[Iain_Unimog]

I'd put something soild under the rear axle, lots of lever arm on the shock mounts and panhard rod if something slips and the whole torque tube drops. Getting the LH shock top shock bolts out is a bit of a mission if you don't tilt the cab on a U1250, but can be done, just did mine by cutting the bolt off and replacing it.

What the shims on the torque tube, so you don't lose any or mix them up, getting the right shims correct when refitting the torque tube requires a special tool from MB. Not sure if you have the U1250 workshop manual, let me know if you want the Transmission part.

 

[NhBen]

I do have the manual but haven't looked at the installation section yet. Thanks for the heads up, I will read through that before I get any deeper into it.

 

[NhBen]

After a few hours of fighting I got the front torque tube disconnected from the transfer case. I ended up having to cut the heads off the bolts to remove it. Once the transmission is removed I should be able to remove the remaining part of the bolt.

 

[NhBen]

And I bought a nut splitter, so hopefully that will make the removal of the working gears easier. I had to but it to use removing the forward reverse linkage

 

[tmodler]

Highly recommend you get some KROIL penetrating oil involved. It really works.

C.

 

[NhBen]

I have a big supply of pbblaster, do you like the kroil better?

 

[NhBen]

The issue here was there was no head left to the bolts, they were rounded right off like a carrage bolt. I was going going to start welding nuts onto the old bolts under the truck, but figured if ots going to be out on the bench, it makes more sense to deal with it after.

 

[tmodler]

Cutting those makes sense to me. I had to cut break a number of the 8mm bolts in the working gear disassembly as I recall.

Yes, most everything that Kano labs makes I have had good success with. But particularly Kroil. They also make Weatherproof which is a great product too, imo.

C.

 

[NhBen]

I have never come across their products in our local stores. I will see what Amazon has to offer.

Thanks

 

[Britbike2001]

Ben, when faced with a stubborn fastener I alternate applications of PB then Kroil, PB then Kroil, etc.. Could be fooling myself but I think the blend works well. Each seems to have a different ...............charactoristic to it. I don't know how they differ but they do. I must admit I keep using PB just because that was the go to on the farm when growing up. We were not all sophisticated an knowledgeable about things like Kroil. I like Kroil now that I'm in the know.

I get Kroil right from my local O'Reilly Auto Parts. They are the only ones I've found that have it locally. Not sure if you have O'Reillys in your neck of the woods. Amazon though, is the go to if local won't work.

 

[Oskar]

Ben, when faced with a stubborn fastener I alternate applications of PB then Kroil, PB then Kroil, etc.. Could be fooling myself but I think the blend works well. Each seems to have a different ...............charactoristic to it. I don't know how they differ but they do. I must admit I keep using PB just because that was the go to on the farm when growing up. We were not all sophisticated an knowledgeable about things like Kroil. I like Kroil now that I'm in the know.

I get Kroil right from my local O'Reilly Auto Parts. They are the only ones I've found that have it locally. Not sure if you have O'Reillys in your neck of the woods. Amazon though, is the go to if local won't work.

they have a online store as well: Penetrating-Lubricating Oils

 

[NhBen]

We just got an O'Reillys a few years ago.

I will check and see what they have!

 

[photobldr]

Removing Rusted Bolts

Being data driven, and of a somewhat scientific methodological bent, I went looking for data. Scored some:

First up are induction heaters. New one on me. Price tag not for the faint of heart.

Another very interesting take on the subject, but more focused/ specific application:

And now, for the data-savy:

I could be mean and make everyone watch the whole thing, and it is worthwhile, but this screenshot captures the essence:

Then, the tester did another round:

Again, the synopsis:

I trust this will get everyone agitated. I found it quite entertaining. And I will probably forgo my own current allegiance to PB Blaster. I had it right the first time 20 years ago.

Lee

 

[TRUKTOR]

Great information- thanks for digging it up and posting it. I like the guy’s methodology.

I have never found WD-40 (standard issue)
To work anywhere near as well as PB blaster, and yet .... the chart.

Hey let the chips fall where they may.

My friend and climbing equipment manufacturer / inventor Russ Anderson dismisses WD-40 as ‘Diesel Oil and Perfume.’
He is 90, and still in his machine shop nearly every day. He has been a machinist for probably 65-70 years at this point. We all have our opinions....and I’m not saying he knows all - just a friend with skills and a bone dry wit.

I’ll keep reaching for the PB before the WD.
Just Hard-Headed I guess.

Thanks again for doing the work.

 

[TRUKTOR]

Oh, and reacting to the ‘3 hours is not a realistic test’ angle.

Well, in a shop that is dealing with the flat rate book and volume business, then 3 hours of dosing the parts might be outside of the norm. I don’t think it has to be, however, just dose tomorrow’s cars before you close up for the night, for example.

For the UNIMOG owner ( or anybody) working at home on a project with rusty fasteners, I would not rule out 3 or 4 days
of applications.

The stuff is relatively cheap, and saturating the fasteners over a longer timespan gives the chemicals longer to work and to penetrate deeper.

If I know I’m going to be taking something apart, on whatever piece of machinery, the first thing I do is dose it with the goop. I know that it may be a week before I’m going to get to it, and waiting on parts, or doing research, or asking for help here or somewhere may delay the process, but in the meantime, I figure I might as well drown the fasteners, relatively speaking.

It seems to work for me.

 

[NhBen]

That is great information. I am surprised as well about wd40. We have never had much luck with it freeing up anything.

My struggle with bolts continues. The 6 bolts holding the transfer case to the mounts are not giving up.

I have removed 2 of the 6. The first using our 1" drive impact wrench

The remaining 5 dont have enough head to get a socket onto for enough to spin them out.

I cut out the spacer block between the transfer case and the plate of steel. This relieved enough tension that the second bolt came out easily.

Tomorrow I will try to cut out the spacer block on the bottom row of bolts and see if that gets any more of the bolts moving.

If that doesn't work I will cut the bolts and deal with them on the bench, or weld a nut to the head of the bolt and hope that will hold well enough to get the bolts out with an impact wrench

 

[brianbills]

I’m a kroil guy. 1941 Caddy model 62 convertible rusted so bad the rear fenders were leaded on. Kroil for 3 weeks on every bolt and screw not including engine and I broke one screw, which was a wood screw into wood. Time is your friend. Next best is as was shown cutting through the nut. It gives enough flex to break free.

 

[Chas Stricker]

Heat is amazing, if you can get it in there and not burn it down. It seems the swelling of the bolt and then the contraction breaks it free. Sometimes its just too difficult to get the map gas close.
Chas

 

[NhBen]

I have been switching between mapp and oxy/propane, and having some luck with that

 

[drembedded]

Fanning the flames of the Kroil versus pbblaster debate.... Kroil everyday of the week and twice on Sunday