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Picked this 1250V, which is the predecessor to the 1650. With the heavy duty 8 lug, 2 piece axles with the large portals and 4 piston brakes. Has the heavy split rims, 24 speed transmission, 2 speed PTO's, hydraulics everywhere! Even has the data card still in the glove box! First one I have ever seen still in the truck. Came with a Schmidt 5.4 plow as well. Has 14.00x20 tires on it now, but came with 4 new correct size 12.4R20 tires. With the big tires on it makes my 416's look small!
If anyone is interested in it "as is" and wants to make me an offer, please do! Will give a heck of a deal, if I don't have to do all the work it will need to be up to my standards.
 

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Looks like a very capable machine. That plow could use some love though. Mind as well chuck it on Scott's pile and refurb them all at once.
 

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Looks like a very capable machine. That plow could use some love though. Mind as well chuck it on Scott's pile and refurb them all at once.
Well the plow got a little bent up when they drove the truck thru a house. The guy driving it stepped on the exhaust brake while it was in neutral, panicked when it would not stop, so swerved and into the house! Broke the house up, bent the plow, but all is good.
 

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I feel like this truck has been here before as I recall a previous member having a story about how they "drove through a house", same truck?
 

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I made that exhaust brake mistake when the overdrive went to neutral during a shift, on a steep hill and curve on the Blue Ridge Parkway. That will wake you up when the music stops and the steering wheel goes dead.
 

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The overdrive finding neutral is an attention getter.

Going from compression braking to freewheeling, just when you were downshifting for more braking, is a drill for sure. It does not happen very often, fortunately, but you get pretty quick at stabbing the clutch in hope of finding something.
 

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Any idea why the OD inadvertently goes into neutral? I have had our Claas do the same and wondering if anyone has discovered the root cause.
 

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That seems to sum it up, it just happens.
 

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In my case, I have attributed it to two things :

1. 'Lazy Leg' clutch work. This is just not pushing the clutch pedal far enough to fully actuate the button on the solenoid. Since the clutch will work and allow for shifting without actually being floored, when driving along for the course of a day, I think that I sometimes push the clutch pedal far enough to tap the button, which is enough to find neutral, but not enough to complete the shift.

In my experience, I only find neutral when shifting while also shifting the Claas OD, either up or down. During regular shifting, which does not involve a range change on the OD, it always works as normal.

The reason that I think that the 'Lazy Leg' is the culprit is because I can always avoid the issue if I concentrate on flooring the clutch and making good contact. The clutch pedal is fairly stiff, so I think it is normal to tend to short stroke it, which can lead to an incomplete OD shift, which leaves you in neutral.

I never have the problem if I think about the clutch action - therefore : Pilot Error.

This is the main cause, in my case.

2. On my truck (yellow box / arrow), I don't have the little pad welded to the clutch arm which is specifically added to insure that the arm hits the button. My Green truck had the pad, my new truck does not. It is on the list....

I found neutral on the OD with the green truck, so the pad won't overcome Lazy Leg, but it does make sure the clutch arm hits the button on a full stroke.

I have found that without the pad, I can push the clutch in a way that the arm flexes, and the slim target of the button, combined with the narrow edge of the clutch arm, allows for a glancing blow, which works the same as the lazy Leg - enough contact to hit the button, but not enough to complete the shift. If I don't push the clutch at an angle, it does not flex, and does not miss the button dead center, and all is good.

So, the obvious answer for this problem is to add the pad.

Both of my Class OD's were installed by Hellgeth, but the installation on the green truck was years after the installation on the current truck. In the Hellgeth Instruction sheet, they show the installation of the pad as part of the deal. I think that experience showed them that the clutch arm was just too slim to be a reliable actuator, so they modified their approach, and added the little pad.

Scott at EI mentioned a mechanical problem related to this, which involved crud in a valve body or something , which is externally mounted on the Claas unit, and easy to address. His input is included in a thread on this here somewhere.

I have not had any problem with that part of the system.

Oh, the wad of wires hanging out from behind the black panel are normally all stowed and zip-tied securely in place. I was working on the Voltmeters, and that panel was in and out a few times that day. I would not drive around with it
as it appears in the photo, with the three stainless screws backed out, etc.
 

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