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'76 1300L,HE351CW,H15P Winches,Konis,Hydraulics,All Gears,10mm Plungers,Aftercooler,Lots of Littles
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Possibly also the axle type.

C.
 

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1250v
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Discussion Starter #83
I wondered if it had anything to do with the heavy axle set up
 

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'76 1300L,HE351CW,H15P Winches,Konis,Hydraulics,All Gears,10mm Plungers,Aftercooler,Lots of Littles
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They all have the same WB, Axles, and overhang From what I have seen. Makes a good looking truck, and and narrow frame is a plus (IMO).

C.
 

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Discussion Starter #85
What do you like better about the narrow frame?

Not having any experience with any other mog I know nothing about any of them.
 

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'76 1300L,HE351CW,H15P Winches,Konis,Hydraulics,All Gears,10mm Plungers,Aftercooler,Lots of Littles
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I think they are a mixed bag, really, but they ride better.

Bad: Engine and transmission service access is reduced.

Good: the torque exerted on the frame is higher (narrow frame), so it flexes better with low loads (typical use).

And I think the typical narrow axles look better with drum brake wheels than most other setups, though the ones you have are much better, functionally.

C.
 
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1991 1250L Doka Unimog, 2002 ML320
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Narrow is better when wheeling in trees and magnetic rocks. Wider is more stable......eeny meany miney......
 

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Discussion Starter #88
A few more pictures.

2669587


Removed the cab support, broke off 3 of the 4 bolts

I changed my plans a little, I think im going to drop the transmission down onto the floor instead of lifting it out, so rear pto shaft can stay.

I got the rear torque tube detached from the transfer case
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Discussion Starter #89
Are there parts i should be replacing just because I have this apart?

Both torque tube boots are cracked so I know I need those.

The white nylon pieces inside the joint look to be in good shape.

Im going to change both output seals once the transmission is out.

Any advice would be a big help

Thanks
 

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'76 1300L,HE351CW,H15P Winches,Konis,Hydraulics,All Gears,10mm Plungers,Aftercooler,Lots of Littles
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I would take a look at the synchro rings to evaluate the overall wear before I bought any bits, and you may find that the 3rd gear synchro is toast also.

Otherwise, just the seals. Input seal too.

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250GD Wolf
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I believe the shock replacement is a bit more challenging with the narrow frame is it not (someone correct me if I'm wrong)
 

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Discussion Starter #92
More good news! Thats also on my list, but transmission seems to be a higher priority! Haha
 

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'91 U1250 '02 U500NA
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I believe the shock replacement is a bit more challenging with the narrow frame is it not (someone correct me if I'm wrong)
On the front ones lifting the cab makes big difference, especially on driver's side.
 

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'76 1300L,HE351CW,H15P Winches,Konis,Hydraulics,All Gears,10mm Plungers,Aftercooler,Lots of Littles
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Also it may not come out “naturally” when you unbolt the mounts. Some of them are tight between the rails. Mine was.

Make sure you R&R the pivoting mount locations, these may need seals also.

C.
 

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Discussion Starter #95
Thank you, mine look very rusty, so I expect they will need some attention.
 

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Discussion Starter #96
I have the bolts out of the driveshaft, is there a slip joint inside the torque tube?

Or do I need to pull the entire axle back an inch to get the clearance I need to drop the transmission?

2669913
 

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'76 1300L,HE351CW,H15P Winches,Konis,Hydraulics,All Gears,10mm Plungers,Aftercooler,Lots of Littles
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The U-joint flange will move back some (slip join is in the rear at the inlet to the pumpkin), you may need to pull the axle rearward 1/2” or so as I recall to make it easier.

C.
 

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Discussion Starter #98
Thank you, I didnt want to start prying to hard until I knew what was there.

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Discussion Starter #100
I did get it to slide back a little bit. I will put a chain and binder on it tomorrow and drag it back the rest of the way.

Thanks
 
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