do this now and how it cleans up the look. My carpet is black, so no big issue to color-match.
 

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1990 SEC
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Very useful tip.

If you plan on removing the headrests, do it first before anything else while you have power. tilt seat back, raise headrests all the way up. in the middle of the back of seat you will feel an indentation. press hard and then you can pull the headrests up and out. the HR must be ALL the way up to do this.

removing them will also give you a little more room to maneuver the seats out, they are large, heavy and awkward.
I didn't do this until about the 3rd (or 4th?) time I wrestled my seats out of the car. It was one of those "aha" moments and "you're such and idiot. Why didn't you do this before?".

As Kim stated in an earlier post, these seats are heavy and needs to be removed carefully to avoid any damage to the seats or the car.
 
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